Swing Out Tire Carrier with 60 Stock Bumper

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Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Threads
7
Messages
56
Location
DFW, TX
I've searched extensively for folks that have made a custom swing out tire carrier for their 60 series, while maintaining their stock chrome bumper. I've seen some good YouTube videos, but they pretty much just provide help with the fabrication work itself. Corsetti Cruisers has a build that they've fab'd a tire carrier with the stock bumper, but it doesn't show much on how they did it. Their build looks like the black bumper endcap is actually fab'd out of metal, and the spindle is welded to the end cap, and the cap is bolted to the bumper through the stock bumper bolt holes. It's cool, but there's no way that I can fab that level of piece.

I was able to mount a winch on the front of my cruiser, while mantaining the stock chrome bumper, and only pushing the bumper out by 2 3/4", then cutting the top of the bumper around the winch. Worked great. Winch mounted on 60 series with stock bumper

Now, it's time for the back. This may be a long thread, as I mock up the build, and then work evenings and weekends to complete the build. But, I hope at least that it helps others, the way this forum has helped me. Or, maybe I can get some feedback.

So, here goes. . . .
 
The worst part of this project so far, has been removing the rear bumper. The rig has a trailer hitch receiver on it, that I have no idea when it went on. I'ts safe to say that the bumper has not been removed since then. That being said, the bolts were complete locked up and rusted. I used a number of products to help break them free, but in the end, i used an angle grinder and cut the bolts off. I scored the top of the chrome domed carriage bolts in the top of the bumper, and unfortunately scored the chrome in the bumper a little. But, it's 40 years old, so I think I'll live with it.

So the bumper is off, but that opens up some more 40 year old "problems". The frame behind the bumper is rusted a bit, so I will need to reinforce it with some flat stock, or some rectangle tubing, when I start the actual fab work. But also, due to the age, and rust, I am going to take the opportunity to clean up the frame and undercarriage and spray it with something like Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I'll try and show some of that in this thread, or make another one. Also, one of the bumper brackets is rusted and weakened more than I want, so I will consider that during the fab process.

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Just sharing the following sketch in case it is of any value to anyone else. I sketched up a couple of options for the build. One is similar to what the Corsetti build looks like, where the endcap is actually the structural piece. I have resolved to that NOT being the direction that I can go. The other one is using rectagular tubing, and welding it to the frame, where the bumper brackets are. That is what I have started fab'ing up with wood and PVC, prior to pulling the trigger on welding.

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Next step, for me, is to mock up the spindle for the driver side tire carrier (jerry can on the passenger side). I cut some scrap lumber to mimic a 2x5 rectangular tubing. I've seen a couple spindles, one on Amazon and at TMR. Both have a 1 1/2" base shaft and the top is about the size of an aluminum can. So, I used a 1 1/2" pvc and an aluminum can to mimic the spindle for now. My thoughts are to weld the tubing to the bumper bracket/frame, cutting a window out of the backside of the tubing for access to install bumper bolts. I also cut the end of the tubing at an angle to fit inside the bumper end caps.
As for the endcaps themselves, since my are pretty much shot. The bolt assemblies on the backs are totally rusted out. So, I think I'm going to try and cut the top of the endcaps to fit over the spindle, and then come up with a nice way to bolt them in place.

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For the tire carrier itself, I am thinking 2x3 tubing. For my mock-up, I used a piece of 2x3 lumber, (which means it will be 1/2" smaller in each dimension.)

I am currently running 33x12.5x15 Toyo Open Country MTs. They look great on the truck. They stand 33" high. I am setting the carrier up for up to a 34" high tire, based on where it shows on the bumper, at the tail light and through the window. I ran the vertical support for the carrier to be just a tad bit taller than the tire, in case i want to put a platform or something on it.
The carrier tubing will not be welded "on center" of the spindle, but rather justified to the outside. This is the only way I can ensure that the carrier doesn't hit to tailgate. I have some foam material zip-tied to it to ensure my spacing. I also have a 1 1/2" spacer between the bumper and the carrier.

