What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (72 Viewers)

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New kicks for the 80....
37x12.5r17s Patagonia M/Ts on 17" FJ Cruiser Steelies

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Another COVID project completed. I took the opportunity to strip my @TRAIL TAILOR roofrack, make a few mods and completely redo all the wiring.
After a little solar panel testing i realized that the bars of the rack were reducing my solar output by almost 40%.
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So i worked with @cruisermatt To come up with a simple design that allowed me remove bars for normal use and add them quickly when needed.

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I also got him to build a support structure for my KC spot lights. The one i did previously vibrated so badly it had to go. The quality of his work and the welds are exceptional.

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I redid all the wiring using marine grade copper, blue seas connectors and stainless steel everything.

Very happy with the final product. All i need to do is get it back on the roof of the truck..

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Went to Hollister Hills OHV and found that the Bay Area group was out there today as well.
My family had a great time out.

Found a weak link...got hung up on the rear bumper on a few obstacles so I might remove the rear cross-member and tuck the bumper in a bit more.

Also, I had fuel coming out from the fuel hose filler neck somewhere on some steep inclines. I’m pretty sure it’s not suppose to do that.

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Another COVID project completed. I took the opportunity to strip my @TRAIL TAILOR roofrack, make a few mods and completely redo all the wiring.
After a little solar panel testing i realized that the bars of the rack were reducing my solar output by almost 40%.
View attachment 2345760

So i worked with @cruisermatt To come up with a simple design that allowed me remove bars for normal use and add them quickly when needed.

View attachment 2345761

I also got him to build a support structure for my KC spot lights. The one i did previously vibrated so badly it had to go. The quality of his work and the welds are exceptional.

View attachment 2345765

I redid all the wiring using marine grade copper, blue seas connectors and stainless steel everything.

Very happy with the final product. All i need to do is get it back on the roof of the truck..

View attachment 2345769
Got lights?
 
I had an intermittent clink or tink. Not a clank, clunk, thud or tick (searching with descriptive words for a noise is an interesting undertaking). I first tried pumping about a half pound of grease into each of the knuckles with a 150ml hypodermic (they looked dry from underneath and still do). That didn't fix it. So I bought a grease gun with a flexible hose and a couple 14 Oz tubes of Sta Lube grease at Harbor Freight and set out to pump some grease into the u joints and drive shafts. Of course, on the rear drive shaft the zerks for the u joints were on the "inside" where I couldn't get the grease gun fitting on them. Some time ago I ordered the Lucas 5803 needle based on an old post by Tools R Us. Rummaged around in the garage and found it! Put that on the gun and voila, was able to pump some grease into those zerks. I just put a couple pumps in the zerks on the drive shafts because I'm paranoid of overgreasing them, but put enough pumps in the u joints till grease came oozing out one side. Not very technical compared to the work going on by others here, but my noise is gone and I'm happy.
 
What did you do with your 80 this weekend: maintenance, fix, wheel, nothing, new mod??

Yanked the old Fuel Tank that was leaking.
Removed the old fuel straps EXCEPT for the short front one, that bumps into the frame before the bolt will come out.
Amazingly even with all the rust on the tank, the body is pristine, so prepped and coated with Truck Bed Liner.
Started removing Body Mount Bolts on left side HOPING, I can just lift the left side a few inches of the frame to get the Strap Bolt out.
Reinstalled the Fuel Pump Assembly into new tank.
Realized I really new a new fuel filler neck... :-(. Which from what I have read here says it requires body off as well.

Waiting for Fuel Cut Off Valve part to come in. I think it works, but I don't want to have to drop this tank again!

Wire wheeled off a lot of loose rust and coated with Easton Rust Converter. Waiting to cure so I can prime and paint with Chassis paint

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@kenscs
Should be no need to lift the body from frame. Have dropped tanks more times than I care to remember and never had an issue. Finally learned it was worth the time to pull the read drive shaft to make more room to get the tank out though it’s possible with it in place.
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Another COVID project completed. I took the opportunity to strip my @TRAIL TAILOR roofrack, make a few mods and completely redo all the wiring.
After a little solar panel testing i realized that the bars of the rack were reducing my solar output by almost 40%.
View attachment 2345760

So i worked with @cruisermatt To come up with a simple design that allowed me remove bars for normal use and add them quickly when needed.

View attachment 2345761

I also got him to build a support structure for my KC spot lights. The one i did previously vibrated so badly it had to go. The quality of his work and the welds are exceptional.

View attachment 2345765

I redid all the wiring using marine grade copper, blue seas connectors and stainless steel everything.

Very happy with the final product. All i need to do is get it back on the roof of the truck..

View attachment 2345769

Looks cool! Post up some pics when it’s on the rig!
 
Decided to finish cleaning up and painting the stock wheels. I'm amazed by how much of a difference it made to the overall look! It took me around 7 hours to sandblast (HF #110lb blaster) prep, paint, and reinstall all 4 wheels. Full rattle can job and only around $50 in materials including sand, paint, and clear.

After that was finished, I spruced up the grill and light trim to get rid of the peeling chrome.

Before:
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Showing sandblasted vs old and pitted wheel:
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Finished product:
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Been drooling over the dual bypass Slinky Stage5 shocks since I saw photos of them on one of Darren McRae's Aussie trucks a few years ago when I started researching the kits. Well, now four years later I'm finally getting some. I haven't received the rear shocks yet but the front ones were delivered this past week and I got them installed yesterday. Only driven a few miles on them so far so no real impressions of the difference between these and the Stage 4's they are replacing. But I'm excited to be able to tune the rebound in addition to the compression that's a bit more common.
Since I know someone is going to ask, the Stage 4 shocks that are coming off the truck are already spoken for.
Stage5 Slinky by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Stage5 Slinky by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Here's a stage5 on the left and a stage 4 on the right. Same 2.5 body with remote reservoir, similar valve setup and internal hydro bump zone. But the stage 4 shock has Icon's CDCV compression control adjuster on the remote reservoir. The Stage 5 does not have an adjuster on the reservoir but has both the rebound and compression adjusters on the end of the bypass tubes.
Stage5 Slinky by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

I also had a bushing on one of the radius arms going bad so I swapped out the arms with a spare set I have had that were in decent shape. Before I put them in, I did a bit of clearancing of the eyes to give just a little more flex before the arms bind against the axle brackets.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
Went to Coyote Lake in the Sierras, The trail in was a blast got try out my new 39s they worked great was very happy with the way they just roll over the big rocks
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