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Since I’m not driving the 570 every day I wanted to protect the battery in the event that it sits for a couple of weeks. This week in installed a Noco Genius single bank 4 amp onboard charger.
It’s pretty uncomplicated. Works as expected.
I don’t love the mounting location to be honest. With my ARB fridge hard wire, compressor, and now the NOCO my terminals are pretty messy.
Would love advice on how to clean this up. I’m familiar with the blue sea panels, but to my understanding, the compressor would exceed the max current.
Any suggestions?
I'm still loving the black fog light surround you did. Got to find the time to do the same thing on mine!
The ARB Twin is rated for a max draw of 60amps, so I'd keep it hooked up directly to the battery. The other accessories should go through a dedicated fuse or fuse+relay block. BlueSea makes fine products; I used a Bussman (see my build thread) for a fuse + relay combo. Really like it.
You can also look into Military Battery Terminals. They provide slightly nicer connection options than just straight to battery terminal.
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- #163
Hey thanks I noticed that Slee sells those with extensions. Might give that a try.
I rattled canned the surrounds but I’m going to wrap them when I get some down time. They look good at a distance but didn’t turn out as good as I had hoped. Still beats the bling though.
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- #164
what kind of crimper do you have for the lugs?
Amazon product ASIN B00E1UUVT0
You're welcome to borrow it and anything else I have left. I have a few short pieces of 1/0 some lugs etc.
Works best with the five lb sledge.
I also bought the 1/0 2.5 ft of red/black plus shrink kit and some 4 gauge.
Honestly overkill, but I'll not have to do it again if I add a 2nd battery, or a fridge or a winch (though I am way off the winch plan at the moment).
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- Thread starter
- #166
Nothing much new in the last couple of months except a set of weathertech window visors (awesome BTW).
I glanced down and my odometer and realized that I’m about 5k miles into the STT Pros
Off-road:
These tires are just animals aired down. They roll over anything and ride super plush AT 18 psi. This past weekend I was in gumbo-style mud and didn’t even notice until I got out. Once out they self cleared and it was like it didn’t happened. I just get such a grin with these on dirt. also Also they look awesome.
On road:
I read hundreds of reviews on these tires before buying and they all pointed out that they are “extremely quiet for an MT.” That’s code for: much louder than an AT but quieter than an Irok.
If you are considering an MT for your daily, just be ready. They are heavy and no getting around the increase in noise.
Now, it’s not all bad. They perform great in the rain and don’t thump and load speeds. Above 65mph they quiet down. I can’t say I have noticed any change in MPG.
I don’t daily my LX anymore so I’m comfortable with the compromises that come with such a bullet proof tire.
I glanced down and my odometer and realized that I’m about 5k miles into the STT Pros
Off-road:
These tires are just animals aired down. They roll over anything and ride super plush AT 18 psi. This past weekend I was in gumbo-style mud and didn’t even notice until I got out. Once out they self cleared and it was like it didn’t happened. I just get such a grin with these on dirt. also Also they look awesome.
On road:
I read hundreds of reviews on these tires before buying and they all pointed out that they are “extremely quiet for an MT.” That’s code for: much louder than an AT but quieter than an Irok.
If you are considering an MT for your daily, just be ready. They are heavy and no getting around the increase in noise.
Now, it’s not all bad. They perform great in the rain and don’t thump and load speeds. Above 65mph they quiet down. I can’t say I have noticed any change in MPG.
I don’t daily my LX anymore so I’m comfortable with the compromises that come with such a bullet proof tire.
- Thread starter
- #167
The paint predictably didn’t last. I tried my hand at vinyl and very happy with the results. Took 4 tries before something I was happy with. I was surprised how forgiving vinyl was once heat was applied.
Before
4th try
finished product
dubyahard
SILVER Star
I'm thinking of doing this to the fog light buckets too. Looks like it will blend once it's dirty/clean at the same time.
I'd like to do all the door handles, side trim, window trim and tail light surround too. I would leave some as I don't really want the "murdered out" look.
I'd like to do all the door handles, side trim, window trim and tail light surround too. I would leave some as I don't really want the "murdered out" look.
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- #169
Same. I'd like to do window trim, door handles, and license place/backup light chrome.
I experimented with the hitch cover yesterday just to practice. The deeply convex or concave shapes are really challenging for my novice hands. Getting the vinyl to wrap is easy with heat but I ended up with a bunch of "micro wrinkles" where the wrap sticks to itself and no amount of stretching or squeegieing will get it out.
More practice required.
What kind of vinyl are you using? If you aren't using it, get wrapping vinyl. It has air channels in the adhesive and is easier to work with than sign vinyl.
