What did you do on your 70 series today? (12 Viewers)

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@saltycoconuts your craftsmanship is better than mine!
Thanks for the offer on some info. Might bug you with a question or two down the road.
Drove it to the grocery store today. Made it there and back In one piece.
 
Tossed a Hallman manual boost controller on the 77 over the weekend. Seems like a nice unit but still need to play around with it.

Upcycled a bracket to have it stand-off Tor's air filter box a bit. Only place I could fit it and still be able to easily adjust.

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The other day, I noted cracks in the fuel feed line. Not leaking yet, but definitely due for immediate replacement.
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Had a local tractor mechanic to rebuild the piece. 20,30€ dead cheap.
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Bleeding the fuellines however was a PITA. It ran for 5-15 sec and then it died again.
It was air in the main fuel line from the tank.
Took me ~15 start attempts to get it running.
Should have followed my own advice, I occasionally gave here: Pull through some 3l of fuel with an external pump until it runs free of bubbles, then reconnect without letting air in, then prime and bleed fuel filter. Would start right up. I need to get a new external pump, as my old one died. Back in business is what matters.
Cheers Ralf
 
following your own advice is the hardest 😄
 
when you find one let me know where... i need one too
 
when you find one let me know where... i need one too
I actually used a cheap waterpump for a powerdrill. 6-8 bugs. Works great for gearoil and diesel. Just need to get creative to get down from the wide garden hose diameter to some size handy for fuellines and filler holes.
After this experience I'm however looking for something small I could put in my vehicle's tool box. Maybe one of these balloon pumps used to prime boat engines...
 
I will be installing the soft top soon, if someone doesn’t step up and buy it!

 
Got some new wheels for the bj74 project aka patina turner.

Truck came with 75 splits basically as rollers. Cool looking but too narrow and don’t want to run tires with tubes.

I was on the hunt for fj cruiser steelies specifically since I’ve always loved how they look on 70’s especially in silver.

Found a guy local BUT he painted them bronze. No biggie since I was doing silver anyway. Couple cans of vht and she’s lookin good.
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@jblueridge from what I read online yes. I put on some 1.25’s all four corners. Didnt try to mount without them but they look good with spacers. They don’t poke out beyond the fender
 
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@jblueridge from what I read online yes. I put on some 1.25’s all four corners. Did try to mount without them but they look good with spacers. They don’t poke out beyond the fender
Spacers required for those?

The likely considerations behind this question might be more functional without spacers;
clearances to tie rod ends and calipers
clearance/contact of front tires to frame during max turn
clearance/contact of rear tires to inner wheel well at max compression
 
Got to have my wife pull me out of the fuel island at the gas station. Was able to pop the clutch and start it once I was rolling.

Thought I need a jump-start, had a jump pack, that didn't work, tried jumper cables to one battery and the jump pack on the other, nothing but a 'click'.

Turned out the starter contacts were stuck and subsequently fried.

I had a spare 24v starter on hand, different configuration than mine, so it won't fit, but was able to rob contacts and plunger out of it to get me back up and starting while I look for a rebuild kit.

28100-56181 is the part number for the starter in the truck. I've found some new versions, non-OEM of course and a few hundred bucks. I'm a bit leery of the knock-off ones though.

I've also struck-out on finding a rebuild kit specific to that number but have found some 'Denso' generic kits on Ebay for $10-12, with free shipping. I'm willing to throw $12 away to see if they'll work.

My local auto-electric rebuilder was not too helpful, but I my take the old parts (plunger and contacts) up there to see if they'd be willing to dig around for spares.

Edit: Gave the local auto-electric guy the Nippon-Denso part number 128000-3080 and he was able to verify that he can get the plunger and contacts for me.
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Spent $200 on an aluminum 6061-T6 2mm thick. Tariffs!!! Will go under the marine vinyl floor since the truck has corrugated floors. Probable bedline it on both sides. One more layer (number 5!!!!).

We did the same for a different reason in a sprinter van to distribute the heat of 4 copper pipes on the heated floor. It works FANTASTIC.
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Spent $200 on an aluminum 6061-T6 2mm thick. Tariffs!!! Will go under the marine vinyl floor since the truck has corrugated floors. Probable bedline it on both sides. One more layer (number 5!!!!).

We did the same for a different reason in a sprinter van to distribute the heat of 4 copper pipes on the heated floor. It works FANTASTIC.
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6061-T6 seems like a very capable alloy and temper for this application. That could have been a significant driver in cost. It is my understanding that Aluminum production is primarily domestic, so I am confused by the tariff reference.

Will the aluminum receive beading to mirror to the corrugations in the floor to increase the surface contact for heat transfer?
 
6061-T6 seems like a very capable alloy and temper for this application. That could have been a significant driver in cost. It is my understanding that Aluminum production is primarily domestic, so I am confused by the tariff reference.

Will the aluminum receive beading to mirror to the corrugations in the floor to increase the surface contact for heat transfer?
Unfortunately we import a large quantity of aluminum, most domestic production is just recycling. Around half of our aluminum consumption is imported.
 

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