tmxmotorsports
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I've used @TRAIL TAILOR ones
Build The Escape Wagon Restoration
- Thread starter EscapeWagon62
- Start date
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EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #282
@tmxmotorsports is correct
Trail Tailor
Trail Tailor
tmxmotorsports
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I've also used SOR ones that a customer had I prefer @TRAIL TAILOR ones for sure.
Perfect thanks guys. I guess I should share a post purchase detail thread like yours. These are interesting beasts.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #285
You definitely should. Each new thread adds something to the knowledge base or at minimum gives someone else the confidence to tackle a repair themselves.
Jason @TRAIL TAILOR sells splash guards, always quality stuff.
Interesting, I would’ve (and planned to) installed the same way...by adding the flex line after the hard line was in. I haven’t yet looked at where the lines would come together low on the firewall, but makes me wonder how the FJ60s service the soft clutch line.
Is there something down there that can be removed, like the charcoal canister (?) that would make room to work on the clutch line junction?
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #288
What gets in the way are the fuel lines and brake lines. I haven’t permanently attached the bracket to the firewall where soft snd hard meet and maybe my placement pr routing is off. It wasn’t too difficult to attach from above. My issue was trying to access from below.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #289
Ok - many wins today and one loss.
We got the drive shafts mounted (had to remove one of the zerk fittings to release enough grease to compress the rear enough to fit)
Got the bottom and side plates welded up and the crossmember in place.
GOT THE RIG RUNNING!! Drove it around the shop and very excited. Guess we got the neutral safety switch wiring right.
Got reverse lights to work on our second attempt after some wiring tweaks.
FAILED getting 4WD to engage or light up
FAILED - released some smoke in the wiring and blew the wiper motor circuit.
I reached out to @CenTXFJ60 and he had seen this once before and walked us through the wiring one more time. We’ll go back tomorrow with fingers crossed.
I did find that you have to cut a catalytic convertor bracket in order to make room for the drivers side weld on plate.
Also - got to meet @yodafrick and handed over the A440F, shifter, an extra early FJ60 crossmember I bought in error along with some other goodies. Hope those parts keep more cruisers on the road.
We got the drive shafts mounted (had to remove one of the zerk fittings to release enough grease to compress the rear enough to fit)
Got the bottom and side plates welded up and the crossmember in place.
GOT THE RIG RUNNING!! Drove it around the shop and very excited. Guess we got the neutral safety switch wiring right.
Got reverse lights to work on our second attempt after some wiring tweaks.
FAILED getting 4WD to engage or light up
FAILED - released some smoke in the wiring and blew the wiper motor circuit.
I reached out to @CenTXFJ60 and he had seen this once before and walked us through the wiring one more time. We’ll go back tomorrow with fingers crossed.
I did find that you have to cut a catalytic convertor bracket in order to make room for the drivers side weld on plate.
Also - got to meet @yodafrick and handed over the A440F, shifter, an extra early FJ60 crossmember I bought in error along with some other goodies. Hope those parts keep more cruisers on the road.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #290
A few things I learned that weren’t clear in other H55 swap threads or I just missed them in the previous writeups. In no particular order:
1. Pre-install (fully) the pilot bearing onto the front shaft of the transmission. Remove and then place it on the engine block. That will make stabbing the transmission easier.
2. If you are welding brackets to the frame, you need to take out the bolts that hold the hard brake and fuel lines on to the passenger side of the frame. This will allow you to move them away far enough to weld.
3. There is bracket that supports the catalytic convertor on the driver side that needs to be removed so you wan weld a plate. Depending on the plate you use, you can cut this bracket in half vertically and keep it useful albeit with only one of the original three bolts holding it in place.
4. Have a bottle of assembly lube handy. It works when rebuilding the transfer case, pilot bearing etc.
5. A440F donor parts. Reuse the transfer case shifter and shifter pin/bolt off the automatic, they bolt right into the H55 though you have to shorten the linkage. While Im still working on my wiring....and assuming I fix it today....cut the harness and adapters off your A440f as they can be used to mate the H55f to your factory harness in the truck.
6. You can stab the transmission in without removing the top plate of the H55 IFYOU HAVE a transmission jack that has full axial tilting ability. We cleared with milimeters to spare.
7. If you can't mount your drive shafts because they are slightly too long, remove the zerk fitting snd compress to release (push out) enough grease to shorten them up.
8. Spend the $15 to get a gallon jug hand pump for filling up the transfer case and transmission. I bought 2 gallon bottles of gear oil and a pump and it went smoothly.
9. Get or borrow an impact wrench. While you can do without it, don’t frustrate yourself. Flywheel bolts etc were installed with medium to strong locktite which an impact wrench makes short work of.
