Builds Turbo 1FZFE FZJ80 Build (2 Viewers)

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There is no advantage to running an aftermarket regulator on this truck since there is no advantage to adjusting the fuel pressure on the stock ECU.

even if you are running aftermarket pump( walbro 255 ) and bigger injectors .?

Closed loop is determined by engine RPM, throttle position and MAF input. When you are in closed loop the ECU makes trim adjustments based on O2 sensor readings. There is nothing to be done here, the truck should run fine in closed loop just as it did when there was no turbo.

at least down here there is a range while being in closed loop you have ( depending on the AR you choose ) some interesting boost readings ..

Let's imagine you are about 3K rpm boosting 6 - 7 PSI easily engine doing medium effort but still closed loop ..
 
The factory 95-97 fuel pressure regulator is a 1:1 rising rate regulator that is already setup for boosted applications. There is no advantage to running an aftermarket regulator on this truck since there is no advantage to adjusting the fuel pressure on the stock ECU.

The fuel pressure regulator is the same part number for 93-97 1FZ. 23280-75010.
 
The fuel pressure regulator is the same part number for 93-97 1FZ. 23280-75010.

Ah, I didn't know that about hte 93/94. Then it looks like the 93-97 FZJ80's all have the same rising rate 1:1 regulator. You do not need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator on any of these trucks to run forced induction.

even if you are running aftermarket pump( walbro 255 ) and bigger injectors .?
An aftermarket fuel pressure regulator will do the same thing that the stock fuel pressure regulator does. The only benefit you will have is the ability to adjust your BASE fuel pressure higher. But on the stock ECU, that is not a good idea because your factory tune is not expecting a higher base fuel pressure. Both the stock fuel pressure regulator and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator are 1:1 rising rate regulators. That means for every 1psi of additional intake pressure, your fuel pressure rises 1psi as well. at 10psi of intake pressure, you will have 10psi more fuel pressure than what your base pressure is set at. There is no difference in this math whether you're using a stock or aftermarket regulator.

at least down here there is a range while being in closed loop you have ( depending on the AR you choose ) some interesting boost readings ..

Let's imagine you are about 3K rpm boosting 6 - 7 PSI easily engine doing medium effort but still closed loop ..
You're probably referring to a very small turbo like a CT26, GT28RS, etc... too small of a turbo on a large displacement 4.5L motor is just bad news. It will spool up too soon, even when in closed loop. It will always be hitting boost even when cruising (read horrible gas mileage even on the highway). And it will choke the turbine side of the turbo in the higher RPM's when boosting causing big power drop, very high EGT's, and extra stress on your exhaust valves. We're not going to even think about running a turbo that small on a 1FZFE. It's just a bad idea.
 
This is from Denso. I need to find another way into a real person as opposed to the PR person.
It is a sure bet that regardless who you speak to, Denso is legally bound to keep Toyota info private. It is standard business procedure. You MAY have better luck going to Toytoa, but it has been tried before, but no luck. Good luck. John
 
I am not so much looking for specific Toyota info. What I am looking for is, how Denso does the intial tunes. We all know the stock ECU is probably not re-flashable. Therefore the calibration is stored on a chip. I know that they have to have a programmable ECU of some variety to plug into the prototype engines and thus they can do a live calibration.

On a Bosch system they have a "hotrodded" Bosch ECU that is used to do the initial tune. This "hotrodded ECU is simply a hacked Bosch ECU with the capability to to live on the fly tuning. Bosch uses a software interface to allow this hacked ecu to be changed in real time. They use ETAS INCA software for calibration.
http://www.etas.com/en/products/inca_software_products.php



I am just wondering how Denso does a similar calibration development.
 
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I am not so much looking for specific Toyota info. What I am looking for is, how Denso does the intial tunes. We all know the stock ECU is probably not re-flashable. Therefore the calibration is stored on a chip. I know that they have to have a programmable ECU of some variety to plug into the prototype engines and thus they can do a live calibration.

