TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)

[NC LX]

Wife asked me if I would help a co workers husband with his check engine light so he could pass inspection. He Moved from Colorado a short time ago so his wife cold take a job at the hospital.

He showed up in a white 97 80. I knew if I couldn't help him I may have a few friends who could.

Anyways. Just wrapped up defeating a po401 code. Cleaned the throttle body, replaced vacuum lines. Replaced the VSV. Consumed Beer. Plugs/Wires. Beer. Told him about the club.

 

[Rice]

Another non Toyota deal but I'm still posting so I can give @Roxx thanks for his time and advice.

A.C. crankcase heater went kerfluey. Up and running again. Thanks man.

 

[ROBsSON]

Got the valve cover off for the first time today what do you guys think? Honestly I was excepting it to be alittle dirtier!

 

[fourtrax]

looks like it should

 

[ROBsSON]

I'm glad chasing something making it idle weird and backfire I think it might be in the carb or a vacuum leak but I wanted to do the valves anyway but hopefully it'll be on the road again soon.

 

[tstepp920]

Will you adjust the valves while it is running or just after it is warm? I have never adjusted valves and am getting conflicting instructions.

 

[weejub]

Not running . .

Your FSM should have warm or cold specs for valves.

Can only speak to the 22RE, but it had warm specs, but several folks had cold specs, too.

 

[roadstr6]

Will you adjust the valves while it is running or just after it is warm? I have never adjusted valves and am getting conflicting instructions.

You get conflicting info because there are 50 different ways to do this job and they all work fine. There is no "correct" procedure...only a correct end result. You can check them while running or not. Trying to actually adjust them while running would be difficult. You can adjust them one at a time or six at a time, depending on whether you are using the top dead center method. I don't bother with finding TDC. I get the engine good and hot, check for out of spec valves while running, make a note of which valves need adjustment, stop engine, pull coil wire, have a helper to bump the starter until the rocker of the valve I am adjusting is off the valve and adjust it.

Most of the time I find that the intake valves are good but the exhaust valves tend to tighten up a smidge over time. This is because the exhaust valve is subjected to more heat and the valve tends to hammer itself further into its seat. Usually you are only adjusting three or four valves that have gotten out of spec. If you screw this up, it is better to err on the loose side than the tight side.

 

[Rice]

You get conflicting info because there are 50 different ways to do this job and they all work fine. There is no "correct" procedure...only a correct end result. .

50 ways = agree!

BTW, I adjust solid lifters on a non running cold engine. With iron block and iron heads add .002" lash to both intake and exhaust. This way I don't have the engine changing temps on me while I adjust and can take my time.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

50 ways = agree!

BTW, I adjust solid lifters on a non running cold engine. With iron block and iron heads add .002" lash to both intake and exhaust. This way I don't have the engine changing temps on me while I adjust and can take my time.

Same. Much easier.

 

[ROBsSON]

Will you adjust the valves while it is running or just after it is warm? I have never adjusted valves and am getting conflicting instructions.

I let it warm up then did it, just went step by step on everything out of the book turns out everything was .008 across the board so I made my changes and it is doing better in still having an issue with the AC idle up though.

 

[roadstr6]

AC idle up gets its vacuum power through the idle up VSV on the DS fender. If the VSV is bad, it won't allow vacuum to travel through it to the idle up diaphragm. You can easily check the VSV function by removing the vacuum line from the diaphragm , switching on the ac and putting your finger on the end of the vacuum line to feel for suction. No sucky, no idle up. There is at least one other VSV that can be scavenged from a desmog and re-used as the idle up VSV. My idle up VSV went bad and I tested several of the ones I had removed. I found one that worked the same except in reverse. I can't remember if I switched the electrical connections or the vacuum hose positions but one way or the other, I got it to work. Got any of those old VSV's in your parts bin or still hanging around unused on your DS fender?

 

[ROBsSON]

Well actually the one on my fender might be good still did some reading and since I'm running a Weber carb it doesn't really have an idle up at least that I've seen so far most seems to be that people just find that happy idle setting. It's been a confusing mess because the Desmog was done and the Weber was added but most of the vacuum lines and solenoids are all still there.

 

[roadstr6]

No love for the Weber here. Can't help you with that other than to say that I believe you only need the one vacuum line from the carb to the dizzy. Idle it up to about 1K and your compressor should be able to keep up fairly well at stop lights. Good luck.

IMO Trollhole carb is the way to go on a desmogged 2F. If you get tired of fiddling with the Weber, don't hesitate to go with the Trollhole carb. I've had good luck with them on two of my trucks.

 

[ROBsSON]

Haha there's seems to be little love for the Weber anywhere. This is my first experience with a Weber carb we'll see how it goes hoping to get it running right it idles between 800-1200rpms just very rough going to try to baseline it and adjust from there. Yes the only vacuum line I've seen actually used after looking at my truck last night was the dizzy line.

Trollhole will likely be the route I go if I can't get it right. Your not the first to suggest his carb and I've heard a lot of good things about it.

 

[Rice]

Haha there's seems to be little love for the Weber anywhere. This is my first experience with a Weber carb we'll see how it goes hoping to get it running right it idles between 800-1200rpms just very rough going to try to baseline it and adjust from there. Yes the only vacuum line I've seen actually used after looking at my truck last night was the dizzy line.

Trollhole will likely be the route I go if I can't get it right. Your not the first to suggest his carb and I've heard a lot of good things about it.

A quick test .... If running rough at idle pull off the brake booster vacuum line with the engine running (i.e. give it a vacuum leak). If the RPM's ramp up you know it's running rich and that *&%$ weber is over jetted and dumping in too much fuel. If the engine chokes out the mixture isn't too bad and the problem is elsewhere.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Webers are easy my man, easy peasy. Much easier than tuning a Toyota style carb, even easier to rebuild. I had an opportunity to rebuild, rejet and tune a weber carb on a 2F in a 60 1.5 years ago and I had it running as well, if not better, than an Aisn carb.

Your symptom is that it idles between 800-1200rpm, but it idles rough, or it's rough off-idle?

Have you measured your manifold vacuum since you did the valve adjustment? That's step #1.

 

[ROBsSON]

A quick test .... If running rough at idle pull off the brake booster vacuum line with the engine running (i.e. give it a vacuum leak). If the RPM's ramp up you know it's running rich and that *&%$ weber is over jetted and dumping in too much fuel. If the engine chokes out the mixture isn't too bad and the problem is elsewhere.

I'll give that a shot and see how it goes once I get it back home gotta clean up some of my cruiser mess left it all on the side of the house wife wasn't to excited about how much junk was all over the yard.

Webers are easy my man, easy peasy. Much easier than tuning a Toyota style carb, even easier to rebuild. I had an opportunity to rebuild, rejet and tune a weber carb on a 2F in a 60 1.5 years ago and I had it running as well, if not better, than an Aisn carb.

Your symptom is that it idles between 800-1200rpm, but it idles rough, or it's rough off-idle?

Have you measured your manifold vacuum since you did the valve adjustment? That's step #1.

I'm looking forward to rebuilding this then I did two Asin carbs on my last 60 not as fun as some people make it out to be...
but it is just rough as it idles and while it idles it fluctuates between 800-1200rpms and (apologize is this if a dumb question) by off idle do you mean as it picks up when I give it some gas? If so then no it runs smooth and quiet.

No vacuum check yet still unpacking tools from when we moved out here

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Not a dumb question. Off-idle means revved up, aka your foot on the throttle, so good answer

So at idle it "hunts" between 800 and 1200rpms. Rice's test is a good quick check for a rich condition. To find a vacuum leak, or identify if you have one, you can use a can of brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray around the base of the carb+intake. If the idle changes when spraying, then you've got a leak somewhere/


When you're ready to rebuild the carb, I can send you the jet sizes you need to put in to run optimally at our elevation. I can't remember them offhand, but I can look it up pretty easily as long as you can tell me which model you have (32/36 or 38/38 DGAS, most likely)

 

[ROBsSON]

Ok sweet we'll at least I got the idea lol

Yeah I'm getting some stuff from the Walmart one of the wiper blades came off while I was going to school today so I'll grab some cleaner so I can do both vacuum test and see if the carb is leaking.

Awesome thank you! it'll be probly a month or so while I mess with the other issues but it's a 38/38 I've been thinking about if it would need different jets for the elevation since the HAC isn't hooked up to anything.