Builds Trapper50's Build Thread - 99 UZJ100 "Penny"

[kevgentile]

Interesting...thanks for the suggestion.
I drove it around the neighborhood tonight with a couple wide open stretches of highway included to see
if I could recreate the failure but it ran perfectly.

Once I got mine running I drove it for a few days, tallied up a few hundred miles so I thought I was good.
Then one day at the store it decided to not fire. I still had the access plate off so I could quickly get to the pump again. Tap tap and fire. I decided to r&r the pump

 

[Trapper50cal]

Once I got mine running I drove it for a few days, tallied up a few hundred miles so I thought I was good.
Then one day at the store it decided to not fire. I still had the access plate off so I could quickly get to the pump again. Tap tap and fire. I decided to r&r the pump

So when you say Fuel Pump ECU, do you mean the control module? Where is that located?

Edit: No, you don't mean that...ECM is Electronic Control Module I'm guessing...
So is the ECU at the fuel pump then?
I'm asking questions as I'm researching...

 

[Trapper50cal]

Looks like ECM is in back cargo area behind driver side panel

 

[Trapper50cal]

I'm wondering how many bases I'd be covering by replacing Control Module, Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump...
I am NOT wiring/meter/circuit/etc. certified. That would be new territory.

 

[kevgentile]

I'm wondering how many bases I'd be covering by replacing Control Module, Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump...
I am NOT wiring/meter/circuit/etc. certified. That would be new territory.

Correct, the pump ecu is behind the left rear cargo panel. Bolted at the c-pillar next to the tail light.
The manual has a very simple meter check and worth looking into at the next no start situation. There is one measurement that requires the motor to turn over and without long meter cords it can be a pain without an extra set of hands. But again, it's a rather simple check.

Your issue could be any number of things which is why I suggested metering ecu's, ecm's, sensors, and first and foremost, observing the live data from your diagnostics.

The one thing I've noticed with this platform is a we won't always get an engine fault code when there is a problem. So being able to diag is important.
Don't throw parts at an unknown problem, gets pricey fast. I'm more than happy helping out over the forum and directing which direction and steps to take to find a solution.

Since the truck is running ok now, I would get plugged in and observe the live data and screen shot or jot the info down so you have a general baseline.
Once it acts up you can plug in and compare. It may not always tell the whole story but it's at least a start.

Let me know if I can help in any way.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Thanks @kevgentile

 

[Trapper50cal]

Correct, the pump ecu is behind the left rear cargo panel. Bolted at the c-pillar next to the tail light.
The manual has a very simple meter check and worth looking into at the next no start situation. There is one measurement that requires the motor to turn over and without long meter cords it can be a pain without an extra set of hands. But again, it's a rather simple check.

Your issue could be any number of things which is why I suggested metering ecu's, ecm's, sensors, and first and foremost, observing the live data from your diagnostics.

The one thing I've noticed with this platform is a we won't always get an engine fault code when there is a problem. So being able to diag is important.
Don't throw parts at an unknown problem, gets pricey fast. I'm more than happy helping out over the forum and directing which direction and steps to take to find a solution.

Since the truck is running ok now, I would get plugged in and observe the live data and screen shot or jot the info down so you have a general baseline.
Once it acts up you can plug in and compare. It may not always tell the whole story but it's at least a start.

Let me know if I can help in any way.

Yeah, there are more than a few components in the system...I was just reading up on TPS/APPS situations as well.

When you say "get plugged in and observe the live data" are you speaking of techstream or some OBD2 reader?

I don't relish the idea of firing a "parts canon" at it...

 

[ClassyJalopy]

If I was a betting man, I'd bet on your fuel pump getting ready to soil the bed.
Any idea how old it might be?

 

[kevgentile]

Yeah, there are more than a few components in the system...I was just reading up on TPS/APPS situations as well.

When you say "get plugged in and observe the live data" are you speaking of techstream or some OBD2 reader?

I don't relish the idea of firing a "parts canon" at it...

Yes sir, techstream or any obd II device that has the ability to read data. Some "generic" readers have the ability to read more sensors than others.

A multimeter goes a long way in understanding and solving problems. The manuals give all the recommended volts and ohms, however; there are a few discrepancies that can tie you up.

 

[Trapper50cal]

If I was a betting man, I'd bet on your fuel pump getting ready to soil the bed.
Any idea how old it might be?

Well, it might be 25 years old...but IDK.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Okay...so...

