What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (81 Viewers)

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Began the "Quest for rust free" today.

My daughters green 80 "Kirby" lost its locker axles. They will get blasted and painted and are going under a rust free truck.
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Welp took this day to really give the cruiser some love. I've commented on a few folks threads about car paint correction/protection and some procedures to improve. Now here is my quick story and what I used (goes without saying, but find shade if you don't have a garage. If you are in the direct sunlight, paint gets hot, causes your wash job to have all the water spots and polish to glaze over before you've had a chance to even make 1 pass on a panel area). Lucky it was cloudy with my shade tree there. Been detailing cars now for going on 2 years now.
First photo shows what my canvas was to start with. Nothing crazy dirty, been using Gyeon Wetcoat as my temporary solution to keep the paint well protected for several months until now.

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Next is after a wash with Meguiars D111 Pro soap, CarPro Iron X for iron decon, Pinnacle ultra fine clay and Optimum No Rise for clay lube.
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Broke out the polisher now, Adams mini swirl killer (mostly due to the panels are not that large and gives me some good control) speed of 5 with a green flat lake county pad and Menzerna 3800. 3 overlapping passes in 2'x2' sections. I knew the clear coat would be soft as the factory clear generally is on Toyotas and being 23 years old, on the thinner side (as evident by the hood there and the roof is showing the same in spots). The goal was not to eliminate all the scratches and have a show quality finish as that would murder the clear coat thickness and would be in for a repaint very soon. I wanted to enhance the paint, maybe take out some of the micro-scratches in the paint. So my approach described above was not aggressive at all, Menzerna 3800 has almost little cut and the foam pad was on the lower end of cutting/polishing power as well. Always when working with vehicle paint, start with the least aggressive method and go from there in small test spots. I was very happy with my first result of this, so I stuck with it. Side by side showing before and after, still scratches there but much better clarity with some correction still achieved.
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Lastly was the protection. Gyeon Prep was before the wax to remove the remaining polishing oils and give a nice clean surface for protection to adhere to for good durability. Used a lake country flat black foam pad, speed 4 for the protection. I have been a fan from the get go of Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant. It smells great, goes on very easy and I let it sit on there for about an hour (you can let it sit on the paint overnight if you have an enclosed space) and it wipes off effortlessly. Generally will last 3-4 months depending on your environment. Also used Collinite 845 on the A pillars by hand since its a tight space and on the roof with the paint fading for protection.
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I built an interior fishing rod setup that's much more solid than anything else I've tried. Holds 11 rods. The rack itself has zero bounce or movement while off-roading to my favorite back country fishing spots. Having them bounce around on rope/bungees was super annoying.

The rods still have a little play in them, so I plan on stapling some small bungee cord on one side of the rear board near the bottom of the holes, which I can then easily loop over the rod handle as I put it into the rack. This should put enough pressure on it to hold it down and keep it from rattling around.

The finished product. I used the closet color of rattle can from Lowe's to paint the steel brackets secured behind the rear grab handles and the wooden rack.
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The steel bracket test-fitted in. I put three large washers between the grab handle and roof to keep the brackets from rubbing on the roof liner too much. I bought some slightly longer bolts to make up for the gap. The grab handles still feel very sturdy.
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The color matched up pretty well to my liking.
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A handful of rods in the finished product.
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Shot from the front. I have just enough room to get my hand in between the front rack and the roof to turn the dome light on/off.
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I will buy a set if you make more of these. This is exactly what I’m looking for!
 
Welp took this day to really give the cruiser some love. I've commented on a few folks threads about car paint correction/protection and some procedures to improve. Now here is my quick story and what I used (goes without saying, but find shade if you don't have a garage. If you are in the direct sunlight, paint gets hot, causes your wash job to have all the water spots and polish to glaze over before you've had a chance to even make 1 pass on a panel area). Lucky it was cloudy with my shade tree there. Been detailing cars now for going on 2 years now.
First photo shows what my canvas was to start with. Nothing crazy dirty, been using Gyeon Wetcoat as my temporary solution to keep the paint well protected for several months until now.

