What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (60 Viewers)

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@roflbox

Paint probably makes more sense in that quantity at that location and I'm not sure that the oil system would deposit that many metal flakes there if they were floating around in the oil system. The paint likely is breaking down and delaminating in the presence of oil and heat cycling and you can see it happening on that shelf in the picture. They should have masked off the inside of the oil fill hole when spray painting the VC.

I'd see about cleaning that fill hole further (shop vac plus scraper/pic perhaps?) to keep the debris out of your oiling system and I'd bump the next oil change up on the priority list a bit. You want to minimize the risk of that crap getting lodged in an oil passage.

Once you get the oil system cleaned up and then run it for a while you can send off an oil sample to Blackstone to get insight into any metal wear issues, etc. the engine may have, should you want to know :)
😅 not sure I want to know what blackstone says just after having forked out for this LX450

I was able to get most of the crap in that picture cleaned up with the mittyvac (surprisingly well) so will be doing an oil change here shortly (after I get the power steering fixed so I can pass NC inspection and get the vehicle registered / plates / blah blah)
 
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Put away for the winter. Sad… Salt roads might as well be lava.
 
is this worth
The fun continues,
Decided to replace the oil cap with the cool TEQ one.

Pulled the old one off and was greeted with this:

Looks like paint? IDK what the PO did with this, I have a mittyvac brake bleeder that has a little vacuum attachment, maybe that will be enough to pull all of that out.

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Is this worth pulling the valve cover for?
Or should I run it / do a oil change after a short drive around?
 
is this worth

Is this worth pulling the valve cover for?
Or should I run it / do a oil change after a short drive around?
Stuff a paper towel in the hole, then I would use a rag to clean out the threads.

Be careful to not push the paper towel down into the timing chain cover.

It looks like paint and won't really hurt anything. That area is not a regularly circulated area, just when you pour it in, so keep it clean or clean it every time you remove the cap.
 
hypothetically, if one wanted to prepare their 80 to drive to the inspection station (2 miles 1 way), and did not have a power steering cooler, could they run a appropriate tube from the return off the steering box to the reservoir?
 
hypothetically, if one wanted to prepare their 80 to drive to the inspection station (2 miles 1 way), and did not have a power steering cooler, could they run a appropriate tube from the return off the steering box to the reservoir?
Yeah, that shouldn't be a problem.
 
I was working on some other stuff today and had the welder out so I made myself a trophy to commemorate the recent carnage. :)
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

You went rags to ruthless, messed up toothless.

(Hat tip to Public Enemy)
 
Been helping my buddy fix his 2012 Ram 1500 5.7 hemi, come to find out they have a very common problem where a lifter goes bad and grinds against the camshaft. So put my own rebuild on the back burner to help save him $3k. Funny how after 100k miles many of these (Ram) trucks eat their camshaft, and I just had my cruiser motor rebuilt and the entire head & cams were still all in spec. 300k miles on my motor and ready for another 300k more. I already loved my cruiser but doing this job has made me just absolutely astonished at Toyota engineering and how well they did.

FYI the ground down portion should look similar to the lobe on the left. Most of the lobe had been ground down and it was almost completely circular. Sheesh.
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Been helping my buddy fix his 2012 Ram 1500 5.7 hemi, come to find out they have a very common problem where a lifter goes bad and grinds against the camshaft. So put my own rebuild on the back burner to help save him $3k. Funny how after 100k miles many of these (Ram) trucks eat their camshaft, and I just had my cruiser motor rebuilt and the entire head & cams were still all in spec. 300k miles on my motor and ready for another 300k more. I already loved my cruiser but doing this job has made me just absolutely astonished at Toyota engineering and how well they did.

FYI the ground down portion should look similar to the lobe on the left. Most of the lobe had been ground down and it was almost completely circular. Sheesh.
View attachment 2869626

It's an issue due to mds. And it's a ****ing plague.
 
Been helping my buddy fix his 2012 Ram 1500 5.7 hemi, come to find out they have a very common problem where a lifter goes bad and grinds against the camshaft. So put my own rebuild on the back burner to help save him $3k. Funny how after 100k miles many of these (Ram) trucks eat their camshaft, and I just had my cruiser motor rebuilt and the entire head & cams were still all in spec. 300k miles on my motor and ready for another 300k more. I already loved my cruiser but doing this job has made me just absolutely astonished at Toyota engineering and how well they did.

FYI the ground down portion should look similar to the lobe on the left. Most of the lobe had been ground down and it was almost completely circular. Sheesh.
View attachment 2869626
American junk. All of the big 3.
 
My thanks giving fix a thon is now bleeding into a Christmas and new years fix a thon. Decided to poke at the rust spot on the driver side rocker. Turns out, the rear seatbelt was badly rusted as well, a must check if you have not already. So… I started cutting… And cutting… then Panel beating and bending. I think is was 10ish individual parts that I ended up making and welding back in. I also reproduce half the body mount on the back side and the small structure parts inside the rocker. I think it will turn out pretty nice in the end. I will update when it’s done. I’m sure there are better ways to do this, but it’s what I came up with here. Lots of seam sealer to cover the welds in the wheel well and under the truck. If there is interest I can share more photos as well

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how many uses for one of these are there on a 80 series?
I know I will need something to press my old studs out, and if there are a good number of uses for that, might purchase it.
 
Obviously suspension bushings, that's why most of us buy one. Also good for pressing TC gears or if you find yourself rebuilding a transmission (not likely), handy for changing out u-joints (although most get by with a BFH and a vice), I've also found it useful for making/bending metal brackets and whatnot..

:edit: But you want the 20-ton version. The 12 ton doesn't have the balls to drive out particularly stuck bushings.
 
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It's an issue due to mds. And it's a f***ing plague.
Yeah I'm deleting all the MDS stuff. It was actually cheaper to go with non-MDS parts and pay some guy to program the ECU than it was to keep MDS components.
 
how many uses for one of these are there on a 80 series?
I know I will need something to press my old studs out, and if there are a good number of uses for that, might purchase it.
Get the 20 ton. You need to eventually push out the suspension bushings and a 12T won't cut it.
 
how many uses for one of these are there on a 80 series?
I know I will need something to press my old studs out, and if there are a good number of uses for that, might purchase it.

Carrier gears
Pinion gears
Suspension bushings
Smashing things that piss you off.
 

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