Builds Trapper50's Build Thread - 99 UZJ100 "Penny" (3 Viewers)

[Trapper50cal]

New rear wiper arm and blade - JDM "Prius" mod

Thanks, @cruiserpatch !

Also replaced fuel pump, strainer and submerged fuel pump wiring harness along with some new kick plate fasteners while in there.

My Cruiser mentor, Steve Powers, wired my ARB front bumper indicator and driving lights. And we changed out the fuel filter with new OEM.

 

[cruiserpatch]

New rear wiper arm and blade - JDM "Prius" mod

Thanks, @cruiserpatch !

View attachment 3602135

Wow that looks gorgeous on your truck.

 

[Rpreme]

New rear wiper arm and blade - JDM "Prius" mod

Thanks, @cruiserpatch !

View attachment 3602135

View attachment 3602136

Also replaced fuel pump, strainer and submerged fuel pump wiring harness along with some new kick plate fasteners while in there.

My Cruiser mentor, Steve Powers, wired my ARB front bumper indicator and driving lights. And we changed out the fuel filter with new OEM.

Man this looks spliffy! I may have to get this on the list of things to do....

 

[Trapper50cal]

Finally! Thanks for the help Steve, Corbet and Clayton!! Tuesday Morning Coffee at Durango Joe's is on me next week!

 

[Exiled]

Nice find! You'll never go back to a regular tent after this.....!

 

[Trapper50cal]

Nice find! You'll never go back to a regular tent after this.....!

I like the sentiment and the comment...

The RTT is for the wife and kid, I'm too fat to get up and down that ladder
and I can't sleep anywhere near my wife...she SNORES loud and can fall back to
sleep after being woken in less than 10 seconds.

I have a Gazelle T3X Overland Edition pop-up tent and a cot for myself.

 

[1999WhitePearl]

I like the sentiment and the comment...

The RTT is for the wife and kid, I'm too fat to get up and down that ladder
and I can't sleep anywhere near my wife...she SNORES loud and can fall back to
sleep after being woken in less than 10 seconds.

I have a Gazelle T3X Overland Edition pop-up tent and a cot for myself.

How was the packaging from shipping? Also, did you have to have a lift gate truck or did it deliver in a regular UPS truck? Looks great!!

 

[Trapper50cal]

How was the packaging from shipping? Also, did you have to have a lift gate truck or did it deliver in a regular UPS truck? Looks great!!

Packaging was good...there was a dent on the roof but not a biggie for me.

I get the feeling it kind of flummoxed the UPS guys because a manager made a special trip
in an otherwise empty regular/small UPS truck and needed me to help get it off the truck (178 lbs.)

It was protected by:
Plastic corner armor
foam sheet inside
thin particle board inside
wrapped in plastic

It sat on the side of my house in the box over the winter and while there was a little mold
on the thin particle board, none made it's way to the exterior or interior of the tent.

All in all, very impressed with the quality of the fabrics, stitching, sleeping pad, shell seal and hardware/accessories.

It's literally the exact same footprint/size as the Gamiviti roof rack

 

[Trapper50cal]

How was the packaging from shipping? Also, did you have to have a lift gate truck or did it deliver in a regular UPS truck? Looks great!!

Guess I should mention...heavy treated cardboard exterior box

 

[Trapper50cal]

Quick question for anyone reading...

After mounting the RTT, the rear went down a touch and it seemed like the front came UP a bit
At least my measurements of the front hub to fender number climbed to a little over 22" to maybe 22.25"

So I had lost most of the "forward rake" that 100's like for handling and driving out.

I got underneath and brought the front TB bars down to just under 22"

So the question:

Do I need to get it re-aligned?

The alignment was performed w/o the RTT and the front number right at or just barely above 22"

 

[kevgentile]

Quick question for anyone reading...

After mounting the RTT, the rear went down a touch and it seemed like the front came UP a bit
At least my measurements of the front hub to fender number climbed to a little over 22" to maybe 22.25"

So I had lost most of the "forward rake" that 100's like for handling and driving out.

I got underneath and brought the front TB bars down to just under 22"

So the question:

Do I need to get it re-aligned?

The alignment was performed w/o the RTT and the front number right at or just barely above 22"

In theory, no. Since you returned the front ride height back to its original setting then the geometry should follow.
Could the geometry change too, yes, but by very little if any. Learning how to do a simple string alignment will allow you to
make all the changes you want without having to pay constant alignments or worry about wearing out a set of tires.

