Ernboto’s FJ60

Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
My bad!
Thank you though.
More progress this week on the FJ60. I received my rear OEM FJ62 anti-sway bar from Classic Cruisers and the extended drop links and bushings from Man A Fre this week.

Rusty Gold

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I sandblasted and powder coated the parts, the bolts got nickel plated. Not factory spec but I have the setup.

B1953443-DCAC-4F30-95A8-3CABE48C8689.jpeg

DA23A9C6-D663-44EB-A324-B33D0A0A6EBE.jpeg

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The front links are burly compared to the OEM pieces.

B2C7113D-FEBB-4A8D-B7DF-9F534AF79249.jpeg


The old links were bent and the bushings were shot.

I did have to take the wagon to the shop to move the exhaust pipe a little because the rear driver side link rubbed. Not too bad.

Overall, this was an easy and very worthwhile upgrade. The truck is much more composed on windy roads and is better behaved during freeway lane changes.

8923DF36-850A-4107-8D14-9E8A761F867B.jpeg
 

TRFarmers

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Mar 19, 2021
Messages
29
Location
USA
Website
www.therustfarmers.com
Like many wagons of this vintage, my washer reservoir was cracked and leaking. I ordered an excellent reproduction from @TRFarmers , along with a new grommet for the pump. I hastily installed the new unit and filled the system with water. The system had a steady leak when sitting and could not build enough pressure for the squirrels to function. The valves appeared bad so I ordered new ones.

They arrived this week so I got to work.

These are all of the tools I used to do the job.
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The WD-40 will help loosen the rusty bolts and stuck on hoses. The pick can help work the straw into the hose. A pair of 10mm sockets with extensions are ideal and a good #2 Phillips.

I started by removing the reservoir, held in place by three 10mm bolts. Once free, I removed the hose with my vice like grip.

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Next comes the connector, just a simple push on the snap.
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Now I swapped the pump from the old tank to the new one. The old grommet disintegrated when I pulled it out so I’m glad I ordered the new one with the tank.

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Old and busted versus new hotness
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While the reservoir is out of the vehicle, test the pump. I added some water and connected the pump to a 12v bench power supply. The larger red cable is positive. Cycle it briefly, they are not designed to run for long.
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I originally did not order the valves so when I reconnected the tank, water just leaked out. More than likely, if the valves are the originals, you’ll need new ones.

To access the valves, I removed the headlight bezels. It’s just four Philips screws, three on the corner faces and one on the top.

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There’s a single electric connector, disconnecting it gave me better access to the valves.

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Removing the valves was the hardest part of the job. The hoses were stuck pretty good so some WD40 worked in with a screwdriver or pick helps to break them free. For the driver side, I ended up moving the clamps back toward the valve and pulling off the squirter from the front and working the hose free that way. The hose won’t fit through the hole in the sheet metal so it made it easier to work things free by pulling on the squirter housing.

Once I got one end free, I was able to drop the line through the gap and work on the other clamp from underneath.

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With both valves removed I blew some air through the hoses to clean any debris left in the system.

Then it’s just a matter of putting everything back together.

The valves are marked with an arrow in the direction of water flow. Don’t mess this up or you’ll have to wrestle the valve off again like I did.

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If you’re feeling lucky, you can test you old valve pretty easily once it’s outside the vehicle. If you blow into the fitting in the direction of the arrow, you should feel resistance. Unless you have super human lungs, no air will escape from the other end. If your valves are shot like mine, air will escape from the small hole at the elbow or through the other fitting. The system is designed to only allow water to flow to the washers under the pressure of the pump when activated. Otherwise, gravity would just drain the water while driving down the road.

Plan on replacing the valves ahead of time and just order them.

Once reconnected you should be able to fill the tank and test. Do this before replacing the headlight bezels.

FYI: the headlamp washers work off the same button as the windshield washers but only when the headlights are on. I didn’t know this and went on an unnecessary troubleshooting session.

If the washers don’t activate you may have a short or ground or even a bad relay.

The relay is located behind the driver side kick panel below the fuse panel.
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It’s the grey relay on the very bottom.

I had to cycle the pump a few times to work the air out of the system. The driver’s side didn’t work right away until I blew some air through the line to get things working.

I hope this inspires you to try the job yourself. It’s was very satisfying and took only a few hours working methodically and cleaning stuff up as I worked.


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Great write-up. I learned a lot from it.
 

Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
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Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
3d printed these strap guides (keepers?)to keep the belts out of the way when folding the seat up or down. Since my 60 never had rear shoulder belts, I found the straps interfered when folding the seat and there was a tendency to want to get stuck in the mechanism when putting the seat back up.

Double sided tape keeps them in place. Simple solution.
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Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
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Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
White Knuckle Off Road sliders came in so I got to work.
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Per the instructions, using jack stands and a floor jack to make installation easier. The kit is good and contains everything you need to complete the install. You get spacers so you can slip all of the u-bolts under the passenger side hard lines.

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The driver side required removal of the heat shield so I could slip in the u-bolts. That bolt in the middle snapped off but lucking I could reach the back and coaxed it out with some locking pliers.

I also found that there was a broken bolt on the frame that holds the skid plate. I took care of that while had the skid plate off to make the required notch for clearance of the hardware.
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I went with the reduced 10 degree option and top plate to make it easier for my short passengers to get in.

The install was very manageable by myself in the driveway. If it wasn’t for having to drill out a previously broken bolt it would have been an easy 2.5 hour project.



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I’m very happy with the finished product.

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CruiserTrash

Supporting Vendor
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Joined
Jul 15, 2020
Messages
1,137
Location
Denver
3d printed these strap guides (keepers?)to keep the belts out of the way when folding the seat up or down. Since my 60 never had rear shoulder belts, I found the straps interfered when folding the seat and there was a tendency to want to get stuck in the mechanism when putting the seat back up.

Double sided tape keeps them in place. Simple solution. View attachment 2940667
View attachment 2940668
I'm looking for rear 3-point belts and I'm interested in where you got yours. I'd also be interested in the keepers/guides at that point if you want to make more. Heck, you should just start selling them.
 

Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
I'm looking for rear 3-point belts and I'm interested in where you got yours. I'd also be interested in the keepers/guides at that point if you want to make more. Heck, you should just start selling them.

Late 1984-1987 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60, Driver & Passenger Seat Belt Kit
SKU: 50351-V01
Quantity: 1
Webbing Color: 69 - Charcoal
SKU: 69
Edit: Formatting
 
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Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
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Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
My 60 didn’t come with cargo hooks so I decided to something about it. I noted from other posts where the hooks are typically located. I lifted up my carpet and found factory punched holes under some tape and sound deadening but missing the threads.
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A few minutes with a nutsert press and I had the requisite M6x1.00 threaded holes in the floor.

I found that the holes are spaced 37mm/1.5” apart and that this is a common spacing for stainless cargo hooks. If found some at my local Home Depot.

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I decided to bolt the hooks down over the carpet for the easy access and to help hold down the carpet. I used 25mm flanged hex bolts though 20mm would have worked. The bill is extra length made installation easier.
 

Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
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Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
Decided to address the rattling transfer case lever that is now a common occurrence. I just couldn't bring myself to wrap a bungee cord and call it good so I decided to attack the source of the issue, worn bushings and dried up grease. The linkage is easy enough to reach from underneath once you remove the skid plate.

I ordered the bushings (PN: 36324-60050) but was unable to source the wave washer (outlined in purple) I ended up making my own out of a thin fender washer. I took everything apart, cleaned the parts and reassembled. The green areas were lubed with a heavy moly grease. Had I stopped there, the whole job would have taken about an hour. Foolishly, I ordered the high/low lever seal and decided to replace it "while I was down there". That turned into a day long side quest.

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I removed the linkage that attaches to the lever shaft in order to put in the new seal. I tried poking at it and seeing if I could pull it straight out. Since space was tight I had to pry it out at an angle. I used the high/low lever as my pivot point which just managed to push the lever down below the level of the seal, down into the case. This made getting the seal out much easier, but I created a new problem, how to pull the lever out. I tried a strong magnet, gluing a bolt to the top, swearing and cursing but somehow those methods didn't work. The winning solution was removing the transfer case inspection cover (seen below) and using a prybar to push it back into place.
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You need a out a 15" lever that either comes to a point or flat blade screwdriver. I couldn't get a good view straight on. There just isn't enough room under there for your head. I tried and inspection mirror and a flashlight, but that just left me frustrated and with a tired neck and arms. After taking a needed sanity break and some food I remembered that I had a boroscope so I taped that to the arm and was easily able to coax the lever back in place.
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The end result is a smooth shifting transfer case with no more rattling. Now I can go chase down the rattling in the doors. Minor victory.
 
