This is original 1970 whether strip. It is a flat return flap. Also the corner at the top of the strike side of the jamb is more of a square corner allowing the door weather strip to kiss the jamb weather strip.
The weather strip with bulb attached (supplied by SOR, Amazon and others) to the vinyl edging is 1/2“ in diameter. I have found that when the door has to crush 12 LF of said bulb, there is a lot more resistance then one realizes. Hence slamming the doors will but inevitable stress on the window frames that we know to be a weak link.
If one uses this bulb version it might work better to cut one side of the bulb so that it works more like the original flat return type allow much less force needed to close the door. Similar to original.
On amazon there is also the same bulb type withe a 3/8” diameter bulb.
(no not patronizing Amazon)
This cut will allow the crushing of the bulb 50% easier an less stressful on the door/window frames
This is a 1977 showing how the upper corner of the strike side of the jamb Is more of a rounded corner that doesn’t match up with the sharp window/door weather strip. Don’t know what my 77 original had but in in the thread (just get it drivable) there was a pic of a 77 withe the original WS on it.
Since the door fit tolerances on my 77 doors are pretty snug I just don’t think the 1/2” bulb is going to crush easily hence I would slice the bulb open. Also the fit at the upper corner strike side doesn’t match the door.
The weather strip that is on the doors (none on the jambs) of my 77 fits snugly to the jambs of all my doors except for a small section of the drivers door. To solve the wind noice and draft I did the following
Still not discounting the use of the bulb type but if it ant broke don’t fix it.