31's are the gateway drug. Stock......bwahaahaahhaaa
Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter EscapeWagon62
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31's are the gateway drug. Stock......bwahaahaahhaaa
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #322
Well said.
I was a purist trying to make the best stock rig I could.
Then came hands free Bluetooth
Then the LED headlights
Then the H55
Next I’ll justify a 2 inch lift snd 33s etc etc etc
Is there a 12 step program for 60 series owners? My wife is asking.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #323
Well the Land Cruiser Gods have smiled upon me today.
I found gear oil dripping onto the floor just below my newly rebuilt transfer case.
My mind went NO NO NO
My fear is that we botched something, or had outrun the set time on the sealant when we had to backtrack during the build when we found an “extra bolt” (which was one of the bolts that attaches it to the transmission which required undoing and redoing everything)
Fortunately.....I located the seepage. It was where the speedometer cable enters the transfer case. I put in a fresh 0-ring (which we didn’t do during the build) and life is grand again.
Can’t tell you how relieved I was to finally have a simple fix
Maybe 2021 is going to be awesome
I found gear oil dripping onto the floor just below my newly rebuilt transfer case.
My mind went NO NO NO
My fear is that we botched something, or had outrun the set time on the sealant when we had to backtrack during the build when we found an “extra bolt” (which was one of the bolts that attaches it to the transmission which required undoing and redoing everything)
Fortunately.....I located the seepage. It was where the speedometer cable enters the transfer case. I put in a fresh 0-ring (which we didn’t do during the build) and life is grand again.
Can’t tell you how relieved I was to finally have a simple fix
Maybe 2021 is going to be awesome
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #324
And thanks to TacomaWorld, I have the speedometer conversion table for the new tires.
Before on stock tires ~2,900 RPM at 70mph
After new tires ~2,650 RPM *Edit* *Actually closer to 2,900* at 75 MPH (adjusted via table below). MORE BUENO!
And the actual vs indicated speed table from TacomaWorld
Before on stock tires ~2,900 RPM at 70mph
After new tires ~
And the actual vs indicated speed table from TacomaWorld
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How do you “adjust” the speedo? I’ve been 10mph off for years. Lol.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #326
Well the Land Cruiser Gods have smiled upon me today.
I found gear oil dripping onto the floor just below my newly rebuilt transfer case.
My mind went NO NO NO
My fear is that we botched something, or had outrun the set time on the sealant when we had to backtrack during the build when we found an “extra bolt” (which was one of the bolts that attaches it to the transmission which required undoing and redoing everything)
Fortunately.....I located the seepage. It was where the speedometer cable enters the transfer case. I put in a fresh 0-ring (which we didn’t do during the build) and life is grand again.
Can’t tell you how relieved I was to finally have a simple fix
Maybe 2021 is going to be awesome
View attachment 2541279
View attachment 2541280
View attachment 2541281
And for any eagle eyed folks out there.....you may ask how the hell oil would be dripping out of the speedometer housing when, if the transfer case is t not over filled, shouldn’t have sitting oil in there.Well the Land Cruiser Gods have smiled upon me today.
I found gear oil dripping onto the floor just below my newly rebuilt transfer case.
My mind went NO NO NO
My fear is that we botched something, or had outrun the set time on the sealant when we had to backtrack during the build when we found an “extra bolt” (which was one of the bolts that attaches it to the transmission which required undoing and redoing everything)
Fortunately.....I located the seepage. It was where the speedometer cable enters the transfer case. I put in a fresh 0-ring (which we didn’t do during the build) and life is grand again.
Can’t tell you how relieved I was to finally have a simple fix
Maybe 2021 is going to be awesome
View attachment 2541279
View attachment 2541280
View attachment 2541281
In my case we were still working on the wiring along the passenger side frame rail. I had jacked up the front passenger side of the rig to give my son more room to work. That allowed the gear oil to flow backwards snd toward the drivers side which subsequently caused il to fill up that area. The tube is at a down angle which allowed the oil to pool and slowly drip out due to old O-ring
tmxmotorsports
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You can replace the metal speedometer gear in the tcase and the plastic speedometer gear to change the speed. They have to be changed as a set not one or the other they are a matching set.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #328
No actual adjustment....I probably should have said indicated speed vs actual speed based on the conversion table.
My bad
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #329
Still chasing why my 4wd light wont come on and oddly my seatbelt/key in ignition buzzer/binger is inoperative. Too cold to chase down wires so I moved over to two other projects on my list:
1. Rattle in drivers door turned out to be the plastic wiring connector to the mirror. Pushed it back into the mirror housing and all is good.