Joined
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Messages
6,380
Location
Southern Colorado
Be careful there - with a rear anti-sway bar, rear cargo anchors, and rear seatbelts, you're getting awfully close to having an FJ62. Next, you'll put in an automatic transmission ;)

Great work, stories, and photos!
 

Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
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Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
Be careful there - with a rear anti-sway bar, rear cargo anchors, and rear seatbelts, you're getting awfully close to having an FJ62. Next, you'll put in an automatic transmission ;)

Great work, stories, and photos!
An FJ62 with round headlights 😏 I’m not willing to give up my five speed.
 
Joined
May 1, 2020
Messages
31
Location
Duvall, WA
More progress this week on the FJ60. I received my rear OEM FJ62 anti-sway bar from Classic Cruisers and the extended drop links and bushings from Man A Fre this week.

Rusty Gold

View attachment 2930044

I sandblasted and powder coated the parts, the bolts got nickel plated. Not factory spec but I have the setup.

View attachment 2930059
View attachment 2930060
View attachment 2930061

The front links are burly compared to the OEM pieces.

View attachment 2930065

The old links were bent and the bushings were shot.

I did have to take the wagon to the shop to move the exhaust pipe a little because the rear driver side link rubbed. Not too bad.

Overall, this was an easy and very worthwhile upgrade. The truck is much more composed on windy roads and is better behaved during freeway lane changes.

View attachment 2930058
Do you have pics of install...have same but nit sure where frame mounts go.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2017
Messages
595
Location
Portland, OR
Did the mounts for the rear sway bar start in 85? I'd love to add one but I suspect my 84 might be out of luck.
 

Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
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Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
Do you have pics of install...have same but nit sure where frame mounts go.
Did the mounts for the rear sway bar start in 85? I'd love to add one but I suspect my 84 might be out of luck.
Here is a pic of the rear lower anti swaybar mounts. They will be a single bolt hole with a slot above it for the clip that goes around the bushing.

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The upper mounting holes from underneath.

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The holes are located just forward of the inner fender mount.

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I’m not sure which years had the perches and holes from the factory. I have heard it’s ’84 and later.
 
Joined
May 1, 2020
Messages
31
Location
Duvall, WA
Thank you so much. I saw some of these holes but everything was more narrow than the bolts that were on the brackets I got. But based on this I'll get it sorted I think. I didn't want to make it up.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2017
Messages
595
Location
Portland, OR
Well, those mounts are definitely not on my 84, so they may be a year split or starting in 85.
 

Ernboto

My garage is my happy place
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Mar 18, 2021
Messages
136
Location
California
I have a plan to install remote door locks but it’s not my favorite task so I have been procrastinating and slowly working up to it. I have to make some progress on the 60, so I decided to remove the terrible tint from the windshield. A heat gun and a razor blade was effective.

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Also, I got a GMRS radio (Midland MXT275) To replace the old school CB.

With the mount on, the radio just squeezes into the ashtray spot.

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I’m still not sure about the antenna location. Screws grip the edge of the hood. I’m going to leave it for now.
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Joined
May 1, 2020
Messages
31
Location
Duvall, WA
So after my back recovered from my drive, I got to work on the seats. After weighing my options, I decided I wanted to keep my stocks and covers for now and just get new cushions, so I swallowed and placed my order with $SOR for a pair of seat bottoms.

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The finished seat was very firm and felt about 4” taller. I had to readjust my mirrors a lot. It eventually settled and became more comfortable. I made my first vinyl repair with the Permatex kit. Getting the color right was hard and it seems I got worse at it with each separate coat I had to apply. It will do for now and is helping to keep the tear from getting worse.

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I also got around to installing the incline meter. I had to find a new home for the CB that was crammed into the modified slot under the radio. I printed up some slides to install the radio in the ashtray slot for now.

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I thought I could live with the bloated visors since they seem impossible to find in good shape but that’s to the folks from Mud I found out the 70 series visors are still available and a good fit. The strange sand color really does blend with my grey interior.

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The wagon came with a miss matched spare so I got a new K02 and a stock chrome wheel and mounted it in the stock location.
I also removed the Kaymar tire carrier.

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Did you get your visors from CruiserOutfitters? Thanks again for the sway bar pics too. Super helpful on my install. -Carl
 

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