TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)

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Hooked up a relay and working fine. I know I should have used a relay to begin with but thinking the lights weren't using a lot of power to startup.....I was wrong.


If it is popping fuses as soon as you hook it up you have a dead short somewhere.
 
So first post on TWT, but on my FJ40 in the past month (ish), I've put caster shims, a new OME steering stabilizer and Ubolts on to correct a steering problem from PO lift. Added a new Champion Radiator to fix a mix of issues (overheating/coolant leaks/cracks etc). Deleted a failing RV A/C system, installed a tuffy center console/radio, rebuilt the driver rear brakes (took a pair of brake spring pliers to the face opening up my right eyebrow for 2 stitches), bled out all lines, rebuilt a Warn 8724, installed a new front bumper w/ the winch, replaced the battery terminals (after discovering that electrical tape was covering about a 1 inch opening in the positive cable to the starter causing the electricals to short and shutdown for no reason) and installed a Jeep seat in the rear so the car seats can face forward. I'm forgetting something in 40 trips to Azone/HF/Napa, but that's a start.

All was going swimmingly until the slave cylinder blew on the clutch Friday while trying to leave my parking garage in uptown CLT. That's 3 hours of towing shenanigans I'll never get back, but it looks like I get a new project in the next few weeks. In the meantime enjoy the pic of my son...proud of his installation work on the Radiator.


C and his radiator.JPG
 
That is some serious wrenching and your writing is amazing for such a small guy.
 
I got my motivation from a @jamesurq post on the last page. Hi Lift mounting morning! Yeah...stretching on this one since I didn't do anything else. I guess I should be working on blasting and painting the bumper instead.

IMG_9112.jpg
 
All was going swimmingly until the slave cylinder blew on the clutch Friday while trying to leave my parking garage in uptown CLT. That's 3 hours of towing shenanigans I'll never get back, but it looks like I get a new project in the next few weeks. In the meantime enjoy the pic of my son...proud of his installation work on the Radiator.


View attachment 1511678

I spotted your truck getting towed on Kenilworth near Morehead on Friday afternoon/evening on my way to the Knight's Game but I wasn't fast enough to snap a picture for the "You've Been Spotted" thread. That's a great looking truck. Fortunately, a slave cylinder replacement in child's play. Hope to see you around.
 
I spotted your truck getting towed on Kenilworth near Morehead on Friday afternoon/evening on my way to the Knight's Game but I wasn't fast enough to snap a picture for the "You've Been Spotted" thread. That's a great looking truck. Fortunately, a slave cylinder replacement in child's play. Hope to see you around.

That would have been me. Took another hour to get it into the garage as the tow driver couldn't figure how to unlock the dolly wheels he was towing it with. Used my highlift and jackstands to get it off the towing rig. That's a story for another thread/time
 
That would have been me. Took another hour to get it into the garage as the tow driver couldn't figure how to unlock the dolly wheels he was towing it with. Used my highlift and jackstands to get it off the towing rig. That's a story for another thread/time

At that point I'd just be happy that he got it to your house in one piece! :)
 
Last night after work. Core support was split in a weird place. After this and repairing three of the screwed up factory nutserts, the core support "repairs" were largely done:

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Started working on upper intercooler mounts. I think this is going to work real well, bolting the radiator to the intercooler, and through this bracket, to the top of the core support:

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Put a couple of vertical braces in the core support to restore some of the horizontal strength. Very effective. Smoothed out the lower radiator mounts as well. I thought about spending more time blending and making this look like one piece of steel, but at the end of the day, it's my truck, and this will never be seen. The lower mounts will likely remain in this state until painted and installed:

Mjman1S6I7WZdmjJVriKQ3_CAD7NTOSdm_idszvWSAjyb56Qm3C6b5zQkCLjC93r4RFV3J7Ch7tRmhi7WaLG5D_yJnWybbfIQt-Ky0XWcjpqAEkb8fDDBv5eFQOCx8nShKu6FJkSgciKa-TqXSzHoMSyBf1W2qZfldjKi_2SvJrvPI_8pi7DXsCAJwbTB5uPDSvILy0vvUsLezKgkOwlPop09AeaHjOWMFiRseNV0-rRnYdHCX1hZj6yduSSppgAxFxF8f8z6_XaT5-EEawUEEadZBwMpzSmgQ399dPi-ciVhkIAG4iEYOLz08lRLPRRdCktuLJuqCBu6jahOKcUaAZ_1-SsIidGkq3KoMgjTnk5tmNeSPxe3Rw_El2extw1LZF_nmvmQqTCEdOv9DH2k76AgpzlYj2W8VKHQn1JUJy6UGlLJ4VKUpnnUQuXV8UCIdwnkseKedYlPLXP97gmm_fd97FPEPxjs0okKOKlkhvFqskT8ojQUBm3tM_3FhBFrwlyqXCpCJDxnx58-PlxaMBVeSZlMgSlxcUiTyVesUgTsvGB0jySbstAUbp0wVi9wARgrCsLPPbozuWOB8qtQ4bPVa0Ml9Oq4c24yfyQJTt9cwaaxAaWP6w00wStgfah9R5J6GBcxbCw4JHgSG6db5BG6e4M32iqyQE03QUZnsIbg9Y=w2693-h1998-no


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I was in a 40 recently that had a transfer case shifter that could move between 2 and 4HI with almost no effort. It seemed to hold when driving (in 2WD; didn't try moving it while moving or try 4HI). What's up with it?