10. Get a can of rubberized undercoating. Once you’ve welded and painted your crossmember plates, shoot them with this stuff. While you are under the truck, use this stuff to spruce up other areas that look aged. My truck was undercoated by the dealership when sold new so it helps me match the rest of the rig.
1. Pre-install (fully) the pilot bearing onto the front shaft of the transmission. Remove and then place it on the engine block. That will make stabbing the transmission easier.
2. If you are welding brackets to the frame, you need to take out the bolts that hold the hard brake and fuel lines on to the passenger side of the frame. This will allow you to move them away far enough to weld.
3. There is bracket that supports the catalytic convertor on the driver side that needs to be removed so you wan weld a plate. Depending on the plate you use, you can cut this bracket in half vertically and keep it useful albeit with only one of the original three bolts holding it in place.
4. Have a bottle of assembly lube handy. It works when rebuilding the transfer case, pilot bearing etc.
5. A440F donor parts. Reuse the transfer case shifter and shifter pin/bolt off the automatic, they bolt right into the H55 though you have to shorten the linkage. While Im still working on my wiring....and assuming I fix it today....cut the harness and adapters off your A440f as they can be used to mate the H55f to your factory harness in the truck.
6. You can stab the transmission in without removing the top plate of the H55 IFYOU HAVE a transmission jack that has full axial tilting ability. We cleared with milimeters to spare.
7. If you can't mount your drive shafts because they are slightly too long, remove the zerk fitting snd compress to release (push out) enough grease to shorten them up.
8. Spend the $15 to get a gallon jug hand pump for filling up the transfer case and transmission. I bought 2 gallon bottles of gear oil and a pump and it went smoothly.
9. Get or borrow an impact wrench. While you can do without it, don’t frustrate yourself. Flywheel bolts etc were installed with medium to strong locktite which an impact wrench makes short work of.
10. Get a can of rubberized undercoating. Once you’ve welded and painted your crossmember plates, shoot them with this stuff. While you are under the truck, use this stuff to spruce up other areas that look aged. My truck was undercoated by the dealership when sold new so it helps me match the rest of the rig.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #291
Well.....
No real progress yesterday.
We narrowed our fuse blowing issue to the reverse lights being sent to he wrong blue line. Without those connected the truck operates well.
We still couldn’t get 4WD to engage. I can move the transfer case between high snd low so the internal shift fork isn’t my issue (thank god since that would mean dropping the assembly and opening up the case again
)
Driving it home last night I noticed a high idle and stumbling when engaging the brakes at a stoplight. I have a feeling we screwed up the vacuum lines going into the vacuum activator on the transfer case when we dropped it out for the swap. If that, in fact is the caee, our 4wd issue lies there.
We did test both solenoids and they are good.
We did fry a wire during our botched firdt wiring attempt snd its possible that I injured the transmission switch, have a new one in route in case the vacuum fix doesnt woek.
On the bright side....love having a stick shift again! The gears are certainly low and on flat terrain 2nd gear is the preferred start up plan (as noted by many others). I run stock tires, if I ever go bigger the ratios will be perfect.
Lots of work, lots of happiness, lots of frustration. All worth it.
Hopefully and update in a day or so.
Photo of the transmission switch attached in case anyone had history or insights into testing these
No real progress yesterday.
We narrowed our fuse blowing issue to the reverse lights being sent to he wrong blue line. Without those connected the truck operates well.
We still couldn’t get 4WD to engage. I can move the transfer case between high snd low so the internal shift fork isn’t my issue (thank god since that would mean dropping the assembly and opening up the case again
)Driving it home last night I noticed a high idle and stumbling when engaging the brakes at a stoplight. I have a feeling we screwed up the vacuum lines going into the vacuum activator on the transfer case when we dropped it out for the swap. If that, in fact is the caee, our 4wd issue lies there.
We did test both solenoids and they are good.
We did fry a wire during our botched firdt wiring attempt snd its possible that I injured the transmission switch, have a new one in route in case the vacuum fix doesnt woek.
On the bright side....love having a stick shift again! The gears are certainly low and on flat terrain 2nd gear is the preferred start up plan (as noted by many others). I run stock tires, if I ever go bigger the ratios will be perfect.
Lots of work, lots of happiness, lots of frustration. All worth it.
Hopefully and update in a day or so.
Photo of the transmission switch attached in case anyone had history or insights into testing these
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #292
And I forgot to include a “glamor shot” of the shifter!
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #293
I HAVE 4WD!!!!
I found the issue. It wasn't the solenoids or the large vacuum lines attached to the transfer case. While I was underneath the vehicle to pull those lines I saw the dangling end of the vacuum hose leading from the solenoid toward the hard vacuum lines along the firewall.
Reattached that and got 4WD to engage.