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Next is after a wash with Meguiars D111 Pro soap, CarPro Iron X for iron decon, Pinnacle ultra fine clay and Optimum No Rise for clay lube.
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Broke out the polisher now, Adams mini swirl killer (mostly due to the panels are not that large and gives me some good control) speed of 5 with a green flat lake county pad and Menzerna 3800. 3 overlapping passes in 2'x2' sections. I knew the clear coat would be soft as the factory clear generally is on Toyotas and being 23 years old, on the thinner side (as evident by the hood there and the roof is showing the same in spots). The goal was not to eliminate all the scratches and have a show quality finish as that would murder the clear coat thickness and would be in for a repaint very soon. I wanted to enhance the paint, maybe take out some of the micro-scratches in the paint. So my approach described above was not aggressive at all, Menzerna 3800 has almost little cut and the foam pad was on the lower end of cutting/polishing power as well. Always when working with vehicle paint, start with the least aggressive method and go from there in small test spots. I was very happy with my first result of this, so I stuck with it. Side by side showing before and after, still scratches there but much better clarity with some correction still achieved.
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Lastly was the protection. Gyeon Prep was before the wax to remove the remaining polishing oils and give a nice clean surface for protection to adhere to for good durability. Used a lake country flat black foam pad, speed 4 for the protection. I have been a fan from the get go of Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant. It smells great, goes on very easy and I let it sit on there for about an hour (you can let it sit on the paint overnight if you have an enclosed space) and it wipes off effortlessly. Generally will last 3-4 months depending on your environment. Also used Collinite 845 on the A pillars by hand since its a tight space and on the roof with the paint fading for protection.
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If you put a paint meter on the inner door jambs and then the outer panels you’ll see you have 2 to 3 mils of clear to work with.
 
Too bad you can't transfer the paint as well :frown:. That is such a beautiful and unusual color on an 80. I really loved how it came out when you painted it.
The 80 that is going to be the "phoenix" is getting painted the same green, I am happy to say.
This truck still looks pretty nice but just too much crust to deal with.

Here's the donor
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The original truck was pretty nice but it sat in grass for several years unused and it rusted the crap out of the bottom. I don't know if that is a Michigan thing only or not but with the humidity and acidic soil it spells trouble
 
If you put a paint meter on the inner door jambs and then the outer panels you’ll see you have 2 to 3 mils of clear to work with.
Spot on bub, about the same thickness as a post it note! But only about the top .5 mils have the UV protection aspect, so taking that away will lead to premature clear coat failure. The old girl sadly has seen better days with some oxidation on the hood spot you can see and some clear coat failure, same for the roof. I wanted to show that you don't need to grab the rotary and m100 from the start to produce results that will still leave as much of the precious clear coat as you can. Chasing random scratches to get perfection is where you will be kicking yourself later.
 
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Went through my boxes of parts, still have a few left
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Spot on bub, about the same thickness as a post it note! But only about the top .5 mils have the UV protection aspect, so taking that away will lead to premature clear coat failure. The old girl sadly has seen better days with some oxidation on the hood spot you can see and some clear coat failure, same for the roof. I wanted to show that you don't need to grab the rotary and m100 from the start to produce results that will still leave as much of the precious clear coat as you can. Chasing random scratches to get perfection is where you will be kicking yourself later.
I metered my paint after a correction and averaged .5 mil of loss. Toyota used a good clear.
 
The 80 has been under the knife quite a bit lately. Got all the general neglected maintenance stuff it needed done like all the coolant hoses with the PHH and FHH, front main seal, distributor o ring, and oil pump seal, fuel filter, new radiator, starter, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

Then on top of that one of my pet peeves has been the 5.29s I put in matched with 37s two years ago. I have hatedddd it. I live at 7200ft and still think it’s to much gearing for 37s and with how people drive around here it’s dumb when I feel guilty doing anything over 75 without revving the crap out of it. Ya maybe with 37s it’s foolish to want to go faster then 75 comfortably but I do. Might do the low range gears in the T case eventually but I have yet to determine if I think its necessary.

