The FJ55 Weatherstrip Guide

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Be patient.

We "piggy" owners are a patient lot. Parts always take a while to get sorted out. Nothing but the best for our piggys!
 
I'm in for whatever works best. Let me know so I can Paypal whoever is going to do the group buy.
Howdy! Ditto for me. I'd be glad to take 50'. The Arizona (dry) heat has turned most of my w/s into dust. Since "It Never Rains In Arizona", I just want it so my doors stop whistling when I am on the highway. It's so bad that I can barely hear my tires roaring!! John
 
when using the jc whitney body to door seal enough is left over to use to seal the lower tailgate vertical component, fits nicely and does better than sealing the door!


Lou
lower tailgate minus weather stripping.webp
pig lower tailgate weather stripping going in place.webp
JC whitney wearther stripping in place.webp
 
and this is the problem area where the JC Whitney body to door seal inverts allowing water the channel inwards!

Lou
JCWhitney weather stripping foldiing over.webp
 
Right on--I'm down with Patience! :D

When all is said and done I would also like to get in on the group buy.
 
replaced all the window felts on "Rusty" this evening............the originals have have a long opening that makes it a lot easier to install, the ones from JC Whitney ogf course have none .....so the drilling has to be very precise to get the fasteners to line up; was able to reuse all the old ones just got to be careful and use a smalll curved needle nose pliers to catch them before they slide down into the door............ask me how I know:mad:also the felts have a chromed side that is hard to see and easy to install upside down:o.the felts make a great difference in the wind noise and rattling.................:cheers:to Heath the father of this sticky!;

Lou
 
Drivers door weather stripping install Drivers zx813688

update on door weather stripping from JC Whitney install # Drivers zx813688............lots of trial and error and screw ups; think I have finally figured the install........ to where the door will close w/o problems
now I can install a drivers door weather stripping in a bit over 1/2 hour......several little tricks
#1 can of PB Blaster dry lube
#2 HSS drill bit 4mms or 3/16ths
#3 plastic "pry" can get one from the body shop; it is used to install weather stripping/glass hard plastic shaped like a "file" but very smooth
#4 good set of heavy duty pliers "klein electricians"
#5 tube of 3M weather strip adhesive
take out all old weather stripping, clean the channels very well, scrape the old cemented/glued areas off, wire brush it, clean dust off with denatured alcohol, rattle can with similar color..grab a:beer: kick back and let dry
hit the upper channels with pb blaster dry lube..........begin at the upper rear corner begin slowly working the rubber seal into the channel while HOLDING the rubber seal in your right hand under tension!!...work the rubber into the upper channel till it ends then go to the back part of the door and do the same....just get the rubber started then put tension/slight stretch on the strip with your right hand always working the rubber in place a little bit on both sides..........this goes very quickly once you figure it out and get the knack for it.............the front part of the door is a bit more difficult but not much..........very little space and I was about ready to take off the door ....that is when :idea:stumbled on placing it on stretch...........then comes the bottom where there is no channel.........take the rubber weather strip and notice that there are quite a few little fasteners that we had to take out to get it into the channels............DON'T remove the bottom ones!!......keep the rubber on stretch/slight tension line it up while you are on your back and use your
4 mm bit to drill a hole in the bottom of the door sheet metal to accomodate the fastener; pop the fastener in and keep at it till you have about 8-12 inches of excess loop of weather stripping left.........wondering if you have screwed up???.....just use a very sharp pair of LARGE scissors, cut a good butt join and go back with a small spatula.........I used a kids lollipop stick and apply weather strip cement to the areas between the fasteners...........the door closes easily as when the weather strip is installed it is under tension and the diameter is about 40% less then when it is w/o tension.....did hit the door seal and body to door seal with pb dry lube........and it closed snugly but not scarily as it did the first couple of times till I figured out the tension part and not to pull out ......yes, the fasteners do come out easily with a good pair of pliers.....but are a bitch to put back in:mad: the Drivers door weather strip has been in place since sunday and seems to be holding up well

hope this helps; it seems to be working for me

Lou
IMG_1792 JC Whitney Door weather stripping + fasteners.webp
 
Rhino, did you use the SOR weather stripping?; I had the opportunity to be in a pig a few weeks ago that had it in place and it seemed like a bettter design than the JC Whitney stuff that I have; the round seal will collapse to accomodate the contours wheras the JC Whitney will tend to "roll over" in certain areas and channel water inwards..will see how things go with the weatjher stripping on the door in place; am hopefull but am not holding my breath.......just don't want to go out and buy SOR's stuff if I can get this already bought stuff to work..........the JC Whitney weatherstripping has a lot of little quick fasteners that I made the mistake of removing entirely........fussed with the bottom of the weather stripping trying to get in place and stay there till my 5 year old asked ..........what are these funny things for?...........they look important:idea:
I put the lower ones back in and they will keep things in place till the weather stripping cement hardens, you can also put a few in other places like the
"Back Curve" of the door to keep the WS from rolling.....takes a 5 year old to figure things out sometimes<LOL> anyhow, it seems to be working well last 4 days:cheers:

