Builds Trapper50's Build Thread - 99 UZJ100 "Penny" (5 Viewers)

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Okay guys,

I know that the front bumper needs to come off for a few reasons...need to align the driver corner a little better, need it off to install the cop pushers, easier to install indicator and driving light assemblies. I don't need to remove the bumper brackets, just the bumper itself.

I only want to have it off one more time so I'm taking a flyer on an inexpensive winch as well. I can't afford a Smittybilt or better and Amazon has some pretty inexpensive Chinese winches that are just too inexpensive to not try one out.

My requirements were:

Clockable clutch lever since ARB mounting requires feet forward install instead of feet down
Non-intergrated Control Box so I can mount it in engine compartment
Includes a kill switch so it's not always directly connected to battery potentially creating parasitic draw

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Amazon product ASIN B09S9Z6FYQ
I read through the reviews and the complaints either seemed solvable, unrealistic or "user error" based.
Now that might just be me rationalizing with rose-colored glasses on but we'll see.

Complaints about corrosion to the cabled control module socket on the control box seem to be solved via location under hood and some dielectric grease.
Complaints about the connection wires being copper coated aluminum (CCA) seem to be moot as it seems all new winches come with CCA not pure copper
Complaints about low quality hook and synthetic winch rope that it comes with have been solved by augmenting with different hook and a winch rope that is
made with the Dyneema fiber which upon somewhat limited research seems to be the same fiber that the expensive ropes are made with that have abrasion
resistance, is tougher and handles the elements better.
Complaints about burning out the winch seem like user error, it clearly states to run the winch under load for no longer than 45 seconds at a time and to give it
15 seconds of rest for every 45 second interval.


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Amazon product ASIN B0BZC8YX5T

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I would have bought a 1/2 inch synthetic winch rope but I wasn't sure about the capacity of the spool
so I got a little longer 3/8 inch rope.

We'll see if I chose wisely or not. But at least everyone will know one way or the other...I'm into the winch
and augmented parts for about $400 total so if it works two or three times, it has paid for itself.
Hopefully it can be trusted to be useful when the time comes that it's needed.
 
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FSAuto had an illustration of his 100 done by @gordon_pancho on Instagram

I couldn't help myself and sniped it to turn into a version of my 100


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I figured if it wasn't for resale or for someone else, it wasn't to egregious :)

But hit @gordon_pancho up on Instagram if anyone wants to have him do theirs as well!
 
Wow...color me embarrassingly surprised...

We've had a cold snap here for the last week or so and that combined with my son being home sick,
I didn't drive anywhere for like 5 days straight. I went to start the truck and the battery was dead.
I threw a charger on it, got it going and drove into town to charge it back up. It worked okay but I
could tell that it wasn't 100%.

Well, today I went and picked up a Deka Ultimate (Model: 724FMF) and brought it home to throw
it on a charger to top it off in the event it had been sitting for a while...it was fine...completely charged.

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The first thing I noticed upon install was that the truck was turning over like a rabid mongoose.
Just WAY better.

Then I noticed that it was running better and idling better. I think all the systems liked the
more appropriate output.

The battery wasn't very expensive...like $170 +core.

So happy I pulled the trigger.
 
Penny has been under the knife of Pro Cruiser surgeon, Steve Prosise of Prosise TEQ Works over the Xmas Holidays...

I was having him install:

SPC UCA's
OME Torsion Bars (Penny ended up having Sway-A-Way units already installed so the OME units will be up for sale soon...NIB)
Slee Diff Drop
Front Diff Cover bushing (OEM) - Sorry that was a PITA, Steve.
Lower Ball Joints (Japanese 555) - These were also already done with 555's not too long ago so keeping back-ups for next time

And had him:

Grease U-Joints and Slip Yokes
Double check tightness of bolts on Metal Tech Rear Upper Control Arms.

Unfortunately, he found that the Steering Rack was puking from most orifices
so I am having him do that as well (OEM). I was relieved that he could do it now while
my son was on Xmas break and I didn't need it to pick him up from school.
He did the CV inner seals while in there.

Couple sneak peek text shots:

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More pics once I get Penny back in the driveway...

I need to adjust the Parking Brake and replace the Door Belt Window Trim.
 
I got Penny back from Steve Prosise's new shop down here in Durango.
Awesome Guy, utilize his experience if you're down this way.

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Nice to have the UCA's, Diff Drop and Steering Rack on and the height adjusted.

Just got it back from an alignment at JP Tire and I have to say, I think Steve had eyeballed it pretty damn good :)
(He had set the SPC's at zeros by default, so we knew that would get dialed in further)

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And a big thank you to SPC for those camber and caster numbers!
 
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So I finally tackled the window belt trim on Penny...It was more of a journey than I expected...

First, a series of "Before" pics that show my "Sharpie Solve" cost - $1.98

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Afters in next post...
 
and "Afters" - Cost - $43 (Clearly not OEM Toyota...Aftermarket Chinese ebay)

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I had tried to purchase these from ebay twice before (sellers: auto_decor and weisen5) and both delivered (drop shipped from China) the same wrong items that were labelled "05PRADO-(shining)" and was getting a little frustrated, but they refunded my money and didn't require me to return the item.

I tried a third time but contacted the seller and told them of my concerns. They assured me that the part numbers matched the OEM listing for the 98-07 100 Series, so I pulled the trigger again and this time they were correct.