So a while ago I picked up a set of 4.88s already installed in 3rd members with a Aussie locker in the back. Then I finally found a cheap ARB air locker on craigslist to throw in the front. So I finally got around to throwing that in and rebuilding the front end. Install went well and I’m currently in the process of breaking it in and the rear Aussie locker is stupid loud and clunky. I had a Aussie locker in the rear of my 5.29s and it was not nearly as bad. I’m hoping it just needs more miles on its belt and it’ll quite down but right now I am concerned. Better that the rear is giving me trouble then the front though I guess haha.

Also made a new sleeping platform in the back that is flush with the back seats so I can lay down and sleep on it relatively comfortably and it has cubbies underneath for my camping stuff, tools, and sub. Not a fancy drawer system by any means but I’m pretty pleased with how it came out.

Sorta over working on it and just ready to get driving and wheeling it again. On the bright side the 60 has been a really good DD while the 80 has been getting its love. I picked this 60 up recently and I LOVE driving it it’s just bleeding character but now with the 80 back in biz and loving the 80 the question is going keep the 60 and the 80 and live happily every after, or sell the 60 and throw Joeys turbo kit on the 80 🤔

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Finally got around to installing a CDL switch and the pin 7 mod. Lesson learned: 1993 plastic is brittle. Very brittle.

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On a related note: does anyone know the part numbers of the screw and especially the plastic blue nutsert? They're the ones found on the left and right side of the ashtray, holding the "PANEL, INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FINISH, CENTER" (Part No.: 55412-60010) in place.

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Bring it to a Toyota dealer and they might be able to match it up.
 
A few things are done

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Painted duplicolor wheel satin black, leftover wheel paint and duplicolor clear on top
sanded down to the chrome with 380 grit everywhere else

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Me and evaporust are teaming up to remove the rust from the hood catch. Then my friend pb is coming over and between her the ice king and me hopefully we can prevent my hood from popping open at 40 like it did on Saturday 😳

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Got some other bits that went on..
Rusted off non functioning rear hatch handle replaced with OEM after Amazon debacle. Also added that inside grab bar for the hatch... didn't even know that existed, mine was missing when bought, solid peice.
Some plastic screws for these rear entry steps, they're finally in too, kids will be happy getting in now

... ash tray bulb going in... lol

I really need to start digging into the mechanicals as you can see im keeping myself busy with all these other fun little cosmetic projects. Time to clean out the garage! And move "Padron" into its new home lol

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Oh I painted those hubcaps too, came out nice
 
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The original truck was pretty nice but it sat in grass for several years unused and it rusted the crap out of the bottom. I don't know if that is a Michigan thing only or not but with the humidity and acidic soil it spells trouble

Sitting in the grass rots em all to hell. Not just a Michigan thing.

Although a vehicle sinking in the ground, maybe a busted window, just squatting, tall grass up to the door handles is Pure Michigan! hehe
 
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The 80 has been under the knife quite a bit lately. Got all the general neglected maintenance stuff it needed done like all the coolant hoses with the PHH and FHH, front main seal, distributor o ring, and oil pump seal, fuel filter, new radiator, starter, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

Then on top of that one of my pet peeves has been the 5.29s I put in matched with 37s two years ago. I have hatedddd it. I live at 7200ft and still think it’s to much gearing for 37s and with how people drive around here it’s dumb when I feel guilty doing anything over 75 without revving the crap out of it. Ya maybe with 37s it’s foolish to want to go faster then 75 comfortably but I do. Might do the low range gears in the T case eventually but I have yet to determine if I think its necessary.

So a while ago I picked up a set of 4.88s already installed in 3rd members with a Aussie locker in the back. Then I finally found a cheap ARB air locker on craigslist to throw in the front. So I finally got around to throwing that in and rebuilding the front end. Install went well and I’m currently in the process of breaking it in and the rear Aussie locker is stupid loud and clunky. I had a Aussie locker in the rear of my 5.29s and it was not nearly as bad. I’m hoping it just needs more miles on its belt and it’ll quite down but right now I am concerned. Better that the rear is giving me trouble then the front though I guess haha.

Also made a new sleeping platform in the back that is flush with the back seats so I can lay down and sleep on it relatively comfortably and it has cubbies underneath for my camping stuff, tools, and sub. Not a fancy drawer system by any means but I’m pretty pleased with how it came out.

Sorta over working on it and just ready to get driving and wheeling it again. On the bright side the 60 has been a really good DD while the 80 has been getting its love. I picked this 60 up recently and I LOVE driving it it’s just bleeding character but now with the 80 back in biz and loving the 80 the question is going keep the 60 and the 80 and live happily every after, or sell the 60 and throw Joeys turbo kit on the 80 🤔

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Don’t sell the 60, you’ll regret it I promise. Like you said they have soul and character...
 
The 80 has been under the knife quite a bit lately. Got all the general neglected maintenance stuff it needed done like all the coolant hoses with the PHH and FHH, front main seal, distributor o ring, and oil pump seal, fuel filter, new radiator, starter, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

Then on top of that one of my pet peeves has been the 5.29s I put in matched with 37s two years ago. I have hatedddd it. I live at 7200ft and still think it’s to much gearing for 37s and with how people drive around here it’s dumb when I feel guilty doing anything over 75 without revving the crap out of it. Ya maybe with 37s it’s foolish to want to go faster then 75 comfortably but I do. Might do the low range gears in the T case eventually but I have yet to determine if I think its necessary.

So a while ago I picked up a set of 4.88s already installed in 3rd members with a Aussie locker in the back. Then I finally found a cheap ARB air locker on craigslist to throw in the front. So I finally got around to throwing that in and rebuilding the front end. Install went well and I’m currently in the process of breaking it in and the rear Aussie locker is stupid loud and clunky. I had a Aussie locker in the rear of my 5.29s and it was not nearly as bad. I’m hoping it just needs more miles on its belt and it’ll quite down but right now I am concerned. Better that the rear is giving me trouble then the front though I guess haha.

Also made a new sleeping platform in the back that is flush with the back seats so I can lay down and sleep on it relatively comfortably and it has cubbies underneath for my camping stuff, tools, and sub. Not a fancy drawer system by any means but I’m pretty pleased with how it came out.

Sorta over working on it and just ready to get driving and wheeling it again. On the bright side the 60 has been a really good DD while the 80 has been getting its love. I picked this 60 up recently and I LOVE driving it it’s just bleeding character but now with the 80 back in biz and loving the 80 the question is going keep the 60 and the 80 and live happily every after, or sell the 60 and throw Joeys turbo kit on the 80 🤔

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Man, this hits close to home right now. With the economy where it is right now, it's looking like I'm going to have to sell my 60 so I don't have to back out of my turbo pre-order. I know I'll regret it but I'll get another one again sooner rather than later, and I know the turbo is definitely going to be worth it.
 
The 80 has been under the knife quite a bit lately. Got all the general neglected maintenance stuff it needed done like all the coolant hoses with the PHH and FHH, front main seal, distributor o ring, and oil pump seal, fuel filter, new radiator, starter, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

Then on top of that one of my pet peeves has been the 5.29s I put in matched with 37s two years ago. I have hatedddd it. I live at 7200ft and still think it’s to much gearing for 37s and with how people drive around here it’s dumb when I feel guilty doing anything over 75 without revving the crap out of it. Ya maybe with 37s it’s foolish to want to go faster then 75 comfortably but I do. Might do the low range gears in the T case eventually but I have yet to determine if I think its necessary.

So a while ago I picked up a set of 4.88s already installed in 3rd members with a Aussie locker in the back. Then I finally found a cheap ARB air locker on craigslist to throw in the front. So I finally got around to throwing that in and rebuilding the front end. Install went well and I’m currently in the process of breaking it in and the rear Aussie locker is stupid loud and clunky. I had a Aussie locker in the rear of my 5.29s and it was not nearly as bad. I’m hoping it just needs more miles on its belt and it’ll quite down but right now I am concerned. Better that the rear is giving me trouble then the front though I guess haha.