The previous owner @shellb had included a NIB fuel pump with the truck and I knew I had it in the shed.
I rolled up my sleeves and swapped it in there to see if that would fix the "crank no start"

I tried 3 or 4 time to start it prior to digging in to it and it did not start.
After swapping out the fuel pump, it fired up right away.

I hope that's not just anecdotal inference that that was the problem.

No sure on the quality of the fuel pump but now I can buy an OEM one and install that.

 

[shellb]

Okay...so...

The previous owner @shellb had included a NIB fuel pump with the truck and I knew I had it in the shed.
I rolled up my sleeves and swapped it in there to see if that would fix the "crank no start"

I tried 3 or 4 time to start it prior to digging in to it and it did not start.
After swapping out the fuel pump, it fired up right away.

I hope that's not just anecdotal inference that that was the problem.

No sure on the quality of the fuel pump but now I can buy an OEM one and install that.

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Most excellent! I'm usually a die hard OEM parts guy but bought that when I was stranded in the mountains due to no start...was the best thing I could find!

Then of course it just fired right back up the next day and never returned.

I really hope this fixes it...I can chip in on OEM replacement!

 

[Trapper50cal]

Most excellent! I'm usually a die hard OEM parts guy but bought that when I was stranded in the mountains due to no start...was the best thing I could find!

Then of course it just fired right back up the next day and never returned.

I really hope this fixes it...I can chip in on OEM replacement!

@shellb

Oh, yeah...i figured that. (sourcing the fuel pump)

I think knowing that it fired up with a NIB pump was 4/5ths of the battle because it's the puzzle piece that definitely got it running again.
(knock on wood) and now that I've done it once, it'll be fairly easy to replicate with the OEM one.

You don't need to chip in, you sold me a used car with 285K on it!

 

[Trapper50cal]

Some glams since I took her to the car wash to celebrate getting her running (shake down test run is better with a destination)

 

[kevgentile]

If you want to be sure, throw a meter on the old pump and check the resistance between term 6 & 7 (blk and blk/red wires).
Spec is 0.2-3.0 ohms. Mine was locked up and at 3.7 kilo's. Once I gave it a love tap and running the resistance dropped to 1 ohm.
But even after a few days of uninterrupted driving it locked up again.

It'll give you some extra reassurance knowing the pump is in fact the problem.

 

[Trapper50cal]

If you want to be sure, throw a meter on the old pump and check the resistance between term 6 & 7 (blk and blk/red wires).
Spec is 0.2-3.0 ohms. Mine was locked up and at 3.7 kilo's. Once I gave it a love tap and running the resistance dropped to 1 ohm.
But even after a few days of uninterrupted driving it locked up again.

It'll give you some extra reassurance knowing the pump is in fact the problem.

Nice, that's good to know!

 

[Trapper50cal]

Picked up a plaque for this year and added it to last year's to start the collection.

Geez, I need to vacuum...

 

[Trapper50cal]

Okay, Penny is at Prosise's "Cruiser Ranch" to get an inner CV axle seal replaced...
it keeps blowing them out and that could just be the difficult install or it could
be a clogged or in-op breather valve. So he's looking at that as well.

After that, I've amassed all the parts for a proper fuel pump replacement.
I had originally installed a pump of unknown quality that came with the truck.
During install I lost one of the 8mm black bolts that holds the metal ring down
and I noticed that the both the kick plates were missing a retainer fastener
so I got a couple of those as well.

Delphi pump
Delphi strainer
New pigtail to return to stock
(OEM discontinued-bought Walbro equivalent on ebay #174559300158)
extra 8mm bolts
extra kickplate fasteners
OEM Fuel filter from @cruiserpatch
(Always buy extras when they're small and cheap)

 

[cruiserpatch]

Okay, Penny is at Prosise's "Cruiser Ranch" to get an inner CV axle seal replaced...
it keeps blowing them out and that could just be the difficult install or it could
be a clogged or in-op breather valve. So he's looking at that as well.

Speaking of CV axle seals…just released this Toyota 4WD IFS CV axle seal driver Special Service Tool 09550-00032 re - https://www.cruiserpatch.com/products/toyota-4wd-ifs-cv-axle-seal-driver-special-service-tool-09550-00032-replic

 

[Trapper50cal]

Turns out it wasn't the inner seal or pressure build up from clogged breather...just a snake bite on the inner boot.

Edit: Oh, yeah...the above is a screen cap of the video Prosise sent me, don't try to push play...nothing will happen.