Four months later - LOL
Build A pig for Father's Day
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Do you have any supporting evidence around the speedo cable?
I need to change mine out due to the 5-speed swap.
I went w/ a FJ60 p/n which I hope will do the trick.
A warm, sunny day will increase my motivation to tackle this.
- Thread starter
- #663
What do you need? A photo of the instrument cluster end? Measurements somewhere?
The firewall connection, if you have any pictures.
Thank you!
Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #665
I have some but not showing the lower clip. Both of these are fold over type clips that don't attach so it's not an issue to pull the cable out and/or to pry the clip open with a screwdriver. The first photo shows the firewall grommet for the speedometer cable in red and the choke cable in blue. The clip you can see in the next photo is the upper one. Without measuring, I would say it's a good foot or more below the firewall grommet. The other clip is pretty far down but before the firewall rolls horizontal. I was able to just pull the cable up and out.
- Thread starter
- #667
Lots of discussion around shackle angles the last few days so I thought I would measure mine. The PO had this suspension installed. It's OME shocks and springs and the rear, rear spring hanger is moved a few inches. I therefore assume this is the Cruiser Outfitters 70 series kit that they sell for the 55. If I'm interpreting the "needs to be between 45 and 90 degrees" comments correctly, then I am within that range.
Please forgive my sloppy laptop mouse freehand edits. First photo is the driver's front spring. Second is driver's rear.
Please forgive my sloppy laptop mouse freehand edits. First photo is the driver's front spring. Second is driver's rear.
Angles look great imo
Angles look great imo TOO
- Thread starter
- #671
Well now that we have that settled, back to the dash disassembly. 
- Thread starter
- #672
Spent a bit of time in the shop today. Pulled a few items from around and under the dash including the aftermarket head unit wiring (see photo). That cleared up a bit of space in the confines of the dash. As seemingly sophisticated the install was on the head unit, amp, and speakers, all they did for inline splices was to cut the insulation, wrap the new wire, and use some electrical tape. I mean come on, there's crimp splices for exactly that situation.
At this point I have concluded that the front metal facia of the dash isn't removable; at least it isn't easily removed. I think the top and sides are pinch welded - like end of story. Would love to hear if I just need to yank harder.
I think I need to pull all the AC/ventilation assemblies and then tackle the wiring harness and windshield wipers. Pretty sure the engine bay will be easy compared to the dash area.
At this point I have concluded that the front metal facia of the dash isn't removable; at least it isn't easily removed. I think the top and sides are pinch welded - like end of story. Would love to hear if I just need to yank harder.
I think I need to pull all the AC/ventilation assemblies and then tackle the wiring harness and windshield wipers. Pretty sure the engine bay will be easy compared to the dash area.
- Thread starter
- #673
I had to drill out all 5 of the cowl cover screws. I used the advice from @J Mack which worked very well for most of them but one wouldn't hold a screw after all was said and done. These are M4 screws going into a captive nut on the cowl. Distance from front of cowl metal to back of captive nut is about 7.6mm.
I'm assuming one of these M4 by 6mm helical kits would work just fine? It seems simple enough but I have no experience with these so I though I would take a moment to ask if anyone has any advice.
www.mcmaster.com
I'm assuming one of these M4 by 6mm helical kits would work just fine? It seems simple enough but I have no experience with these so I though I would take a moment to ask if anyone has any advice.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
I think you want to use nutserts (that's what I call them anyways) if you are going into sheet metal.
Take a picture of the area.
- Thread starter
- #675
Upon closer inspection I think you are correct. I can only access the backside of the center one and had incorrectly assumed, without looking, that they were largish captive nuts. They are not. They are the thin ones that are little more than a threaded sleeve with an oval flat piece tacked to the sheet metal. I have an assortment of nutserts and have used them many times. Thanks as always!
- Thread starter
- #676
I will drill that out to the proper size for an M4 nutsert and leave it be until it comes back from the body shop.
Or even just tack a weld in there and re-drill & tapSpot weld T-nuts..
Yes dill out and use a nutsert with the proper grip range.
- Thread starter
- #679
Didn't make it down to the shop until around noon yesterday but had a very productive 3 hours. I can actually see the end of this process now.
I tackled the A/C and heater units which is something I had been putting off for a few days. Like many of these seemingly difficult tasks, it wasn't as bad as I thought when all was said and done. Also finally pulled the front seat with some help from my son. Didn't quite get everything out yesterday. I still need to get the heater hoses disconnected from the front heater. After that I will move over and finish up the steering column followed by the 3 pedal assemblies.
I plan on pulling the steering tube and firewall cover off and then removing the shaft from the yoke that it's attached to on the engine bay side. Looks like a one bolt deal but I'm guessing it won't be that easy to get that shaft to let go.
I tackled the A/C and heater units which is something I had been putting off for a few days. Like many of these seemingly difficult tasks, it wasn't as bad as I thought when all was said and done. Also finally pulled the front seat with some help from my son. Didn't quite get everything out yesterday. I still need to get the heater hoses disconnected from the front heater. After that I will move over and finish up the steering column followed by the 3 pedal assemblies.
I plan on pulling the steering tube and firewall cover off and then removing the shaft from the yoke that it's attached to on the engine bay side. Looks like a one bolt deal but I'm guessing it won't be that easy to get that shaft to let go.
Don’t want to tempt you on mission creep and I don’t remember if you discussed this in your thread, but are you doing anything to the 2F, tranny, tcase or axles while the body is off?