2. After spending significant time cleaning out the air intake chamber, I wanted to reduce the amount of oily carbon buildup by using an oil catch can. It may not help but it certainly wont hurt.
1. Rattle in drivers door turned out to be the plastic wiring connector to the mirror. Pushed it back into the mirror housing and all is good.
2. After spending significant time cleaning out the air intake chamber, I wanted to reduce the amount of oily carbon buildup by using an oil catch can. It may not help but it certainly wont hurt.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #330
posted a different thread on this but in case someone watching this one has an answer.
Ive put about 200 miles on the rig since putting in the oil catch jar.
Is this level of accumulation normal?
@3_puppies noted that it isn’t all oil.
No sign of coolant
Thoughts.....please
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EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #331
After a couple weeks of driving this with the H55 and 31x10.5x15 tires....I just absolutely love the setup.
The wheels actually smooth the ride out which I was’t expecting.
I was still experiencing a high idle where the truck didn’t want to come down to 750RPM consistently. Yesterday it kept hanging st 1,200 at stop signed.
I had previously relaxed the accelerator cable but that wasn‘t the problem.
My hypothesis right after the swap was that the lack of a kickdown cable created a situation where there wasn‘t enough tension on the cable carrier to consistently push the dashpot down.
I adjusted the dashpot screw a couple of turns and it worked perfectly on three test drives.
The wheels actually smooth the ride out which I was’t expecting.
I was still experiencing a high idle where the truck didn’t want to come down to 750RPM consistently. Yesterday it kept hanging st 1,200 at stop signed.
I had previously relaxed the accelerator cable but that wasn‘t the problem.
My hypothesis right after the swap was that the lack of a kickdown cable created a situation where there wasn‘t enough tension on the cable carrier to consistently push the dashpot down.
I adjusted the dashpot screw a couple of turns and it worked perfectly on three test drives.
FJ62DadWagon
Joe Hoffeld (IG: CruiserChronicles)
Great FJ62 you have there, you’ve done a lot of incredible work in a short time.
I would begin considering the possibility of a slight head gasket leak or valve seals allowing just enough blow-by for combustion gases to condense water out in the oil, and decide how you want to approach from there whether you tackle it immediately or plan out down the road. I suspected a head gasket leak on mine a couple years ago (at 170k miles) although no signs of bubbles in the coolant but I had a very slow loss of coolant over time. I ended up pulling the head and took my time to place everything back new so I could ensure I had a reliable rig for many trips ahead. About 25k miles later, I’ve had no issues with it and made few trips from Texas to Colorado and Utah.
You’ve already covered a few big jobs on the injectors and throttle body, but overhauling the top end is a good opportunity to completely replace all the gaskets, hoses, clamps, timing cover gaskets and front seal.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #333
Thanks for the compliments on the rig and great advice on top end.
Always looking for a project to learn from and will always feel better having inspected myself.
A couple of items that I think had an impact and will investigate before pulling the top end:
1. I dont put enough miles (and typically short trips) so the age of the oil in my case is ready for a swap over. It may be as simple my old low mileage dino oil has attracted water and fuel (hygroscopic?) over the course of this winter. I drained a couple of quarts and refilled in the mean time. Old oil had a slight fuel scent (As did the muck I pulled out of the catch can on round one)
2. I went and checked the valves and found #5 exhaust was way too tight. This potentially could have caused more fuel vapor ec to be pushed i to the case.
3. After the slight tweaks above I went and took it for a 40 mile trip. Had a few CCs of what looks like normal oil. Of course this could always separate i to the cafe macchiato I had on round one
)I’ll post up some updates after the actual oil change.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #334
Took some time to fix some aesthetic stuff.
I had painted the grab handles sometime back and used a color more closely matching the center console. Never liked it and since I was putting in the new 70 series sun visors (which are a close match to original with a slight beige undertone) I resprayed the grab handles.
Really hepoy with the new sun visors. You have to use your original mounting hardware for them to fit properly but its a 15 minute job.
Original vs 70 series side by side with OEM
One 70 series and one OEM installed
Grab handles, I may go a bit lighter and respray the face plate of the rear view mirror which I sprayed too dark a while back. This version I’m using SEM vinyl Warm Gray
I had painted the grab handles sometime back and used a color more closely matching the center console. Never liked it and since I was putting in the new 70 series sun visors (which are a close match to original with a slight beige undertone) I resprayed the grab handles.
