What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (14 Viewers)

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First task was a pretty easy one to dive back into the h55f swap that I’ll finally be completing while the 60 sleeps this winter (avoiding salty northeast roads).

I tapped the unused bolt hole in the front of a spare 38mm t-case and added a plug (1/4-18 NPT tap and brass plug, along with orange Loctite for peace of mind):

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Last summer I scored a new set of 5 General X3 tires in 33x10.5r15 off of FB marketplace, and in the fall I put 4 of them on the 60 mounted on some old 15x8 Eagle 058 wheels that I refinished. I finally located a 5th wheel and refinished it to match the other 4, got the 5th tire mounted, and today I replaced the stock spare wheel/tire with the new one:

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Hangs a bit lower but I’m not worried about it
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A couple minor observations:

The General X3 actually measures 33” and still fits with probably another 2” to spare (1” to shackle hardware on either side), meaning I could get up to a 35” tire under there if I also reworked the receiver mounting hardware that sticks into the space a bit. I have no intention of going that big though.

Second, I thought I had a full factory toolkit in the 60, but found it was a few pieces short when I went to lower the original spare so I had to improvise. I wound up throwing an 8mm hex key in an 8mm socket with a few extensions, which I then used to lower the spare without (much) incident; keeping it lined up was the only thing I really had to pay attention to. I sprayed some liquid wrench in a few hours before lowering the spare, but it was removed when I had the fuel tank recalll done 2-3 years ago so I don’t think it was really needed.

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I’ll try to find the missing pieces to complete my factory tool kit so I don’t have to get creative if/when I need to access the spare away from home.

Nothing exciting, but it was nice to check a few things off.
I like those wheels in that color. Nice job there.
 
Installed a new brass/copper radiator & also replaced my beat up & leaking (hole in tank) Saginaw power steering pump. Still a bit of tidying up to do but it’s been cold outside!

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Installed a new brass/copper radiator & also replaced my beat up & leaking (hole in tank) Saginaw power steering pump. Still a bit of tidying up to do but it’s been cold outside!

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That radiator looks a lot like what is in my '84 60. I recently drained the coolant but did not use the radiator petcock because it was hard to see or reach, and I didn't want to take a chance of breaking it. What does your petcock on your radiator look like, how does one operate it? Mine looks a little like a thumbscrew, but black.

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That radiator looks a lot like what is in my '84 60. I recently drained the coolant but did not use the radiator petcock because it was hard to see or reach, and I didn't want to take a chance of breaking it. What does your petcock on your radiator look like, how does one operate it? Mine looks a little like a thumbscrew, but black.

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@robcgray Here is a picture of my drain petcock. Somewhat similar to yours and in a very hard to reach location once the radiator is installed…especially since my new one was painted with the drain tightened. Very hard to open all painted up. But after fiddling with it for 15 min I was able to get it to open & now can move it by hand.

On mine at least, now that I can freely move it, I will tighten it down ‘a bit’ with some pliers. S/b good. But do be careful to not beat on it too hard…I was worried about damage also. I should have opened it up while out of the vehicle.

Take your time, be firm but aware at the same time.

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@robcgray Here is a picture of my drain petcock. Somewhat similar to yours and in a very hard to reach location once the radiator is installed…especially since my new one was painted with the drain tightened. Very hard to open all painted up. But after fiddling with it for 15 min I was able to get it to open & now can move it by hand.

On mine at least, now that I can freely move it, I will tighten it down ‘a bit’ with some pliers. S/b good. But do be careful to not beat on it too hard…I was worried about damage also. I should have opened it up while out of the vehicle.

Take your time, be firm but aware at the same time.

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Very similar if not identical! So it just unscrews?
Thanks!
 
Very similar if not identical! So it just unscrews?
Thanks!
Oh, sorry, yes, it just unscrews. Counterclockwise to loosen.
 
Oh, sorry, yes, it just unscrews. Counterclockwise to loosen.
These are definitely in a terrible spot. I’ve often thought of putting a piece of hose or pipe on it to extend it for easier access.
 
These are definitely in a terrible spot. I’ve often thought of putting a piece of hose or pipe on it to extend it for easier access.
Yeah, I doubt there will be a steady unbroken stream of coolant right into a bucket. Probably will hit several surfaces and create streams varying from pour to splash all over. They way the thumb screw looks, not sure a hose would fit nicely over it.
 
These are definitely in a terrible spot. I’ve often thought of putting a piece of hose or pipe on it to extend it for easier access.
There is an OEM part number for a threaded drain assembly/petcock with a small nipple that you can attach a hose to. It's much less mess when you can run the hose straight to a bucket. I stuck one in my engine block - the body of the valve threads in and the valve itself threads inside of that - it works great. I figured the drain in the radiator was the same so I "unscrewed" it only to find that it was brazed in. Oops. I JB welded it and it's held great, but it got me thinking ... maybe the OEM petcock can be turned down on the thread side so it's a tight press fit into the radiator, and it can be brazed from there. A lot of work for a small convenience, but if it's in the middle of a radiator replacement it would make more sense.
 
I used it to take my 13 yr old daughter and 19 yr old son out shooting. Both had more fun than they expected. Then she got a driving lesson in 2-low. She loves the Land Cruiser more than any other vehicle but hasn't driven.
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She hasn't ever been shooting before so I let her get familiar with the 22's before introducing the muzzleloaders. Then the 1943 M1 Garand. I don't get to see her often as she lives with her mom in Cali. She loves the classics. 🥰
 
DAMN!!! Thanks for sharing, looks like we have our next Toyota Trails cover pic! Sweet rig and shooting location.
 
There is an OEM part number for a threaded drain assembly/petcock with a small nipple that you can attach a hose to. It's much less mess when you can run the hose straight to a bucket. I stuck one in my engine block - the body of the valve threads in and the valve itself threads inside of that - it works great. I figured the drain in the radiator was the same so I "unscrewed" it only to find that it was brazed in. Oops. I JB welded it and it's held great, but it got me thinking ... maybe the OEM petcock can be turned down on the thread side so it's a tight press fit into the radiator, and it can be brazed from there. A lot of work for a small convenience, but if it's in the middle of a radiator replacement it would make more sense.
Here’s another idea
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Picked up 6.2L of power in the sketchiest transport work I've ever done. Rolled it off the Uhaul and into my garage. Teardown starts soon to see the internal condition. Motor is an L92, aluminum block and heads. Truck accessories, non-hollow valves, intake manifold and camshaft are what differentiate this motor from an LS3. Once it's ready to go into my 60 it'll be putting out way more than a stock LS3.
 
Meant to post this for those that may be getting ready to do a knuckle job. Got these hub selector bolts from @ToyotaMatt
Very happy with the way they tie in with the OME shackles etc.
before and after pics

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Found the cause of the intermittent squeal. Loose dust cap on the rear driveshaft yoke. Decided to do the u joints, rear pinion seal as well. Guess u joints we’re pretty worn cause the clink and clanks are gone. Truck runs much smoother now

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