I'm including the link to their offering even though they are currently out of stock since they may become available again and I want people to have the name of the seller that got it right


I've got Steve Prosise lined up to do some more work to Penny that I can't do. I'm having my shoulder replaced on Feb. 27th so I figured that would be a good time for Penny to go under the knife as well. Steve's is going to install my winch for me. :)
 
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Winch got bumped to "on deck" as the sporadic crank-no-start showed up again.
So I had Steve Prosise install the new Block Assembly (main fuse and relay box) to hopefully fix that for good.
And he installed the extra bits on the ARB - Aux light's and indicators and bumperettes.

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Added military terminals and slee terminal brackets as well. Now it's ready for winch wiring.
 
Winch got bumped to "on deck" as the sporadic crank-no-start showed up again.
So I had Steve Prosise install the new Block Assembly (main fuse and relay box) to hopefully fix that for good.
And he installed the extra bits on the ARB - Aux light's and indicators and bumperettes.

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Added military terminals and slee terminal brackets as well. Now it's ready for winch wiring.
Bumper looking sooo good there. Mine should be here this week and can install this weekend.
 
Strong work! That cruiser is properly pampered!
 
Awesome to see another Desert Bronze 100 owner! Let alone with cloth seats! That's a rarity right here! I'll be following your thread. Awesome work so far!

PS my hood is fading just like yours or even worse, looking at ways to blend it or just wrap it black.

I guess oxidation is the killer to this color, but still love it!
 
and "Afters" - Cost - $43 (Clearly not OEM Toyota...Aftermarket Chinese ebay)

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I had tried to purchase these from ebay twice before (sellers: auto_decor and weisen5) and both delivered (drop shipped from China) the same wrong items that were labelled "05PRADO-(shining)" and was getting a little frustrated, but they refunded my money and didn't require me to return the item.

I tried a third time but contacted the seller and told them of my concerns. They assured me that the part numbers matched the OEM listing for the 98-07 100 Series, so I pulled the trigger again and this time they were correct.

I'm including the link to their offering even though they are currently out of stock since they may become available again and I want people to have the name of the seller that got it right


I've got Steve Prosise lined up to do some more work to Penny that I can't do. I'm having my shoulder replaced on Feb. 27th so I figured that would be a good time for Penny to go under the knife as well. Steve's is going to install my winch for me. :)

Man I will need to look into this. OEM replacements are wild.
 
Yeah, Penny is a rare bird. I love the color as well. There's a beat up one in the classifieds (1999) for sale in Montana...it has a clean, intact hood, tailgate/hatch and OEM rear locker that I want badly but I can't pull the trigger on the whole truck or even figure out a way to get it down to Durango. But if anyone reading this buys that truck, they've got an instant buyer for some of the parts...
 
"Crank No Start" Update:

Well, my aspirations of having forever solved the "Crank No Start" issue by replacing the Block Assembly (Under-hood Fuse and Relay Box) were short-lived. It gave me about a day's worth of confidence.

Going to the gas station yesterday, Penny stumbled and stalled when coming to a stop to wait to merge onto the highway...fired-back up and I attributed it to being freshly started and quickly brought into service w/o warming up. I drove it maybe a half mile to the gas station, parked went and made my purchases, came back out and "Crank, No Start" - I popped the hood and checked fuse #1 and #9 along with relay R8 (EFI)...jiggled them around a bit, double-checked the connections on wires that would have been disconnected during the swap, gave everything an optical once-over and went back to the gas cap to check for excessive pressure or anything like that. Little hiss but nothing crazy.

Tried starting it with skinny pedal already to the floor, with the skinny pedal depressed all the way after turning over, while in neutral instead of park, etc.

In the past it would take no less than a day to fire back up previous to the Block Assembly swap.

Yesterday, it fired back up after about 10 minutes of trying. So that's materially different...why?

So from here, I'm looking at fuel pump, and fuel delivery i.e. fuel filter, throttle position sensor, etc.

She runs so good when she's running, I just need to get her to run consistently w/o question so I can trust her enough to take her out in the woods.
 
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I had a similar problem after resolving a no start. I bought my '99 with the CNS issue.

I rebuilt the fuse block assembly, virginized the ecm, coded the keys, and thought I would be home free. Every once in a crank it would stumble but not fire. After scanning, watching live data and metering the ecm I decided to meter the fuel pump ecu, just for the heck of it. The live data showed the fuel pump on but my resistence check at the ecu was sky high, aka locked up. Pulled the cover plate and a couple good taps, crank and fire.

Guess my point is, get some live data and a meter out when it acts up. Familiarize yourself with the parameters while running well so you can recognize the indescrepencies when it's not.
 
I had a similar problem after resolving a no start. I bought my '99 with the CNS issue.

I rebuilt the fuse block assembly, virginized the ecm, coded the keys, and thought I would be home free. Every once in a crank it would stumble but not fire. After scanning, watching live data and metering the ecm I decided to meter the fuel pump ecu, just for the heck of it. The live data showed the fuel pump on but my resistence check at the ecu was sky high, aka locked up. Pulled the cover plate and a couple good taps, crank and fire.

Guess my point is, get some live data and a meter out when it acts up. Familiarize yourself with the parameters while running well so you can recognize the indescrepencies when it's not.
Interesting...thanks for the suggestion.
I drove it around the neighborhood tonight with a couple wide open stretches of highway included to see
if I could recreate the failure but it ran perfectly.
 

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