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I like where this is going.
I'll probably do something similar, but I do want to retain use the original Toyota bumper endcaps.
 
Awesome ! this is so close to what i did .... I kept stock bumpers as is and added a frame / carrier to the frame under the bumper to chassis.
The closing mechanism might need changing but so far works well. Also add a metal plate at the top where i can add basket / storage for for flag.
I added a self locking mechanism when the carrier swings open it "locks" in need to pull it out to swing back in.

Apologies for adding the pics, but wanted to share my similar setup

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Getting back to this project. I dry fit all my parts with wood, and got some 2x3x1/8 tube steel for the carrier itself. Got it all cut up today and ready to weld it tomorrow.

Full disclosure, I’m not a metal guy, so the cutting and welding is all new to me today. All good though. Cutting went great and I got some practice tonight on the welder. I think I’m ready.

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@gvtxcruiser ... Looks great! I also wanted to keep my stock bumper in making a swing-out. Looks like you're following a similar path with the extension from the frame rail, out to the side, and to the end of the metal part of the bumper... My overall swing-out has seemed plenty sturdy doing this, even on some pretty rough trails. And your mockup looks great... I wish I had done a bit more of that before starting to cut/weld.

A couple of suggestions from my experience... Consider tilting the top part of the vertical support post, where it carries the tire, toward the back hatch. I didn't at first, and the tire looked like it was tilting away from the truck, even though it was vertical/plumb with the ground. I ended up cutting a small wedge out of the back of the vertical post and "bending" (with a sledge hammer... :cool:) the top of the post a few degrees in toward the hatch, and then fill-welding the remaining gap, once the wedge space was closed together. Similarly, I realized after a year or so, that the farm-jack also looked odd standing straight up (as it is in this photo), and have since done something similar to get the jack leaning a bit further in toward the truck's back hatch... Both definitely take some finesse, so the swing-out doesn't bump into the back door on the trail (mine does very occasionally... I'm thinking of adding a rubber bumper at one critical spot).

And a last thing to check before you go all-in on the welding... that I got lucky with(!)... Make sure, that when the swing-out is fully open (at least), that the top hatch lid (and the tailgate, of course), can both open fully (...with the tire on!)... I did check the tailgate clearance just after tack welding it together, but didn't think to check the hatch in relation to the tire, once mounted, after I tilted the tire in. I got very lucky, as the top hatch clears the back of the 33" tire by about an inch... any deeper rims or wider tire, and it might not have... Yikes!

Hope all goes well with your build of your swing-out!

Here's the back of Beastly, and the swing-out, after tilting the tire, but before tilting the jack (... and before finishing it's current nice blue paint job... now Beastly is all the same color as the front fender and roof in this photo)...
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I have found that many of the spindle manufacturers that I had previously researched when I started designing this build are no longer in business. AtoZ Fabrication had a "mega spindle" that I had intended to use, but can no longer find it. I have been looking at the TMR Customs spindle and one from EMS Offroad. After watching a YouTube video from Dirt Lifestyle, I think I'll be getting the EMS model and see how it goes.

The tube steel that will be behind the bumper is 5" tall, but the bottom portion of the spindle is only 4", and I need to leave it a little high for the end cap clearance. With the spindle being 1 1/4" diameter, I am thinking about getting a slightly larger diameter piece of tube steel, that is 5" long, to sleeve the spindle and get the full 5" weld on the outrigger from the frame. I will drill some holes in the sleeve and puddle weld to the spindle.

I have the carrier frame all welded up and will have to wait a week for the spindle to arrive.
 
The spindles and wheel for the spare came yesterday. I also picked up some 2x5 tube steel for the outriggers off of the frame.

I got the spindle from EMS Off-road, off of amazon. I saw another fabricator doing some overlander builds with this spindle and found some good reviews. The wheel of a D-window from Jeggs.

I’ll do some last minute mock-up of the outriggers with wood, then start that fabrication later today.