HAPPY FACTOR = 10+
I realized, unless someone tells me differently, that you have to put the clutch in when activating the "shift on the fly" 4WD button. I didn't know that and made a nice buzzing noise. No harm, I was doing 3-5 MPH, just enough wheel rotation to allow the front shaft to engage.
Tried it a bunch more times in and out of 4WD with the clutch pressed and no further noise from the transfer case.
I still don't have dash indicator lights but I'll fix that this weekend.
What a relief....
I found the issue. It wasn't the solenoids or the large vacuum lines attached to the transfer case. While I was underneath the vehicle to pull those lines I saw the dangling end of the vacuum hose leading from the solenoid toward the hard vacuum lines along the firewall.
Reattached that and got 4WD to engage.
HAPPY FACTOR = 10+
I realized, unless someone tells me differently, that you have to put the clutch in when activating the "shift on the fly" 4WD button. I didn't know that and made a nice buzzing noise. No harm, I was doing 3-5 MPH, just enough wheel rotation to allow the front shaft to engage.
Tried it a bunch more times in and out of 4WD with the clutch pressed and no further noise from the transfer case.
I still don't have dash indicator lights but I'll fix that this weekend.
What a relief....
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #294
And to anyone who has done an A440F to H55F swap......any idea why shift on the fly can happen any time (under 50mph) on the automatic but on the H55 you have to press in the clutch. My brain just cant figure this out. The forward output shaft wouldn't know what type of transmission its attached to.
My assumption is that the automatic must momentarily and in-perceptively go into neutral for a second when 4wd is engaging?
Not having an issue
Just curious
My assumption is that the automatic must momentarily and in-perceptively go into neutral for a second when 4wd is engaging?
Not having an issue
Just curious
I’m not understanding the need to clutch to shift 4WD on the fly. Nothing has changed in the t-case. The system is designed to shift on the fly....assuming front hubs locked, straight line movement, no wheel spin, and no excessive load on the driveline.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #296
I know. It's a weird deal.
I sent a note to two of the top master diagnostic technicians back in Texas who I know. These guys train other master technicians.
Their gut is that the automatic gets a signal when the button is pushed and goes into neutral for a brief moment whereas the manual equivalent would be neutral or clutch pressed. I didn't try the neutral clutch not pressed and there is 12 inches of snow by wife wants me to shovel. If she sees me tinkering on the Land Cruiser I'll need a divorce attorney.
They'll dig into it and will give me their definitive answer by early next week (they are in the middle of a hunt right now).
They love a rabbit chase.
Also - I haven't been able to find anyone else addressing this oddity in their H55F swap threads. Since most folks do manual case 60's where they need to stop to manually engage.
It really isn't a major issue for me, I'm just wildly curious about the whole system at the moment.
I sent a note to two of the top master diagnostic technicians back in Texas who I know. These guys train other master technicians.
Their gut is that the automatic gets a signal when the button is pushed and goes into neutral for a brief moment whereas the manual equivalent would be neutral or clutch pressed. I didn't try the neutral clutch not pressed and there is 12 inches of snow by wife wants me to shovel. If she sees me tinkering on the Land Cruiser I'll need a divorce attorney.
They'll dig into it and will give me their definitive answer by early next week (they are in the middle of a hunt right now).
They love a rabbit chase.
Also - I haven't been able to find anyone else addressing this oddity in their H55F swap threads. Since most folks do manual case 60's where they need to stop to manually engage.
It really isn't a major issue for me, I'm just wildly curious about the whole system at the moment.
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If the hubs are locked, no matter whether H55F, H42, or A440F, you should be able to shift into and out of 4WD while moving, no need to shift into neutral.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #298
No need to press clutch either?
No. With the front hubs locked the front drive train and rear drive train plus t-case are all spinning at same rpm and this allows shifting in and out of 4WD on the fly.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #300
Hmmmm
thanks....now I have to figure out why mine buzzed trying to get in When not pressing the clutch.
Since some of the setbacks got me off balance yesterday and rhe day before, I’ll re-do the entire 4Wd sequence again.
If it should go in without a clutch push then another explanation would be not having the hubs locked.
That would have the rear shaft snd xfer rotating and front shaft not rotating which could cause the front axle clutch to buzz when it tried to engage the front shaft.
more news later,
thanks....now I have to figure out why mine buzzed trying to get in When not pressing the clutch.
Since some of the setbacks got me off balance yesterday and rhe day before, I’ll re-do the entire 4Wd sequence again.
If it should go in without a clutch push then another explanation would be not having the hubs locked.
That would have the rear shaft snd xfer rotating and front shaft not rotating which could cause the front axle clutch to buzz when it tried to engage the front shaft.
more news later,
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