On a Bosch system they have a "hotrodded" Bosch ECU that is used to do the initial tune. This "hotrodded ECU is simply a hacked Bosch ECU with the capability to to live on the fly tuning. Bosch uses a software interface to allow this hacked ecu to be changed in real time. They use ETAS INCA software for calibration.
http://www.etas.com/en/products/inca_software_products.php



I am just wondering how Denso does a similar calibration development.

most 90's and other Toyota ECU's (including the 1fzfe) are made by Fujitsu Ten Ltd in Japan. The only way to tune these ecu's is to use the Techtom daughter board along with their MightyMap software. That stuff has been LONG discontinued by Techtom Japan and is not made anymore. And even if you could get your hands on a Techtom setup for the Toyota ECU's it is really not a very friendly way to tune. You have to burn individual chips, changes can not be made on the fly, etc... It's a pain in the rear end.
 
You're probably referring to a very small turbo like a CT26, GT28RS, etc... too small of a turbo on a large displacement 4.5L motor is just bad news. It will spool up too soon, even when in closed loop

wasn't thinking in any specific turbo really .. but sure a low end boost target .. something that will make full boost at 3K rpm or so ..
 
wasn't thinking in any specific turbo really .. but sure a low end boost target .. something that will make full boost at 3K rpm or so ..
Just so that I know for this conversation's sake. Are you speaking from experience on a particular setup that you had problems with so that we can talk about the exact components used, or are you just saying that you think somehow this might be an issue?
 
Just so that I know for this conversation's sake. Are you speaking from experience on a particular setup that you had problems with so that we can talk about the exact components used, or are you just saying that you think somehow this might be an issue?

it happen with GT35/40 stock all other .. was getting lean mid range RPM
 
it happen with GT35/40 stock all other .. was getting lean mid range RPM

Any chance you have some datalogs of the afr versus boost versus rpm? Would help to collect data on what is actually happening and if its a problem.
 
Well I went and had my before dyno done. I think my truck is a pretty good representative of a well maintained 96-97, 80 series it has recently had all the "tune up" items replaced, new O2 sensors, etc.

It wasn't pretty but on 35's and without regearing, in 97 degrees, A/C on high and with a moderately tuned clutch fan and stock MAF housing it made.....

133hp and 186ft/lbs of torque! Haha

video
http://youtu.be/aG3BkpQeWOM

We tried to run the dyno pulls in 3rd gear I should have an electronic copy emailed to me some time tonight. We weren't able to pull all the way to red line, even with OD off, the truck would shift into 4th around 4750 I think.

It looks like I am not going to be able to get started on this as soon as I wanted because I am leaving Texas for about 3 months, but I look forward to coming back and picking up with the guys at EMS Powered and JMS Racing.
LXDyno.jpg
 
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most 90's and other Toyota ECU's (including the 1fzfe) are made by Fujitsu Ten Ltd in Japan. The only way to tune these ecu's is to use the Techtom daughter board along with their MightyMap software. That stuff has been LONG discontinued by Techtom Japan and is not made anymore. And even if you could get your hands on a Techtom setup for the Toyota ECU's it is really not a very friendly way to tune. You have to burn individual chips, changes can not be made on the fly, etc... It's a pain in the rear end.

Well, if that doesn't significantly complicate my quest for a solution. :mad:

I emailed Technosquare to see if they have any info on the Mighty Map. Burning chips, while far from the best solution, is better than no tuning at all. I started my tuning career burning chips. While I am now spoiled with live tuning, I can get by with it. Maybe I can figure out a way to make it helpful to the rest of the Cruiser community.

Oh, well you live and learn.
 