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Alright sports fans, I’ve spent the entire day on fitment of the spindle and bumper. I’ve settled on position and cut the driver side outrigger.

NOTE- for the swing out frame, I will need to make an offset piece between the spindle and the carrier frame to push it out away from the body. I will do some additional reinforcing as I weld it, and will provide photos as it goes.

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I got the driver side outrigger and spindle welded on. I will need to do some more clean-op on the welds and plan on putting a gusset plate inside the tube behind the spindle to get more weld. I am able to move the truck pretty good by grabbing the spindle post, and don’t notice any flexing.

I am realizing that this is a pretty extensive build, especially for a beginner, but fun. I will ultimately combine all my build videos into one and publish for a start to finish.

There wasn’t much room to weld the tube to the frame on rhe backside, so it is pretty much a ind weld, but I’m not getting any light to shine through when checking penetration.

Next step will be to make a small modification to the carrier frame itself, a 22.5deg offset, and weld it to the spindle.

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I got the driver side outrigger and spindle welded on. I will need to do some more clean-op on the welds and plan on putting a gusset plate inside the tube behind the spindle to get more weld. I am able to move the truck pretty good by grabbing the spindle post, and don’t notice any flexing.

I am realizing that this is a pretty extensive build, especially for a beginner, but fun. I will ultimately combine all my build videos into one and publish for a start to finish.

There wasn’t much room to weld the tube to the frame on rhe backside, so it is pretty much a ind weld, but I’m not getting any light to shine through when checking penetration.

Next step will be to make a small modification to the carrier frame itself, a 22.5deg offset, and weld it to the spindle.

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Do you think you’ll need any support from that frame rail to the center? With the carrier wide open there may be some decent flex. But…. The body mount right there and bumper back on should stiffen it up.

Do you plan to still run the bumper end caps? They will likely need a lot of trimming inside.
 
Do you think you’ll need any support from that frame rail to the center? With the carrier wide open there may be some decent flex. But…. The body mount right there and bumper back on should stiffen it up.

Do you plan to still run the bumper end caps? They will likely need a lot of trimming inside.
all good questions that i have been considering. I will put a gussett in the frame channel where the 2x5 "wraps" it, and then though about a gusset on the top and bottom of the 2x5 back onto the frame channel, but will need to trim it to get around the body mount, similar to what you see.

yes, i have the end cap drilled, you'll see the photo of that towards the top. i will need to trim the fins on the inside of the cap as well. also, the fasteners are rusted out, so i need to come up with a nice means of fastening too.
 
all good questions that i have been considering. I will put a gussett in the frame channel where the 2x5 "wraps" it, and then though about a gusset on the top and bottom of the 2x5 back onto the frame channel, but will need to trim it to get around the body mount, similar to what you see.

yes, i have the end cap drilled, you'll see the photo of that towards the top. i will need to trim the fins on the inside of the cap as well. also, the fasteners are rusted out, so i need to come up with a nice means of fastening too.
honestly, i am hoping to get some support from the bumper itself once it is all bolted up. not sure if that is good or not, but thinking.
 
all good questions that i have been considering. I will put a gussett in the frame channel where the 2x5 "wraps" it, and then though about a gusset on the top and bottom of the 2x5 back onto the frame channel, but will need to trim it to get around the body mount, similar to what you see.

yes, i have the end cap drilled, you'll see the photo of that towards the top. i will need to trim the fins on the inside of the cap as well. also, the fasteners are rusted out, so i need to come up with a nice means of fastening too.
I had to bring out the fins. My hardware was rusted and broke so I cut it flush and welded new short bolts on then cut the heads off the bolts. I am only using the top and bottom bolts because there was no way that middle one was going to clear.
 
I welded a gusset plate inside the outrigger tube, behind the spindle post. It made a huge difference. I am still strategizing on how much more support is needed. The hitch receiver frame will tie the frame together across the truck, but I may end up with some angle iron kickers from the spindle back to the frame. Still thinking about that.

I hung 95lbs of weight to relocate the tire tonight. All worked great. Excited to start wrapping this up.

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