Worn out / missing spring detent on the shift rails.
 
New Master Cylinder and Clutch Master Cylinder along with Slave Cylinder (not pictured)...
Now to tackle the poor restarting issues, presumably Carb related as it cranks cold great, stop in while running errands and you've got to crank for about 10 seconds to get it run. Have tried no throttle pumping, one pump, two pumps, choke non/choke and countless combinations.
IMG_6969.jpg
 
New Master Cylinder and Clutch Master Cylinder along with Slave Cylinder (not pictured)...
Now to tackle the poor restarting issues, presumably Carb related as it cranks cold great, stop in while running errands and you've got to crank for about 10 seconds to get it run. Have tried no throttle pumping, one pump, two pumps, choke non/choke and countless combinations.
View attachment 1516664


Best way to deal with a heat soaked carb is put your foot to the floor. Once you hear it start to catch pull your foot out of it so you don't dry rev the engine.

To help prevent it there are a couple things you can do .... insulate fuel line and pull it away from heat sources (marine grade fuel line is good for this because it is twice the thickness of regular line), be sure the heat shield under the carb is in place, and don't run blended fuels.

Also, the pic above is showing you have a carb fan which is built to address just this issue .... be sure it's working.
 
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Agreed. The carb fan seems kind of like an afterthought and I never gave the carb fan much credit until I wired mine up to actually work. The difference it made was amazing! If yours doesn't work, it's probably because of a bad temp sensor (down on the manifold). Pull the wire off the sensor, crimp a ring on it and ground it to the body. The fan will run for exactly 30 minutes after you cut the truck off. It doesn't pull much amperage. It won't pull down your battery and, in fact, is easier on your battery than the extra 4 or 5 engine revolutions your starter has to muscle through to get your hot truck started. I'm a carb fan believer now.
 
Best way to deal with a heat soaked carb is put your foot to the floor. Once you hear it start to catch pull your foot out of it so you don't dry rev the engine.

Will start to give this one a shot until I can trouble shoot the issues.

Agreed. The carb fan seems kind of like an afterthought and I never gave the carb fan much credit until I wired mine up to actually work. The difference it made was amazing! If yours doesn't work, it's probably because of a bad temp sensor (down on the manifold). Pull the wire off the sensor, crimp a ring on it and ground it to the body. The fan will run for exactly 30 minutes after you cut the truck off. It doesn't pull much amperage. It won't pull down your battery and, in fact, is easier on your battery than the extra 4 or 5 engine revolutions your starter has to muscle through to get your hot truck started. I'm a carb fan believer now.

Thanks. Nearly certain the carb fan doesn't work as it's never even cut on, so will try your method. How does it regulate the 30 minutes? Internal timer?
 
Will start to give this one a shot until I can trouble shoot the issues.



Thanks. Nearly certain the carb fan doesn't work as it's never even cut on, so will try your method. How does it regulate the 30 minutes? Internal timer?

Relay and temp sensor. I believe it will either run for 30 minutes or less if the temp drops below a certain threshold.
 
And if u do that and it still doesn't work, you can hunt for the hidden fuse that mr. T never wanted anyone to find. It's an inline fuse Hidden behind some yellow tape tucked up behind the heater behind the dash knobs.

That one took me some time to figure out...

Agreed. The carb fan seems kind of like an afterthought and I never gave the carb fan much credit until I wired mine up to actually work. The difference it made was amazing! If yours doesn't work, it's probably because of a bad temp sensor (down on the manifold). Pull the wire off the sensor, crimp a ring on it and ground it to the body. The fan will run for exactly 30 minutes after you cut the truck off. It doesn't pull much amperage. It won't pull down your battery and, in fact, is easier on your battery than the extra 4 or 5 engine revolutions your starter has to muscle through to get your hot truck started. I'm a carb fan believer now.
A
 
And if u do that and it still doesn't work, you can hunt for the hidden fuse that mr. T never wanted anyone to find. It's an inline fuse Hidden behind some yellow tape tucked up behind the heater behind the dash knobs.

That one took me some time to figure out...


A

Tried the sensor/ground bypass no luck. Fan does work however as I ran it straight o the battery. Next step is to search for the mysterious 5 amp fuse. Or wire up a toaster timer to it.
 
@GLTHFJ60 What is the spring detent that you mentioned? The 40 @JohnVee mentioned was mine

On the shift rail, in the transfer case, there are detent springs and balls that notch the shifter into place once you're in gear. If you can shift with little to no effort, your spring detent are worn out (specifically the springs) or missing altogether.
 

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