What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (53 Viewers)

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You can get them cheap from someone parting out a rig. Certainly cheaper than the aftermarket options.

And much less of a rock anchor too.
How do the stock tow loops keep the bolts in a stronger configuration compared to a proper recovery point mounted in the same location?
The factory "tow loops" are actually lashing points for transport and not intended to be used as full blown recovery points although a lot of people use them that way. I've seen several break and dangerously go flying over the years. That's why I replaced mine.

Unfortunately my rig didn't have the stock recovery loops when I got it.

You can have my stock loops if you want them for the cost of shipping. They are not what I would suggest using for recovery points however.
 
How do the stock tow loops keep the bolts in a stronger configuration compared to a proper recovery point mounted in the same location?
The factory "tow loops" are actually lashing points for transport and not intended to be used as full blown recovery points although a lot of people use them that way. I've seen several break and dangerously go flying over the years.

What comes on a Camry is a lashing point, these are for recovery. Not that they can't be broken if rigged improperly.. anything will break with enough force.

The stock recovery points put the loop further out to the front/rear than both bolts. This makes the application of force more in line with the mounting surface and therefore in "shear", and properly displacing the force between both fasteners. A properly set up shear fitment is far stronger than the bolts alone because the clamping force creates friction between the surfaces of the recovery point and the frame.

Those large aftermarket "proper" recovery brackets (for 80s.. I've seen much better setups for other vehicles in recovery videos) have the hole between the bolts and spaced further from the frame. When force is applied this will act like a lever with the fulcrum being the front bolt and putting the rear bolt primarily in tension (not 100% because there is still some shear in this setup but nowhere near as much as the stock point). Not as strong as stock config. Not only that, since they are made from thick steel plate that is simply bent into an L, the anchor point is offset significantly to one side of the bolts. So add some twisting forces at the mounting surface into the mix.

These are the reasons practically all recovery points installed on 4wd and heavy duty vehicles are not simply bent pieces of plate steel with the hole square between the bolts, despite how cheap it would be to implement. They generally have the hole/loop/hook much closer to the plane of the mounting surface with the frame. Even when hidden by bumpers so hanging up on objects isn't a concern when designing them. Many aftermarket bumpers include plate steel recovery points but they are almost always straight and welded directly to the bumper.

If my bumpers didn't already include stout recovery points I'd have stock hooks with some additional welding on them, held on with stock fasteners torqued as tightly as specs for that grade/size/pitch of bolt allow. My understanding of bolted joints tells me this is a stronger setup for the hardware than any aftermarket option I've seen. Not that the aftermarket bracket itself isn't strong.. just that that configuration is more likely to have the same grade of bolts fail.

Edit: I mention stock fasteners because Toyota surely designed them to work with the inserts in the frame.
 
attempting to paint. Decided to up the difficulty level to 11 by painting outdoors next to a bird feeder :flipoff2:

full
 
What comes on a Camry is a lashing point, these are for recovery. Not that they can't be broken if rigged improperly.. anything will break with enough force.

The stock recovery points put the loop further out to the front/rear than both bolts. This makes the application of force more in line with the mounting surface and therefore in "shear", and properly displacing the force between both fasteners. A properly set up shear fitment is far stronger than the bolts alone because the clamping force creates friction between the surfaces of the recovery point and the frame.

Those large aftermarket "proper" recovery brackets (for 80s.. I've seen much better setups for other vehicles in recovery videos) have the hole between the bolts and spaced further from the frame. When force is applied this will act like a lever with the fulcrum being the front bolt and putting the rear bolt primarily in tension (not 100% because there is still some shear in this setup but nowhere near as much as the stock point). Not as strong as stock config. Not only that, since they are made from thick steel plate that is simply bent into an L, the anchor point is offset significantly to one side of the bolts. So add some twisting forces at the mounting surface into the mix.