You can always use your cell phone to get a camber reading and compare to your recent alignment printout. If your camber is on or near on the money then the toe will be ok too.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Tiny little project that was nagging me...
The rear bumper/cover was drooping on the driver side because the bracket that the lower portion of the bumper attaches to was not bolted together and the side of the bracket to the frame rail wasn't tightened down...so I got under there and shored everything back up.

Before:

After:

Tiny little thing but glad it's no longer gonna bug me

 

[Trapper50cal]

To Do List:

Winch install
Dorkel install
Replace antenna
New airbags

I'd like to get this all done in preparation for heading up to Silverton at the end of July to say hey to all the COTR folks coming in!
Actually planning on staying in Ouray, hitting the Hot Springs and maybe dinking around on Yankee Boy Basin, etc.

 

[Trapper50cal]

So I have two things confusing/concerning me a bit, I didn't know where to post so I'll try
here in my thread and see what I get.

Sitch 1:

Brakes - First off, my brakes work fine but they work way stronger if I pump once, then depress fully.
They work fine if I don't pump once but if I do, it's noticeably more forceful. Along with this, the reservoir
for the brake fluid sometime reads right at the maximum and sometimes well above. I've turkey-basted
a couple pumps out while high and it doesn't seem to have changed this dynamic. They also always
begin squeaking if used on a long downhill stretch or stop and go traffic.

Sitch 2:

Coolant. - Sort of the same deal...no obvious leaks other than small seep at the main top rad to block
and the coolant overflow tank (which doesn't have a crack or hole) is sometimes empty and sometimes
has an "in range" amount for cold.

Does any of this sound familiar to you guys?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Brakes:
Please remind us thr service history like last fluid flush, master cylinder rebuild, pads and rotors

 

[Trapper50cal]

Brakes:
Please remind us the service history like last fluid flush, master cylinder rebuild, pads and rotors

Pads and rotors on all four corners done right before I bought it.
Stainless brake lines installed inside 3 or 4 years.
No data on last flush or MC rebuild.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I would definitely start with brake fluid flush - that is just an inexpensive way to make sure your brakes are not handicapped by old brake oil.

I had a similar issue with my '98 - even after installing a brand new OEM brake booster assembly and rebuilding the master cylinder. I ended up adjusting the clavicle pin to finally get rid of the double tap brake issue. For further reading see:

Brake Pedal Feel

So there seems to be a big difference in brake pedal feel between my newly acquired 98 LX 470 and my 2002 LC. The 98 seems to take a lot more pedal pressure to engage the brakes. No difference after new brake fluid service, not that I was expecting that but thought I’d add this detail just in...

forum.ih8mud.com

Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY

Without me going back and reading your post. Why do you think fluid is leaking if you've not found a wet spot. Two things to keep in mind: Look for leaks with key on and someone pressing brakes pedal down hard, or just after hard braking drive. Too check level in reservoir; turn IG (key) off...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Trapper50cal]

I would definitely start with brake fluid flush - that is just an inexpensive way to make sure your brakes are not handicapped by old brake oil.

I had a similar issue with my '98 - even after installing a brand new OEM brake booster assembly and rebuilding the master cylinder. I ended up adjusting the clavicle pin to finally get rid of the double tap brake issue. For further reading see:

Brake Pedal Feel

So there seems to be a big difference in brake pedal feel between my newly acquired 98 LX 470 and my 2002 LC. The 98 seems to take a lot more pedal pressure to engage the brakes. No difference after new brake fluid service, not that I was expecting that but thought I’d add this detail just in...

forum.ih8mud.com

Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY

Without me going back and reading your post. Why do you think fluid is leaking if you've not found a wet spot. Two things to keep in mind: Look for leaks with key on and someone pressing brakes pedal down hard, or just after hard braking drive. Too check level in reservoir; turn IG (key) off...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks, CJ!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Thanks, CJ!

De Nada

 

[Trapper50cal]

Big day tomorrow...

Replacing:
Thermostat
Tensioner Pulley
Idler Pulley
Serpentine Belt
Heater T's (to metal w/ constant torque clamps)
New Coolant (Toyota Long Life Red)
Oil Change (Mobil 1 Synth/OEM Filter)

Hopefully in preparation for a little Fall camping up Mineral Creek just outside of Silverton next weekend.