tmxmotorsports
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The auto isn't electronic controlled by the button or anything else.
Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter EscapeWagon62
- Start date
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EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #302
Thanks you @Godwin and @tmxmotorsports Your feedback got me thinking straight again.
I have just gone to retest this and BINGO!!!
Somehow (probably because I was such a spaz after the wiring issues etc and wansnt of sound mind) I tested 4wd last night with hubs UNLOCKED. We must have locked them at the shop and I just instinctively turned them last night assuming I went to lockk.
I just drove it with the hubs LOCKED and it slipped right i to 4wd without issue or buzzing. Tried it at several speeds is all well.
I feel a little dumb right now (and yesterday sending out a 911 on electronics when it was a vacuum problem) but elated that its working as designed.
@Skniper I know your are just a few days behind me in your swap. Just assume Ive done all the dumb stuff so you dont have to
I have just gone to retest this and BINGO!!!
Somehow (probably because I was such a spaz after the wiring issues etc and wansnt of sound mind) I tested 4wd last night with hubs UNLOCKED. We must have locked them at the shop and I just instinctively turned them last night assuming I went to lockk.
I just drove it with the hubs LOCKED and it slipped right i to 4wd without issue or buzzing. Tried it at several speeds is all well.
I feel a little dumb right now (and yesterday sending out a 911 on electronics when it was a vacuum problem) but elated that its working as designed.
@Skniper I know your are just a few days behind me in your swap. Just assume Ive done all the dumb stuff so you dont have to
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Thanks you @Godwin and @tmxmotorsports Your feedback got me thinking straight again.
I have just gone to retest this and BINGO!!!
Somehow (probably because I was such a spaz after the wiring issues etc and wansnt of sound mind) I tested 4wd last night with hubs UNLOCKED. We must have locked them at the shop and I just instinctively turned them last night assuming I went to lockk.
I just drove it with the hubs LOCKED and it slipped right i to 4wd without issue or buzzing. Tried it at several speeds is all well.
I feel a little dumb right now (and yesterday sending out a 911 on electronics when it was a vacuum problem) but elated that its working as designed.
@Skniper I know your are just a few days behind me in your swap. Just assume Ive done all the dumb stuff so you dont have to
Oh I can assure you my procrastination is very strategic, sir.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #304
God bless Texas
Using one of my old plates as a donor to cover up the automatic shifter hole.
I’ll put some foam tape on top for noise deadening.
Using one of my old plates as a donor to cover up the automatic shifter hole.
I’ll put some foam tape on top for noise deadening.
I like that idea and gonna copy it, I have quite a few old plates around.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #306
Seems to work well
I did a version 2 which was big enough to cover the whole plate, that way I don’t even need to put the three screws back in.
Used some RTV when setting it down which will make it easy to pull out if the need ever arises.
Covered it in one sided 3M westherstrip tape and it’s good to go.
I am still adjusting the idle....what I noticed is that the throttle is hanging open just a smidge (like an 1/8th inch).
This is either because I need to re-lube the throttle cable linkage after cleaning up my intake
OR
And I actually think this may be the culprit...I need to adjust the dash pot. My theory on this that the kick-down cable added a bit of closing tension and with that no longer installed, the dashpot is holding it open.
I can just barely put pressure on the throttle cable linkage and it moves and the idle drops back down to normal.
I’ll see what happens to,orrow.
I did a version 2 which was big enough to cover the whole plate, that way I don’t even need to put the three screws back in.
Used some RTV when setting it down which will make it easy to pull out if the need ever arises.
Covered it in one sided 3M westherstrip tape and it’s good to go.
I am still adjusting the idle....what I noticed is that the throttle is hanging open just a smidge (like an 1/8th inch).
This is either because I need to re-lube the throttle cable linkage after cleaning up my intake
OR
And I actually think this may be the culprit...I need to adjust the dash pot. My theory on this that the kick-down cable added a bit of closing tension and with that no longer installed, the dashpot is holding it open.
I can just barely put pressure on the throttle cable linkage and it moves and the idle drops back down to normal.
I’ll see what happens to,orrow.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #307
Identified my idle issue. While it at first seemed like the dash pot or residual gunk accidentally left behind when I cleaned the throttle body....it turned out to be a very slight loosening adjustment on the throttle cable itself.
Drove the rig around today to see if I have any other mystery noises or issues before I button it all back up.
Loving the H55 so far
Drove the rig around today to see if I have any other mystery noises or issues before I button it all back up.
Loving the H55 so far
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #308
For you OCD folks out there.....whether 60 or 62.
I know these rigs aren’t designed to be quiet. I had done quite a bit of sound deadening prior to the H55 swap.
I noticed that the transfer case lever has two boots (inner and upper) whereas the stick shift only has the upper.
I could hear some road noise today and decided to address it now (I don‘t have the jute or carpet in yet but the road noise from the 5 speed shifter wouldn‘t be improved.
Tools:
one inner-tube (car, mountain bike). I used one from my winter fat bike.
one pair of scissors
one leather punch tool for holes
This provides some equivalency to the dual shift boots on the transfer case. I’ll test it out, maybe add another layer if needed.
I know these rigs aren’t designed to be quiet. I had done quite a bit of sound deadening prior to the H55 swap.
I noticed that the transfer case lever has two boots (inner and upper) whereas the stick shift only has the upper.
I could hear some road noise today and decided to address it now (I don‘t have the jute or carpet in yet but the road noise from the 5 speed shifter wouldn‘t be improved.
Tools:
one inner-tube (car, mountain bike). I used one from my winter fat bike.
one pair of scissors
one leather punch tool for holes
This provides some equivalency to the dual shift boots on the transfer case. I’ll test it out, maybe add another layer if needed.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #309
And here is a link to what I was looking into when my idle was high after the swap.
