What did you do to your pig today? (11 Viewers)

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Thanks for the explanation @bobm !! I have learned a lot over the years and always appreciate any help and still so much to learn. Five years ago I had never even changed my own oil. LOL
 
@DTC72 try flexing it out and see what they look like, I find new springs are usually pretty stiff. Flexing out can be done across a ditch or using car ramps, idea is flex front one direction and rear opposite (ramp at front ds and rear ps etc). Let it sit 4-8hrs each way. All the advice here is correct, but I’d try this and see … then dealer/manufacturer before more.

Tucker
 
looking for options for front

If it were me and the plan is to keep the springs you own then sliders are an option.
Bearing type.
Leaf-Slider.jpg

Bushing type.
iu

Or a leaf spring reversal with the shackle in the rear and build a set of 7" shackles with the pivot up in the frame.
 
If it were me and the plan is to keep the springs you own then sliders are an option.
Bearing type.
Leaf-Slider.jpg

Bushing type.
iu

Or a leaf spring reversal with the shackle in the rear and build a set of 7" shackles with the pivot up in the frame.
Thanks Jim, will discuss with Steve at Northwest design and Fab. He has sliders on his pig
 
Better than the ‘through the frame’ front shackle setup? That’s my favorite 👍🏼
Haven’t seen enough of the long term slider use to have an opinion on them yet.
Through the frame front shackle was a PITA and it works great but not sure it would be my first choice if I was paying someone to do it for me, lots of stuff guys like us do is cool but it's a hard sell to get someone to pay for it when things like sliders exist.
Sliders have been around forever in dirt track racing and I think they are reasonably durable, it’s my understanding they help keep a more constant spring rate throughout the range of motion and I would experiment with lighter springs if I were going to try them (or remove a spring or two from existing spring pack) then move the mounting points around to get my ideal ride height.

That bearing setup looks interesting and would be easy to throw a set of bearings at every 50,000 miles if that’s what it took.
 
Back to the Dobinsons lift =>
1) After driving on the road for a good 30 miles or so the alignment is perfect, the pitman arm pointing forward, tie-rod in great position between the knuckle arms, while the relay rod is now at a greater angle due to the lift physics. Bottom line is I will pull the steering wheel and recenter it.
2) To the @bobm point, the shackles were greased inside the pin with zerk and the outside of the bushings before insertion. To confirm I am getting the correct forward movement, I had my son-in-law bounce on the front bumper while I observed the shackle flexing forward like it should.
3) I will try what @tucker74 suggested on flexing the springs…but honestly I have a hard time believing the springs will flip at this point as they seem pretty stiff…at least compared to the original worn out 1969 leaf springs. That said I am going to give it a try.

My wife and I also plan on driving the pig from Las Vegas to Zion National Park at the end of the month so also hoping a bit of driving on the pavement will also break in the springs some.
 
So apparently whoever installed OME front suspension on my truck did not move perches far enough forward(maybe interference with pto) not sure these were the correct springs either, will need to check after removing
 
So apparently whoever installed OME front suspension on my truck did not move perches far enough forward(maybe interference with pto) not sure these were the correct springs either, will need to check after removing
Pretty sure my front spring hangers have not been moved and IIRC you have to move the rearmost hanger back a couple of inches. @cruiseroutfit
 
Pretty sure my front spring hangers have not been moved and IIRC you have to move the rearmost hanger back a couple of inches. @cruiseroutfit

Correct, front's stay. The rear shackle hanger moves. Net result should similar to this:
 

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