Lou
 
More weather stripping install problems JC Whitney part #s zx813688 & zx813689 + SOLUTIONS...........door to body is a headache on the lower parts; the portion that does not sit in a groove and has to be "glued" in place;
problem #1 how do you keep something upside down in place??...........gravity is a bitch!
picture of problem#1
#2 tools needed
#3 source of 4mm fasteners.........take from JC Whitney excess weather stripping.............popping them out!
IMG_1795weather stripping falling off!.webp
IMG_1796tools needed.webp
IMG_1801popping out xtra fasteners.webp
 
#4 making a puncture with the needle nose
#5 new fasteners in place <red ones>
#6 weather strip + fasteners in place

hope this helps!

Lou
IMG_1803 puncturing the weather strip.webp
IMG_1804new fasteners in place.webp
IMG_1805weather strip+ new fasteners in place.webp
 
Found a low tech solution to the lack of grommets between safety knob shaft and door body to help eliminate the small but annoying rattling behind my ear....used some silicone grease on the shaft.......sourced from "Lowe's"; hope this can be of help!

Lou
IMG_1813 old door grommets.webp
IMG_1812 new door knob grommet.webp
IMG_1814 new door grommet source.webp
 
oops.............the white grommets are the old ones, hard as rocks and only had them on the passengers doors....front doors were both missing them!
pic #1 old grommets
#2 new grommets
#3 new grommets + size and source

Lou
 
Just got the window channel in from JC Whitney..........it is very different from the original and wonder about inserting it as it is quite a bit wider:frown:.........any suggestions?, will post pix later........this is not a perfect match as originally posted, and there is no molded 90 degree angle for the corners?? .........original post by HeathRJ was part # JC Whitney ZX184879T post#1; on post # 19 Heath discribed the channel rubber as "Yes - I think the window channel is an "exact" match - as is the the weatherstrip that goes on the door. It even has a pre-moulded 90 degree corner. In JC Whitney catalog it is listed as a 1970's Toyota minitruck w/s and is a perfect match to the original." QUESTION.......did I get the wrong channel rubber or is this the new replacement; BTW the numbers are the same:confused:

Lou
 
the JCWhitney number on the package is 184879 without the ZX prefix and T suffix ?!

Lou
 
Marshall, the numbers are the same except for the prefixes........finally got the new window channel rubber in on the D.Door.....the Crutchfield removal tool worked great.....thanks Todd for the info on it; tried the rag trick and just not deft enough to get it to work..........had to take the window regulator down and get the old rubber out..........then the hard part, on the back vericle component of the metal channel I found that there is a lip from when the door was made.......makes it very very difficult to feed the new rubber from above; ended up cutting the squared off end to convert it to a triangle that would feed and used an 18 inch screwdriver and dry lube to get it in; there is NO 90 degree angle at the upper rear corner but I crammed it in anyway and it worked to my surprise:cool:had thought I would have to make a "Miter cut"kroil oild the regulator and dry lubed the new channel and drove it a few miles..........DAMN; not rattles anymore; it works awsome...and did find out that the window regulator was VERY still till I got some dry lube on it and made sure that it was WELL seated in its groove......hope this can help y'all:cheers:

Lou
IMG_1839window channel R=original L=JCWhitney.webp
IMG_1840window channel L=JCWhitneyrubber+felt R=Original, rubber only.webp
IMG_1842trim and window handle removal tools crutchfield.webp
 
:doh: this teaches me to proof read.............corrections........the back VERTICLE component of the channel has a lip that makes it very difficult to feed the channel rubber from above................the window regulator was very STIFF till I dry lubed the felt inner channel and seated the outer channel rubber VERY well........it works very well, very happy with it......kudos to Heath who started this sticky and to all the others that have added to it:D

Lou
IMG_1844super dry lube.webp
 
Found a low tech solution to the lack of grommets between safety knob shaft and door body to help eliminate the small but annoying rattling behind my ear....used some silicone grease on the shaft.......sourced from "Lowe's"; hope this can be of help!

Lou

FYI..........I found new ones on SOR.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom