Builds Turbo 1FZFE FZJ80 Build

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30% loss, wow! I'm part time but the loss is still pretty significant.

Thanks for the info.
 
Really, unless you invest in the whole kit including upgraded injectors, fuel pump and computer, you're still going to be paying a lot of money and not even get close to the reliable performance of a properly setup system.

Sure, we all have budgets to work with I'm one of those people that can only afford to to the job properly first time, as I can never afford to do the job twice. I took my cruiser for a blast yesterday... seriously, it's awesome.
Fuel pump definitely needs to be upgraded along with a turbo kit, but that is a small cost. the computer, injectors, and electronics can be left 100% stock though up until a certain point. This is why we're doing all of the R&D and testing before hand before offering mail order kits, to make sure that people can reliably bolt the "kit" they've purchased onto their truck and drive it with peace of mind.

This question is for those of you with dyno runs: would you say that a NA engine puts about 120hp and 180 ft-lb of torque at around 3,000 rpm? If so, we're all dragging arse! I don't know about others, but my rpms mostly stay below 3,000 rpm and this is where I'd like to see a bump in hp & torque values.

I believe our engines are rated 212 hp at 4300 rpm? Obviously my engine will never see those hp as I don't drive at those rpms. If we could see 212hp and 250 ft-lb(at rear wheels) at around 2500 rpm, that would satisfy my needs. What is the typical % driveline loss that people tend to use for calcs?
Here is the before/after dyno of our EMSPowered header-back exhaust on a truck with 280k miles on a 100% stock drivetrain with an unopened motor. The dyno doesn't lie. We'll soon be doing back to back dyno's with our FZJ80 headers and turbo kit as well in a few months so that the community has some solid "real" numbers to compare.

fzj80_landcruiser_emspowered_exhaust_dyno.jpg
 
Thanks for the dyno chart, really spells out the power band of the NA rigs and how anemic these things are!
 
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My only concern would be passing smog
Should pass the computerized and "sniffer" portion of any smog test just fine as long as we put one catalytic converter in the exhaust.
 
So how much all-in for everything you did to jamisobe's truck excluding the labor? Is there a package price for everything?
 
SeaDevil said:
So how much all-in for everything you did to jamisobe's truck excluding the labor? Is there a package price for everything?

Good question!
 
Since I am away from my cruiser and kind of having withdrawls thinking about turbo setups I took a little bit of time to do some compressor mapping.

I mapped based off of 4.5L and 400hp at the crank, with about 30% loss at the drivetrain you would see 280hp at the wheels, around 12psi still maintaining factory fueling and computer.

The plots are @ 1000, 2500, 2750, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000rpms

I kind of had my heart set on the Borg Warner EFR Turbo's but they actually did not map well for this truck at the expected levels of boost.

First up is the EFR 7064, it doesn't move enough air to keep it in its efficency range, at anything above 3000rpms

The 7670 would be a great match if you pushed 22lbs of boost to make 550hp at the crank, in fact almost like it was made for this engine that would move the line up to a pressure ratio of 2.5, but since the factory computer or fueling can't support that, it is a little over sized.
EFR7064.webp
EFR7670.webp
 
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So next up I started looking at the Garret GTX turbos

Both of these actually look good, if you are just staying stock and don't plan on turning the turbo up the GTX3076R fits right into the most effecient range of the compressor, and would be my recommnedation.

Again like the Borg Warner the GTX3582R looks really great if you plan on pushing it up to 550-600hp, but is probably just a bit big for the range the stock of the injectors and computer.

There are lots of variables this is all at 150ft above sea level, at high altitudes you might opt for the larger turbo. YMMV.

Ryan
GTX3076R.webp
GTX3582R.webp
 
That 3076 looks really good.

If I turbo mine I am looking at staying with stock fuel and management with 7-8psi and a AWIC.
 
Yeah the GTX3076 would be my choice at the 12psi boost level at 7-8psi it might change. Expected HP at 7.5lbs of boost would be 315 at the crank, so using the 30% loss maybe 220hp at the ground, still a 90hp increase over my stock dyno.
 
Yeah the GTX3076 would be my choice at the 12psi boost level at 7-8psi it might change. Expected HP at 7.5lbs of boost would be 315 at the crank, so using the 30% loss maybe 220hp at the ground, still a 90hp increase over my stock dyno.

Yeah, it may change a bit. I have also been looking at the cheaper end of the turbo world (non BB) and looking closely at the T3/T4 61MM Stage III with a .86 AR turbine. http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-061&Category_Code=TBN

Mainly for cost savings but also for simplicity. I think a turbo in that size range will be good for a low boost 1fz (I have not done any mapping on it though).

A 90-100hp increase is all I am looking for, I do not want to get to the point where I am pushing the envelope to much. I use this for remote travel so reliability is utmost importance.
 
IMOP you guys are so positive about stock ECU / Injectors / Fuel Pump doing well at 12PSI ..

I am not, nor have I said anywhere I was. My boost limit of 7-8psi is set by the fact I will be running stock ECU/Injectors, my fuel pump would be swapped for a MKIV Supra pump. I will also adjust that boost level depending on what I find when the set-up is installed if it cant handle 7psi I will drop to 6psi or vs versa.
 
Tapage, I am not positive, it can be done on the stock ECU, I have heard people at 10psi are still running rich under open loop full fueling. I still maintain the easiest way to make this work is a wideband O2 calibrator and a 7th injector.... I think anything under 10psi would make this not worth the cost to me. It is going to be fairly expensive to do a turbo, wastegate, blow off, turbo manifold, A/W IC, A/W system radiator w/electric fan, storage tank, hoses, plumbing, etc. The returns are going to have to be fairly high for me to justify. 370-400hp at the motor is kind of my required ROI.


IMOP you guys are so positive about stock ECU / Injectors / Fuel Pump doing well at 12PSI ..
 
It is funny I plotted a bunch of turbo's for 8psi and I didn't find anything that was within the turbo's high effeciency range.

I did 6258, 6758, 7064, 2560, 2867, 3071, 3076, I really couldn't find anything that matched. The closest I really saw was something like the GT4088R. Much bigger turbo but pushes the volume of air, at low psi, falls into the 74-76% range. A lot of the other turbo's fell way off the chart.




Yeah, it may change a bit. I have also been looking at the cheaper end of the turbo world (non BB) and looking closely at the T3/T4 61MM Stage III with a .86 AR turbine. http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-061&Category_Code=TBN

Mainly for cost savings but also for simplicity. I think a turbo in that size range will be good for a low boost 1fz (I have not done any mapping on it though).

A 90-100hp increase is all I am looking for, I do not want to get to the point where I am pushing the envelope to much. I use this for remote travel so reliability is utmost importance.
GT4088R@8psi.webp
EFR6758@8psi.webp
 
Yeah, going to hard to find a turbo in its efficiency range at that boost with that size engine. This is kind of a fun project for me if it does not work then my investment is low and I can move forward with the diesel swap I really want.
 

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