While the solution was simply loosening the accelerator cable (I tend to keep mine tighter for immediate throttle reaction)....the lack of the second cable (kickdwon) lowered the rotational force the throttle to fully close.
The video shows what I was looking at, and how I could move the throttle slightly (1/8 inch) manually.
While the solution was simply loosening the accelerator cable (I tend to keep mine tighter for immediate throttle reaction)....the lack of the second cable (kickdwon) lowered the rotational force the throttle to fully close.
The video shows what I was looking at, and how I could move the throttle slightly (1/8 inch) manually.
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Saving this idea for a later date! Not a fan of the new road noise that comes through there haha.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #311
Finally got around to installing the new @dnp carpet.
Even though I’ve done an install before there is some major pucker factor when cutting the holes.
I cut the basic spots for the trans and transfer shifters, Installed the shift boots and then trimmed until they fit correctly.
Ive found it a best practice to set the seat bolts in so that the carpet doesn’t rotate or move all all during the cutting process.
Added a layer of jute (used the cargo jute from my carpet kit) for some additional noise reduction.
Tomorrow we’ll adjust the clutch pedal play and tackle the last two wiring steps (reverse lights and 4wd light)
Even though I’ve done an install before there is some major pucker factor when cutting the holes.
I cut the basic spots for the trans and transfer shifters, Installed the shift boots and then trimmed until they fit correctly.
Ive found it a best practice to set the seat bolts in so that the carpet doesn’t rotate or move all all during the cutting process.
Added a layer of jute (used the cargo jute from my carpet kit) for some additional noise reduction.
Tomorrow we’ll adjust the clutch pedal play and tackle the last two wiring steps (reverse lights and 4wd light)
Looks great! How do you like the DNP carpet kit? High quality and very close to OEM? I am potentially going to tackle this in the future and want to use the best quality kit that is closest to OEM.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #313
Big fan of DNP
I installed a kit a couple years back and its holding up nicely. It‘s full loop which matches OEM.
Since I switched to 5 speed I had to re-do the front and ordered from them again. Unfortunately you have to buy a full kit so I now have spares for 2nd row and cargo aera.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 583
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- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
neat idea on the bike tire under the shifter boot but there should already be a inner shift boot, maybe you're missing it? That bike tire won't last long with the back and forth movement of the transmission pivoting on its mount over time
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #315
Hmmm
I’ll go look around online again for an inner boot. I have one on the transfer case shifter and have a boot at the base of the shifter but haven’t been aboe to find one for the transmission shifter opening that is similar to the transfer case in er boot.
As for the movement, the bike tube sits below the pivot point and just under the boot on top of the transmission. We’ll see how it handles heat
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #316
@Skniper
As for the linkage to the transfer case....the rod sleeve I was planning on wasn’t a great idea
Not enough room to install on the shifter end of the linkage after the bend as shown in the photos below.
It would be possible to use two sleeves and make cuts before and after the bend to get the right length but I ended up using a pre-made (used one) from cruiserparts
It appears that cut and weld is the better play
As for the linkage to the transfer case....the rod sleeve I was planning on wasn’t a great idea
Not enough room to install on the shifter end of the linkage after the bend as shown in the photos below.
It would be possible to use two sleeves and make cuts before and after the bend to get the right length but I ended up using a pre-made (used one) from cruiserparts
It appears that cut and weld is the better play
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #317
QUESTION REGARDING CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT AT END OF NOTE!!!
Transfer linkage installed, carpet installed and trimmed, seats are back in.
Can't thank @4Cruisers for his post (number 14 in h55 back up lights
My son had been struggling to get the reverse lights to work without blowing the gauge fuse, @4Cruisers writeup clarified our issue.
I'll take photos of our entire wiring paths tomorrow. I know there are a ton of writeups but for some reason our pea brains couldn't put it all together.
Glamor shots of interior.
QUESTION - My clutch seems to catch very high above the floorboard. It functions perfectly but just seems like it should be engaging earlier. Any advice on this appreciated. I have the correct amount of freeplay on the pedal but figured I'd ask.
Transfer linkage installed, carpet installed and trimmed, seats are back in.
Can't thank @4Cruisers for his post (number 14 in h55 back up lights
My son had been struggling to get the reverse lights to work without blowing the gauge fuse, @4Cruisers writeup clarified our issue.
I'll take photos of our entire wiring paths tomorrow. I know there are a ton of writeups but for some reason our pea brains couldn't put it all together.
Glamor shots of interior.
QUESTION - My clutch seems to catch very high above the floorboard. It functions perfectly but just seems like it should be engaging earlier. Any advice on this appreciated. I have the correct amount of freeplay on the pedal but figured I'd ask.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #318
We got the clutch pedal sorted out. We just had the clutch master rod too far out.
No luck on the 4WD light in the dash illuminating.
All other systems are go.
Later this week we’‘ll pull the switch and test it and follow the wiring path all the way to the switch and dash.
We’ll see if somehow we screwed something up when we we blowing fuses.
No luck on the 4WD light in the dash illuminating.
All other systems are go.
Later this week we’‘ll pull the switch and test it and follow the wiring path all the way to the switch and dash.
We’ll see if somehow we screwed something up when we we blowing fuses.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #319
Today was new shoes day.
While I love the H55F, the gearing with stock tires was just too low.
I put on some 31x10.5 BFG All Terrain KO2s and it evened out the gearing perfectly.
They also look perfectly proportioned in the wheel well on a stock height suspension.
While I love the H55F, the gearing with stock tires was just too low.
I put on some 31x10.5 BFG All Terrain KO2s and it evened out the gearing perfectly.
They also look perfectly proportioned in the wheel well on a stock height suspension.
She looks perfect! So stoked for you!