A trick when wrapping tricky corners is to preheat and pre-stretch the vinyl. Like if you are doing the mirror, take a piece about 1' x 1' and have someone hold the heat gun moving back and forth on the vinyl and then stretch it both ways to make it about 15" x 15" then let it cool. Place on the mirror housing and wrap as much as you can smoothly then hit it with the heat gun. It will shrink back up and then you can wrap the rest.
Here are some pics from when a buddy and I wrapped my ES
This is the thread
(realized my link just went to the same pic. Fixed now)
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- Thread starter
- #171
heck yes thank you! I’m using 3m 1080 air release vinyl. Sounds like I need a second set of hands.
After you dropped some knowledge about AHC over on expedition portal I had to come check out your build thread here. Nice LX! I'm glad you are pretty happy with it offroad in basically stock form - it looks like AHC lift, tires, and storage solutions are all you really needed to add.
Do you mind sharing how much it cost you to replace the AHC struts? Refreshing the suspension after 100k sounds pretty normal, but I'm not sure what's available for compatible aftermarket stuff or if you have to go with OEM to retain the AHC?
From your build and other builds/reviews, it sounds like I'd be happy with the LX platform in mostly stock form (which is a bit of a refreshing change from my '12 Tacoma and wife's '07 FJC... both of which have about the same $$ in mods as the vehicles cost new)
Do you mind sharing how much it cost you to replace the AHC struts? Refreshing the suspension after 100k sounds pretty normal, but I'm not sure what's available for compatible aftermarket stuff or if you have to go with OEM to retain the AHC?
From your build and other builds/reviews, it sounds like I'd be happy with the LX platform in mostly stock form (which is a bit of a refreshing change from my '12 Tacoma and wife's '07 FJC... both of which have about the same $$ in mods as the vehicles cost new)
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- #173
Thanks so much for dropping in! The Land Cruiser and LX each have their own strengths and weaknesses depending on how you intend on using them. By far my favorite part of having an LX is just as you pointed out—throw on some tires and you've got a rig that is instantly very capable.
I don't remember exact numbers, but I paid around $500 for new oem struts and about $800 in labor and fluid at my local independent Japanese shop. It was honestly not that exciting. THe truck rode (and still does) really well. Although I will point out, I had no negative symptoms even with the leak. Fluid loss was almost not noticeable.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
I replaced front and rear struts on mine as well (I think cost was similar-ish). What I ended up finding was the worst part of it was the rears where access is not easy. Took my shop 6+hours to do the rears. From what I've found there are almost dogmatic camps on how much to do with AHC fluids...a lot out here (where climate is very dry) don't seem to see any reason to touch it unless it has real issues, but I also know there are many people that are quite insistent to do it.
The other item I had recommended to do (that toyota doesn't list) was regarding steering fluid and getting that flushed in the 100-120k range.
Love your build though @tbisaacs I'm almost in a similar spot with a Black on Tan 2010 LX, so really enjoying seeing everything you've done.
Thanks! That's not bad really.
Regarding LX vs LC.... being in Canada makes the decision an easier one. We have the LX's (although not a lot of them around), but I believe the last Land Cruiser sold here was the 80. Importing from the US is technically an option, but probably not worth the cost and hassle.
I'm thinking adding lockers, 34" tires, and some skid plates/sliders would make an LX a pretty darn good daily driver that's more than capable of towing a couple ATVs into the middle of nowhere for a weekend getaway. My biggest holdup is the new powerplant that should be arriving soon. I like the idea of a more fuel efficient vehicle because it feels like less of an expense to go on a big trip... although in reality it would probably cost more total than buying a used one and just putting more gas in it.
Not just cost more right off the bat, but consider the depreciation you'll be hit with. I bought my '14 LX w/ 38,000km on it, in December 2018, for a hair less than 50% of its original price. Original owner lost some $60k in depreciation over those four years. $60k will buy a lot of gas.
That said, the bad fuel economy has been on my mind lately, too. I barely drive (work from home) and even so, I tend to spend some $300/month on a gas quite regularly. My car is stock, and the best fuel economy I've ever gotten was about 11.5L/100km, over a 1.5hrs driving on mostly-flat roads (Vernon to Kamloops), doing about 100kph. Any speeds over 110kph (or so) and fuel economy drastically falls.
Still an awesome vehicle, but not fun to constantly be at the pumps. What's worse, it seems like the fuel needle shows empty when there's still enough gas to some 100km (on the highway), which results in those gas stops being that much more frequent.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
I think I got confirmation at one point that this is just a toyota thing...appears to consistently show 'empty' when there are 5gals left
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
Is that the 'Glossy Black' you used to match? Looks like there are a few options from 3M
The most amount of fuel I was able to put in the tank was 76 liters and that was with driving like ~20km after the needle being at empty position. That said, the specs say the fuel tank is 93 liters which is not really in-line with the fuel gauge behavior!
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- #180
Yep, glossy blak
