Are these from a cruiser oriented shop? I've always wondered if I get my calipers at a local parts store, would they be really rebuilt OEM parts or just calipers that fit.
Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter EscapeWagon62
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #162
For this one I just got it via AutoZone which is remanufactured (likely OEM origin remanufactured by Dorman or similar)
$44 plus a core charge. Part number C8554 Duralast Unbraketed. Absolute perfect match.
on the other hand, I bought a brake booster from them a year or so ago and that sucker blew the other day which caused a little pucker factor. I ordered one from CityRacer which I bet will be higher quality.
I can relate all too well. Ours was knocking on death's door. Even 45 minute drives would boil it over. I'm excited to put some serious miles on her now with that manual!
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #164
Well my long long long mission to get the brakes sorted has finally paid off.
When I bought this rig the brake booster didn’t work and I replaced it with a cheap aftermarket. There was significant improvement but I was never really satisfied with the braking performance. I’d adjust pedal play, adjust the LSPV, changed rotors and pads. It was functional but I couldn’t lock the brakes up.
Well the cheap aftermarket brake booster popped and lost vacuum. I ordered a high quality unit from City Racer and BINGO! Strong brake feel, good modulation and I can lock up the brakes now.
I never had a reference FJ62 nearby to compare my truck to so I guess I didn’t know what I didn’t know about how it was supposed to feel.
Somehow I lost my brake booster tool in my move to the Northeast so I fashioned one out of some foam board and a spray tube from a WD-40 can
When I bought this rig the brake booster didn’t work and I replaced it with a cheap aftermarket. There was significant improvement but I was never really satisfied with the braking performance. I’d adjust pedal play, adjust the LSPV, changed rotors and pads. It was functional but I couldn’t lock the brakes up.
Well the cheap aftermarket brake booster popped and lost vacuum. I ordered a high quality unit from City Racer and BINGO! Strong brake feel, good modulation and I can lock up the brakes now.
I never had a reference FJ62 nearby to compare my truck to so I guess I didn’t know what I didn’t know about how it was supposed to feel.
Somehow I lost my brake booster tool in my move to the Northeast so I fashioned one out of some foam board and a spray tube from a WD-40 can
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #165
Assembling more bits and pieces for the December 55F swap
Cleaned up the drive shafts, still need to spray with final coat, replace the joints and have them balanced.
Got the replacement carpet kit from @dnp
5 speed shifter knob and clutch fork boot from @cityracer
Transfer case linkage resized to mate with my vacuum activated case from Cruiserparts.net
Resurfaced flywheel and yet to be cleaned up hard and soft clutch lines from CruiserParts.net
Cleaned up the drive shafts, still need to spray with final coat, replace the joints and have them balanced.
Got the replacement carpet kit from @dnp
5 speed shifter knob and clutch fork boot from @cityracer
Transfer case linkage resized to mate with my vacuum activated case from Cruiserparts.net
Resurfaced flywheel and yet to be cleaned up hard and soft clutch lines from CruiserParts.net
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #166
And cleaned up the pedals, transmission insulator, clutch fork and final spray on the drive shafts
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Now would be a good time to replace those little rubber bumpers on the pedals mainly the brake one for the brake light stitch
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I have the part # wrote down somewhere
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #169
Ive got a new one to put in.
already had one fail, figured I’d keep a spare
thanks for the note, solid advice
already had one fail, figured I’d keep a spare
thanks for the note, solid advice
If the rubber on your trans isolator is starting to break down, you can clean it up and coat it with 3M windshield urethane. It will help seal it up and last a bit longer.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #171
Very much appreciated that @FJACS
I’ll give it a coat of 3M
I can’t see any separation of the rubber from the upper or lower steel plates and I’ll keep my fingers crossed that it lasts.
I can just envision myself saying “honey, look how much I saved by buying used“ as I’m swapping this one out for a new one in three years
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
You’re gonna love the 55 conversion. I’m wrapping up my second 62 swap as we speak. Curious about your cross member and bell housing. You have the early version cross member and what I believe is the later bell housing (clocked “x” degrees). I’ve done 55 swaps on early 60’s using this cross member and not 100% certain this early cross member mates up with the later bell housing (alignment issues). I could be wrong but may want to verify. If this is the case the simple solution is to source a late 60 cross member. You want it clocked as that puts your shifter in the correct factory position. Also, what are your plans for mounting the cross member to the frame? Many simple options on this but one thing I learned on this last conversion is the angle of the cross member needs to have a slight rake. In other words you don’t want it to be flush to the frame on both the front and back. If you look at a late 60 you’ll see the factory setup has the cross member tilting down (3/4” gap between the back of the cross member and the frame). The front of the cross member will sit flush to the frame. You may already know this but thought I’d share as I made this mistake on my brothers 62 when I did his conversion years ago. The main issue this will cause is it puts the trans insulator in a bind and can cause premature failure. Here’s a pick I referenced for my last job. Good luck and feel free to ping me with any questions. Jimmy
Also added a pic showing how to re-wire things going to your trans/t-case. I don’t want to re-learn this next time I do a conversion 
. This by-passes the neutral safety switch.