Really hepoy with the new sun visors. You have to use your original mounting hardware for them to fit properly but its a 15 minute job.
Original vs 70 series side by side with OEM
One 70 series and one OEM installed
Grab handles, I may go a bit lighter and respray the face plate of the rear view mirror which I sprayed too dark a while back. This version I’m using SEM vinyl Warm Gray
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #335
VICTORY IS MINE!
My 4WD light is working!
We had originally mis-wired, then re-wired thanks to some helpful MUD members. At that point it should have worked but didn’t.
Last night I remembered that we had pulled the switch on the transfer case to test if it was operating as designed.
Knowing it was wired correctly and knowing the switch works (which is a simple detent ball).......I wondered if it just wasn’t screwed in all the way.
BINGO
PS - i continually forget to check the easy fixes first
My 4WD light is working!
We had originally mis-wired, then re-wired thanks to some helpful MUD members. At that point it should have worked but didn’t.
Last night I remembered that we had pulled the switch on the transfer case to test if it was operating as designed.
Knowing it was wired correctly and knowing the switch works (which is a simple detent ball).......I wondered if it just wasn’t screwed in all the way.
BINGO
PS - i continually forget to check the easy fixes first
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #336
Now I’m down to two issues that may or not be related but I figured I ask the MUD tribe.
1. My key in ignition seatbelt buzzer, which worked prior to the swap, is inoperative.
2.My rear wiper is not not working. It’s possible that it was not put together properly after my body and paint work but BELIEVE that I tested it post bodywork. Interestingly enough, the rear wiper sprayer does work. SOLVED....LOOOSE CONNECTION.
I’m not versed in electrical whatsoever....my son did the swap work.
Any advice that I could POTENTIALLY understand would be greatly appreciated.
1. My key in ignition seatbelt buzzer, which worked prior to the swap, is inoperative.
2.
I’m not versed in electrical whatsoever....my son did the swap work.
Any advice that I could POTENTIALLY understand would be greatly appreciated.
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Ha I haven’t heard a key in buzzer in so long, I’ve forgotten cars actually used to have those. I disconnected mine probably over 20 years ago, maybe I’ll reconnect it just for kicks.
Wherethehell is it?
Wherethehell is it?
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #338
Passenger footwell behind the kick cover and very close to the firewall.
Its black and looks like a switch/box.
I’ll dig around and see if I toasted it during my wiring snafu or who knows what else.
It’s very minor but it’s fun to try to get things 100% functioning.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #339
Clarification of electrical
Slight update
As noted the rear wiper is all good.
Current issues are:
-no buzzer with key in ignition
- no light in heater control panel.
I’ll check to see if I blew a light on the second one but if anyone knows if there are related let me know. All other dash lights including the ones thst light up the cigarette lighter, defrost, power antenna area work.
OK
Slight update
As noted the rear wiper is all good.
Current issues are:
-no buzzer with key in ignition
- no light in heater control panel.
I’ll check to see if I blew a light on the second one but if anyone knows if there are related let me know. All other dash lights including the ones thst light up the cigarette lighter, defrost, power antenna area work.
EscapeWagon62
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- #340
I guess it’s my month/year/decade of mistakes! I’ll chalk it up to having a partner on my H55 swap when I usually work alone. (Dad of the year award for blaming my son!)
I had a transfer case leak in two places, one was a quick fix by replacing the O ring on the accelerator cable housing.
Found the other leak by the rear output oil seal.
Shoutout to @orangefj45 for his outstanding Land Cruiser Transfer Case Rebuild video. I realized that:
1. We put in the oil seal backwards
2. We didn’t coat the outside rim with FIPG
3. Learned from his video that the front axle large socket we should all own is the perfect seal setting device. The outside flange of the seal fits perfectly inside of the socket allowing you to set it.
Being a true mudder, I had an extra seal in my parts bid for just such an occasion.
I had a transfer case leak in two places, one was a quick fix by replacing the O ring on the accelerator cable housing.
Found the other leak by the rear output oil seal.
Shoutout to @orangefj45 for his outstanding Land Cruiser Transfer Case Rebuild video. I realized that:
1. We put in the oil seal backwards
2. We didn’t coat the outside rim with FIPG
3. Learned from his video that the front axle large socket we should all own is the perfect seal setting device. The outside flange of the seal fits perfectly inside of the socket allowing you to set it.
Being a true mudder, I had an extra seal in my parts bid for just such an occasion.
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