These are the reasons practically all recovery points installed on 4wd and heavy duty vehicles are not simply bent pieces of plate steel with the hole square between the bolts, despite how cheap it would be to implement. They generally have the hole/loop/hook much closer to the plane of the mounting surface with the frame. Even when hidden by bumpers so hanging up on objects isn't a concern when designing them. Many aftermarket bumpers include plate steel recovery points but they are almost always straight and welded directly to the bumper.

If my bumpers didn't already include stout recovery points I'd have stock hooks with some additional welding on them, held on with stock fasteners torqued as tightly as specs for that grade/size/pitch of bolt allow. My understanding of bolted joints tells me this is a stronger setup for the hardware than any aftermarket option I've seen. Not that the aftermarket bracket itself isn't strong.. just that that configuration is more likely to have the same grade of bolts fail.

Edit: I mention stock fasteners because Toyota surely designed them to work with the inserts in the frame.
Makes sense. Still seen enough stock loops fail to make me wary of them.
 
Makes sense. Still seen enough stock loops fail to make me wary of them.

Did you see any up close after failure? What happened to them? Torn weld? Torn baseplate? Broken hoop? Broken bolts?

BTW if you google "prado recovery point" you'll see some MUCH better aftermarket designs than what we have been discussing so far. It seems ARB is even selling recovery points for these now. They do have very different options when it comes to anchoring the point to the frame, however.
 
Did you see any up close after failure? What happened to them? Torn weld? Torn baseplate? Broken hoop? Broken bolts?

BTW if you google "prado recovery point" you'll see some MUCH better aftermarket designs than what we have been discussing so far. It seems ARB is even selling recovery points for these now. They do have very different options when it comes to anchoring the point to the frame, however.
Of the ones I've seen break, all were broken loops. There were some with damage at the welds, but ultimate failure point was the loop. One was sheared bolts which was likely a result of improper torque.
 
Another better shot from my 3 day trail ride. I was hurting for fuel starting the 3rd day so it prompted me to finish up the dual swing outs on my rear bumper so I'm able to carry extra fuel. I usually carry my extra fuel on my trailer which I didn't bring out
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Over the last few weekends:
Took the baby on her first camping trip. Quick overnighter close to home to test the waters. She did great!
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Got suckered into buying more stuff by IH8MUD. JIS screwdrivers, a Baofeng Red UV-5R V2+ (USA Warranty) Dual-Band 136-174/400-480 MHz FM Ham Two-way Radio, Improved Stronger Case, Enhanced Features, and bug screens which I'm making myself.
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Also bought a couple of tool rolls to keep things in order when I get my KISS drawers next week.
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And last but not least, I added some more storage. A dog and kid require space. The wife decided she like the new Yakima box we bought so I found this nib Thule on CL. Now we really look like we're from the PNW!
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Installed my vc120 charcoal canister. I couldn't get the bottom bracket back on when sliding the canister in from the top. The upper bracket is tight and it won't budge so not worried about it. Old one was plugged up. Going on my first spring turkey hunt this weekend. Wish me luck!
 
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Another better shot from my 3 day trail ride. I was hurting for fuel starting the 3rd day so it prompted me to finish up the dual swing outs on my rear bumper so I'm able to carry extra fuel. I usually carry my extra fuel on my trailer which I didn't bring out View attachment 1444970 View attachment 1444968
I have the twin LX450 - what sliders are you running?
 
What comes on a Camry is a lashing point, these are for recovery. Not that they can't be broken if rigged improperly.. anything will break with enough force.

No exaggeration, I've seen those loops broken at the welds on two different 80s, including one that had no signs of any off roading.
 
It's really making me distrust everyone. :bang:

Not one person, other than myself, has put so much as a screwdriver on my wagon since I've owned it.
Granted I've not had the head off or exhaust work done yet.
I'm 'lucky' that I never really had the resources to pay for work growing up.
Also, having tools nd somewhere to work allows me to be the only one wrenching it.
Plus I like doing it. It's a hobby.
 
Installed the CDL switch and swapped some good parts for bad parts on the climate control. 24 year old plastic that was in Arizona is a blast to work without cracking apart. JB weld to the rescue.

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