What comes on a Camry is a lashing point, these are for recovery. Not that they can't be broken if rigged improperly.. anything will break with enough force.
The stock recovery points put the loop further out to the front/rear than both bolts. This makes the application of force more in line with the mounting surface and therefore in "shear", and properly displacing the force between both fasteners. A properly set up shear fitment is far stronger than the bolts alone because the clamping force creates friction between the surfaces of the recovery point and the frame.
Those large aftermarket "proper" recovery brackets (for 80s.. I've seen much better setups for other vehicles in recovery videos) have the hole between the bolts and spaced further from the frame. When force is applied this will act like a lever with the fulcrum being the front bolt and putting the rear bolt primarily in tension (not 100% because there is still some shear in this setup but nowhere near as much as the stock point). Not as strong as stock config. Not only that, since they are made from thick steel plate that is simply bent into an L, the anchor point is offset significantly to one side of the bolts. So add some twisting forces at the mounting surface into the mix.
These are the reasons practically all recovery points installed on 4wd and heavy duty vehicles are not simply bent pieces of plate steel with the hole square between the bolts, despite how cheap it would be to implement. They generally have the hole/loop/hook much closer to the plane of the mounting surface with the frame. Even when hidden by bumpers so hanging up on objects isn't a concern when designing them. Many aftermarket bumpers include plate steel recovery points but they are almost always straight and welded directly to the bumper.
If my bumpers didn't already include stout recovery points I'd have stock hooks with some additional welding on them, held on with stock fasteners torqued as tightly as specs for that grade/size/pitch of bolt allow. My understanding of bolted joints tells me this is a stronger setup for the hardware than any aftermarket option I've seen. Not that the aftermarket bracket itself isn't strong.. just that that configuration is more likely to have the same grade of bolts fail.
Edit: I mention stock fasteners because Toyota surely designed them to work with the inserts in the frame.