Any chance you have some datalogs of the afr versus boost versus rpm? Would help to collect data on what is actually happening and if its a problem.

too late .. that end as blown motor about 6 months ago .. :frown:
 
cost install

Can EMS comment on the likely hood of a DIY kit in the next 6 months and if available approx cost? If somehting like this were to come in under $5k, it might be enough to make me keep my cruiser. High altitude and low Horse Power are a bad combo.

Also at the end of the day is a turbo system more reliable and trouble free than going the v8 swap route?

thanks
 
Well I went and had my before dyno done. I think my truck is a pretty good representative of a well maintained 96-97, 80 series it has recently had all the "tune up" items replaced, new O2 sensors, etc.

It wasn't pretty but on 35's and without regearing, in 97 degrees, A/C on high and with a moderately tuned clutch fan and stock MAF housing it made.....

133hp and 186ft/lbs of torque! Haha

video
http://youtu.be/aG3BkpQeWOM

We tried to run the dyno pulls in 3rd gear I should have an electronic copy emailed to me some time tonight. We weren't able to pull all the way to red line, even with OD off, the truck would shift into 4th around 4750 I think.

It looks like I am not going to be able to get started on this as soon as I wanted because I am leaving Texas for about 3 months, but I look forward to coming back and picking up with the guys at EMS Powered and JMS Racing.

Great work Ryan. I'm curious why you were not able to keep it from going into overdrive (4th gear). When we dyno'd my truck we were able to turn off OD and do the dyno in 3rd gear. Looks like your truck is running very healthy and making good power.


Well, if that doesn't significantly complicate my quest for a solution. :mad:

I emailed Technosquare to see if they have any info on the Mighty Map. Burning chips, while far from the best solution, is better than no tuning at all. I started my tuning career burning chips. While I am now spoiled with live tuning, I can get by with it. Maybe I can figure out a way to make it helpful to the rest of the Cruiser community.

Oh, well you live and learn.
Technosquare has long discontinued that stuff too. Your only chance for getting any of that oldschool Techtom stuff is to find it used or pray to the Techtom gods everynight ;)

too late .. that end as blown motor about 6 months ago .. :frown:
Sorry to hear that. We will do as much data logging and collection throughout this process as we can to help create a solid solution for the community.

Can EMS comment on the likely hood of a DIY kit in the next 6 months and if available approx cost? If somehting like this were to come in under $5k, it might be enough to make me keep my cruiser. High altitude and low Horse Power are a bad combo.

Also at the end of the day is a turbo system more reliable and trouble free than going the v8 swap route?

thanks
Yes, it will definitely be available soon as a mail order kit. The base cost of the kit will be lower than that. A turbo 1FZFE will make more power and torque than a V8 any day of the week, it will be more reliable (on a motor that has been properly maintained). And a turbo'd 1FZFE with our kit is far less complicated than a V8 swap.
 
Yeah I am not sure why we couldn't either, its not a huge deal I don't think you would seen any more hp or torque, that last 250rpms on the dyno graph, but it was definitely up shifting at 4750, the guys even pulled your dyno graphs up and yours went just a hair over 5000. What size tires were you running when you did your dyno?

Thanks!


Great work Ryan. I'm curious why you were not able to keep it from going into overdrive (4th gear). When we dyno'd my truck we were able to turn off OD and do the dyno in 3rd gear. Looks like your truck is running very healthy and making good power.
 
Yeah I am not sure why we couldn't either, its not a huge deal I don't think you would seen any more hp or torque, that last 250rpms on the dyno graph, but it was definitely up shifting at 4750, the guys even pulled your dyno graphs up and yours went just a hair over 5000. What size tires were you running when you did your dyno?

Thanks!

I was on stock size tires. That is why you see the difference in torque on my dyno versus yours.
 
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Sorry to hear that. We will do as much data logging and collection throughout this process as we can to help create a solid solution for the community..

I ( though we ) appreciate it .. let me know if I can do something .. I have access to wide band gauge if you need some data from wife FZJ80 .. ( manual tranny and kinda weird OBDI ECU in there .. )

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