. This by-passes the neutral safety switch.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #173
Awesome feedback.You’re gonna love the 55 conversion. I’m wrapping up my second 62 swap as we speak. Curious about your cross member and bell housing. You have the early version cross member and what I believe is the later bell housing (clocked “x” degrees). I’ve done 55 swaps on early 60’s using this cross member and not 100% certain this early cross member mates up with the later bell housing (alignment issues). I could be wrong but may want to verify. If this is the case the simple solution is to source a late 60 cross member. You want it clocked as that puts your shifter in the correct factory position. Also, what are your plans for mounting the cross member to the frame? Many simple options on this but one thing I learned on this last conversion is the angle of the cross member needs to have a slight rake. In other words you don’t want it to be flush to the frame on both the front and back. If you look at a late 60 you’ll see the factory setup has the cross member tilting down (3/4” gap between the back of the cross member and the frame). The front of the cross member will sit flush to the frame. You may already know this but thought I’d share as I made this mistake on my brothers 62 when I did his conversion years ago. The main issue this will cause is it puts the trans insulator in a bind and can cause premature failure. Here’s a pick I referenced for my last job. Good luck and feel free to ping me with any questions. Jimmy
View attachment 2468481View attachment 2468482Also added a pic showing how to re-wire things going to your trans/t-case. I don’t want to re-learn this next time I do a conversion
and you are the second person to note this. I did call Curt up at CruiserParts and he says he’s done several with the setup I have but....just in case I’m going to source a later cross member ad Just found the associated insulator for like $30 on eBay.
I see several aftermarket (cruiser enthusiast) versions on a later cross member. If anyone as experience with those I’d appreciate the feedback. Otherwise I’ll start searching for a later model OEM.
I only have a few days to pull it off ever Christmas as I’m borrowing a lift and space from a local dealership do get it done. I think my pals will be pissed if I’m stuck partway through the build and tie up their service department too long waiting for parts.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #174
And thank you for the wiring diagram!!!You’re gonna love the 55 conversion. I’m wrapping up my second 62 swap as we speak. Curious about your cross member and bell housing. You have the early version cross member and what I believe is the later bell housing (clocked “x” degrees). I’ve done 55 swaps on early 60’s using this cross member and not 100% certain this early cross member mates up with the later bell housing (alignment issues). I could be wrong but may want to verify. If this is the case the simple solution is to source a late 60 cross member. You want it clocked as that puts your shifter in the correct factory position. Also, what are your plans for mounting the cross member to the frame? Many simple options on this but one thing I learned on this last conversion is the angle of the cross member needs to have a slight rake. In other words you don’t want it to be flush to the frame on both the front and back. If you look at a late 60 you’ll see the factory setup has the cross member tilting down (3/4” gap between the back of the cross member and the frame). The front of the cross member will sit flush to the frame. You may already know this but thought I’d share as I made this mistake on my brothers 62 when I did his conversion years ago. The main issue this will cause is it puts the trans insulator in a bind and can cause premature failure. Here’s a pick I referenced for my last job. Good luck and feel free to ping me with any questions. Jimmy
View attachment 2468481View attachment 2468482Also added a pic showing how to re-wire things going to your trans/t-case. I don’t want to re-learn this next time I do a conversion
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #175
Ok, since not wanting to hear the truth doesn’t work, looks like my parts ain’t gonna cut it.
I’ve taken the advice of @Vasopressor @3_puppies and @CenTXFJ60 and have the late model crossmember and isolator on order.
Thanks to all.
I’ve taken the advice of @Vasopressor @3_puppies and @CenTXFJ60 and have the late model crossmember and isolator on order.
Thanks to all.
@CenTXFJ60 gives solid advice on the crossmember mounts not sitting flush to the frame. If you look at your current auto trans crossmember, you will see the slight rearward tilt away from the frame.
@Paul DiNapoli covered this pretty good in his swap thread.
@Paul DiNapoli covered this pretty good in his swap thread.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #178
And sharing some info that came in or went out via DM
Thanks @Skniper for the advice on doing the pedal bucket swap in advance as it slows down the swap. OUTSTANDING ADVICE.
Also - Cruiser Parts does offer a revised linkage that will mate the vacuum activated T-case from an FJ62 to an H55f. Mine took a month but it looks like solid workmanship.
Thanks @Skniper for the advice on doing the pedal bucket swap in advance as it slows down the swap. OUTSTANDING ADVICE.
Also - Cruiser Parts does offer a revised linkage that will mate the vacuum activated T-case from an FJ62 to an H55f. Mine took a month but it looks like solid workmanship.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #179
@CenTXFJ60You’re gonna love the 55 conversion. I’m wrapping up my second 62 swap as we speak. Curious about your cross member and bell housing. You have the early version cross member and what I believe is the later bell housing (clocked “x” degrees). I’ve done 55 swaps on early 60’s using this cross member and not 100% certain this early cross member mates up with the later bell housing (alignment issues). I could be wrong but may want to verify. If this is the case the simple solution is to source a late 60 cross member. You want it clocked as that puts your shifter in the correct factory position. Also, what are your plans for mounting the cross member to the frame? Many simple options on this but one thing I learned on this last conversion is the angle of the cross member needs to have a slight rake. In other words you don’t want it to be flush to the frame on both the front and back. If you look at a late 60 you’ll see the factory setup has the cross member tilting down (3/4” gap between the back of the cross member and the frame). The front of the cross member will sit flush to the frame. You may already know this but thought I’d share as I made this mistake on my brothers 62 when I did his conversion years ago. The main issue this will cause is it puts the trans insulator in a bind and can cause premature failure. Here’s a pick I referenced for my last job. Good luck and feel free to ping me with any questions. Jimmy
View attachment 2468481View attachment 2468482Also added a pic showing how to re-wire things going to your trans/t-case. I don’t want to re-learn this next time I do a conversion
I’m not a metal worker but I will have a guy with fabrication skills on my team.
How difficult was it to get the angle iron to match the profile of the bottom bracket? The way you did it looks like Great craftsmanship
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
. I believe it’s 1/4” steel with the holes drilled to match the bolt pattern on the cross member. I loosely bolted the bottom piece to the cross member and held it in place (to the frame), then clamped the vertical pieces (same diameter) and then tacked the three pieces together as well as to the frame. Dropped the cross member and then I burned them in. I’ve seen folks use 1/4” angle iron with the same results. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks. Jimmy
