Sunday was bumper day. Finally got this welded up and painted. Been sat in my garage for at least a year. Petty happy with the end result. Now just need to procure a winch.
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I had a red top optima in my cruiser for three years and then transferred it to my sons truck two years ago. He is in Flag so not dealing with the heat of the valley. None the less, after 5 years it is still going strong. I can't complain too much.I haven't driven mine in a while and the starting battery was dead, 9V. I jumped it using the house battery 12.6V. Now it is in the driveway and I am using my NOCO trickle charger to hopefully bring the starting battery back to life.
The house battery is a Marine/RV 34M-AGM battery from work (Interstate) that I got for free as it was warranty battery that was tested good after 24 hours on the charger and then load tested for cranking amps. The starting battery is a Interstate MTZ-34R used as well but isn't holding a charge, I think I am going to swap it out for a new Optima 34R.
I am fully aware that the standard factory 80 AMP alternator is not able to properly charge an AGM type battery but I am planning on using the @Delta VS Alternator Upgrade Kit to move up to the Tundra 150 AMP alternator.
The Optima batteries have done pretty well for me. Via the internet I have heard/read stories about the Optima quality but I have a Optima 34DM that was my house battery prior to the current battery and it is holding at 12.5V and earns it way by being used for inflating bicycle tire and car tires.
What makes it so that an alternator is unable to charge an AGM battery? AGM is still lead acid, perhaps you are thinking of a lithium iron phosphate battery?I am fully aware that the standard factory 80 AMP alternator is not able to properly charge an AGM type battery
Typical life expectancy here in the desert is about 2 years. The heat eats them like candy.What makes it so that an alternator is unable to charge an AGM battery? AGM is still lead acid, perhaps you are thinking of a lithium iron phosphate battery?
FWIW I installed a basic Duracell battery from batteries plus in 2018 and it's been fine ever since (kept in the garage at mild temperatures between 45-75F). Down in AZ I suspect that the heat is killing your batteries faster.
AZ heat is known to kill batteries. The milder climate of the PNW is a lot more battery friendly.What makes it so that an alternator is unable to charge an AGM battery? AGM is still lead acid, perhaps you are thinking of a lithium iron phosphate battery?
FWIW I installed a basic Duracell battery from batteries plus in 2018 and it's been fine ever since (kept in the garage at mild temperatures between 45-75F). Down in AZ I suspect that the heat is killing your batteries faster.
The nice thing is that they were free batteries.Typical life expectancy here in the desert is about 2 years. The heat eats them like candy.
I run a AMG Odyssey extreme with the stock 80 amp alternator, it's now over 5 years old.I am fully aware that the standard factory 80 AMP alternator is not able to properly charge an AGM type battery but I am planning on using the @Delta VS Alternator Upgrade Kit to move up to the Tundra 150 AMP alternator
I might have a draw on the system then. I did do the window fix where the LC doesn't have to be on to roll windows up/down.I run a AMG Odyssey extreme with the stock 80 amp alternator, it's now over 5 years old.
It pulls starting, winching, lighting, on board air and ARB fridge duty, Then sometimes setting for over a month at a time and still always starts the rig.
I have sat in camp for over two days before running the fridge still starts the rig, when I snapped both axle on Fordyce trail last year it did full winch pulls 100ft over and over again to get me off the trail still no issue.![]()
That's an absolutely dopey "mod" that will kill your battery. Mine came that way, and the battery wouldn't last a week. I replaced the jumper with a new relay and it's been perfect ever since.I might have a draw on the system then. I did do the window fix where the LC doesn't have to be on to roll windows up/down.
I have the relay on order from my guy at Toyota and plan on swapping it out soon.That's an absolutely dopey "mod" that will kill your battery. Mine came that way, and the battery wouldn't last a week. I replaced the jumper with a new relay and it's been perfect ever since.
EDIT: Because I had no idea I had the "mod", I found it by going through the huge PITA procedure for parasitic draws. It creates a draw 2X the max allowable in the manual.
I have been running a red altima agm for 1.5 years and it has worked great for me. I was never an Optima fan boy and I have used interstate batteries in all my vehicles for years. Than I finally realized AGM batteries won't get corrosion on the terminals...... Optima here I comeI haven't driven mine in a while and the starting battery was dead, 9V. I jumped it using the house battery 12.6V. Now it is in the driveway and I am using my NOCO trickle charger to hopefully bring the starting battery back to life.
The house battery is a Marine/RV 34M-AGM battery from work (Interstate) that I got for free as it was warranty battery that was tested good after 24 hours on the charger and then load tested for cranking amps. The starting battery is a Interstate MTZ-34R used as well but isn't holding a charge, I think I am going to swap it out for a new Optima 34R.
I am fully aware that the standard factory 80 AMP alternator is not able to properly charge an AGM type battery but I am planning on using the @Delta VS Alternator Upgrade Kit to move up to the Tundra 150 AMP alternator.
The Optima batteries have done pretty well for me. Via the internet I have heard/read stories about the Optima quality but I have a Optima 34DM that was my house battery prior to the current battery and it is holding at 12.5V and earns it way by being used for inflating bicycle tire and car tires.
I have a $40 Monroe replacement shock from Pep boys for whenever this happened to me with my icons. (I’m running MRA shocks as well now).I purchased a full Dobinsons MRA/VT coil suspension setup for my '97 80 Series Land Cruiser about two years ago, and it's been great. But I recently added more weight to the truck, so I wanted to turn up the low speed compression settings a couple clicks to better control body roll. I have made adjustments to the settings a couple times over the past two years, and never had any issues. I always dial back the knobs to the lowest setting and then count the clicks as I go up to the desired setting. The adjustment process went perfectly normally on three of the four MRA shocks, but when I took the fourth shock (passenger side, rear) back to the lowest setting, blue shock oil began spewing out. I think I lost a good 3-4 ounces of shock oil before I realized what was going on. As soon as I turned the knob clockwise, this stopped the flow of shock oil. The weird thing is I did not encounter any undue resistance as I was turning it down to the lowest setting, so it's not like I tried to force it past the lowest setting or anything like that. It's been about 48 hours since this happened, and I don't detect any sort of ongoing leak. Not sure what kind of damage there might be, but with the loss of oil and probably also nitrogen, I'll be sending it in to Dobinsons USA for inspection and repair. Sucks to have the Cruiser down at this time of year. The So Cal TLCA Club has some of my favorite runs this time of year. It is what it is...