Also made a new sleeping platform in the back that is flush with the back seats so I can lay down and sleep on it relatively comfortably and it has cubbies underneath for my camping stuff, tools, and sub. Not a fancy drawer system by any means but I’m pretty pleased with how it came out.

Sorta over working on it and just ready to get driving and wheeling it again. On the bright side the 60 has been a really good DD while the 80 has been getting its love. I picked this 60 up recently and I LOVE driving it it’s just bleeding character but now with the 80 back in biz and loving the 80 the question is going keep the 60 and the 80 and live happily every after, or sell the 60 and throw Joeys turbo kit on the 80 🤔

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Coming from somone who's at two of each, owning a 60 > owning a turbo. Keep the 60, regrets will be had if you sell it. And if you do decide to sell, the punishment for your foolishness will be you must sell it to me. :flipoff2: In fact, I've got a wits' end kit new in the box--I'll trade you straight up for your 60 :hillbilly:


But don't stiff Joey--just apply for a new credit card :D
 
The 80 has been under the knife quite a bit lately. Got all the general neglected maintenance stuff it needed done like all the coolant hoses with the PHH and FHH, front main seal, distributor o ring, and oil pump seal, fuel filter, new radiator, starter, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

Then on top of that one of my pet peeves has been the 5.29s I put in matched with 37s two years ago. I have hatedddd it. I live at 7200ft and still think it’s to much gearing for 37s and with how people drive around here it’s dumb when I feel guilty doing anything over 75 without revving the crap out of it. Ya maybe with 37s it’s foolish to want to go faster then 75 comfortably but I do. Might do the low range gears in the T case eventually but I have yet to determine if I think its necessary.

So a while ago I picked up a set of 4.88s already installed in 3rd members with a Aussie locker in the back. Then I finally found a cheap ARB air locker on craigslist to throw in the front. So I finally got around to throwing that in and rebuilding the front end. Install went well and I’m currently in the process of breaking it in and the rear Aussie locker is stupid loud and clunky. I had a Aussie locker in the rear of my 5.29s and it was not nearly as bad. I’m hoping it just needs more miles on its belt and it’ll quite down but right now I am concerned. Better that the rear is giving me trouble then the front though I guess haha.

Also made a new sleeping platform in the back that is flush with the back seats so I can lay down and sleep on it relatively comfortably and it has cubbies underneath for my camping stuff, tools, and sub. Not a fancy drawer system by any means but I’m pretty pleased with how it came out.

Sorta over working on it and just ready to get driving and wheeling it again. On the bright side the 60 has been a really good DD while the 80 has been getting its love. I picked this 60 up recently and I LOVE driving it it’s just bleeding character but now with the 80 back in biz and loving the 80 the question is going keep the 60 and the 80 and live happily every after, or sell the 60 and throw Joeys turbo kit on the 80 🤔

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Interesting how much perspective seems to matter with the gearing decision. I had 4.88s on my last 80 and it was better than stock but just didn't feel like quite enough - and that was on 35s! Have 35s on my current truck and plan to pair with 5.29s (have them on the shelf) will see how it goes. Use matters a lot, sounds like you do a lot of highway driving. 90% of my on road driving is country backroads and when on the highway I stick in the 65-70mph range - this is a 23 year old land cruiser after all. Also may be towing a small camper in the future and want the extra gearing for that in addition to effortlessness in 4L.
 
Coming from somone who's at two of each, owning a 60 > owning a turbo. Keep the 60, regrets will be had if you sell it. And if you do decide to sell, the punishment for your foolishness will be you must sell it to me. :flipoff2: In fact, I've got a wits' end kit new in the box--I'll trade you straight up for your 60 :hillbilly:


But don't stiff Joey--just apply for a new credit card :D

oh man, super jealous of your NIB turbo kit. I was really hoping to have mine in before my newborn arrives but it's not looking like it.
 

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