Builds The 75 Musturd Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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I know!! I couldn't talk her out if it! The price was right, I'm interested to see how it holds up over time.
One advantage is that she doesn't mind me spending $$ on the 40 anymore after seeing parts costs on the disco ;)
 
Instead of starting a new thread, maybe someone can chime in on this question. A few years back I seem to remember being able to find 15x8 wagon wheels with 3.25" backspacing for pretty cheap through someplace like Summit. My searching skills must be weak because I can't find any steel wheels with these specs. I can find 2.5" and 3.75" backspace, but nothing with 3.25. Any suggestions?
 
I couldn't find any, I ended up with 17s for a few reasons:
Found 3.5" backspacing
I want to run 37s and tires are more available on 17
I wanted to use V6 front calipers and the 15" alums wouldn't clear, 17s have lots of room. Didn't want to chance it on 15 steelies
 
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After some debating I decided it would be best to try and make it a driver for the summer. I have a pretty big list of stuff I need, and will buy stuff as I can afford it. For starters an oil change was in order and the three point seat belts arrived (military Hummer surplus).
 
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After some debating I decided it would be best to try and make it a driver for the summer. I have a pretty big list of stuff I need, and will buy stuff as I can afford it. For starters an oil change was in order and the three point seat belts arrived (military Hummer surplus).

I'm not knowledgeable on the subject and when I try to research it honestly goes in one ear and out the other so I have to go back when it's time for the next oil change every time but from what I've seen on here these old motors do better with a high in zinc zddp content oil and an additive with it as well for they type of tapit engine

I say keep it and drive it
Just cover underside with fluid film and enjoy it until the salt trucks come out
 
That Mobil 1 is not the typical stuff, it has all the good stuff for race or classic applications with extra zinc and phosphorus. The best part is the 2f sounds the best it ever has with it on board and it was on clearance for $3 bucks a quart.
 
@kbahus I run the same oil-lots of ZDDP in that stuff!
 
While progress is slow I did manage to make some improvements. I swapped my relay and tie rods with a used assembly I picked up from somewhere. While not perfect, my scary steering is less scary now and it was essentially a free upgrade. Last week I replaced the fuel filters and checked the air filter. Today, with the help of my son, checked the timing and adjusted the carb for the flatlands. She runs pretty well now, well enough we took her for an afternoon cruise!

To address the ride height problems and driveshaft bind I threw my GX470 wheel and tire set in the back, I wish I could get it dialed in exactly the same without having to add the weight in the back. The Mohave springs are just right as far as spring rate goes, they just lift it too high.

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I also started the Humvee three point seat belt install today. Ended up using the entire hardware package on one side as I needed two 90-degree brackets, need to order another to do the other side.

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The old girl started running quite poorly last weekend out of he blue. I initially though the fuel pump was draining fuel into the crankcase as I watched my fuel drain down out of my fuel filter and my fresh oil smelled like fuel. @Racer65 hooked me up with a shinny new fuel pump but it drains down the same way, I likely misdiagnosed that one but at least now it is not a worry.

I checked the idle valve and with it disconnected the engine dies, so that is a plus. I pulled the plugs and holy smokes what a mess! I get some blue smoke on start up, but my plugs were hosed. I decided to run a compression test just in case and I was pretty happy with what I found:

1-150
2-140
3-137
4-140
5-140
6-145

The engine is also pulling over 20" of vacuum at idle rulling out vacuum leaks. After replacing the spark plugs and adjusting the carb it seems to be running better than it was. I started adjusting the valves but had to stop in the middle of the process. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish up the process.

One question I have is how easy is it to do valve stem seals with the head on and using compressed air in the cylinder?

Another question, would a piece of debris in the float bowl cause intermittent poor running?

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My wife informed that four years ago today we drove the 40 home out of the field it was living in. While progress is slow, I am glad it's still alive!

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Finally stretched her legs today and went for a drive to the local bike park. The 40 has not seen the open road since 2014, it was glorious. Still plenty of work ahead, but it may have to wait I until spring.

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Looks like you have long shackles in the back and short shackles up front which probably raises the rear an inch. You say your driveshaft binds? I've only done valve seals with the head on the bench. I imagine it's not terrible in vehicle on a 40. Is the smoke that bad?

The suspension is certainly a charlie foxtrot at this point. I don't think I can run a shorter shackle in the rear due to the length of the rear springs. On compression I will bind the spring. I have considered raising the front, but it would need to come up a lot to level it. The 4" front springs are not even close to the lift the rears provide. If you look there is a full set of GX wheels and tires in the back, plus the bike, and a set of tire chains in a bucket. With that much weight in the back it sits about right. So it is either buy a full rear bumper for a large chunk of cash to add static weight to the rear, or buy a new set of springs. Either way is not cheap these days. I kick myself every day for not stripping that OME suspension of the old red truck.

It usually only smokes on start up, so it's not too bad. It's one of those things that needs to be done some day, but not a major issue.
 
I would try longer front shackles first, lifted springs need long shackles to move through there arc. You will likely need to install front shims to bring the caster back after doing this which requires a new center pin usually-i just use a grade 8 bolt for that. If that doesn't lift it enough then I would pull a leaf from the rear spring packs. You can always set the leafs aside until you if ever install a rear bumper. Should only take a hour or two to pull a leaf. If you have the cruiser lean, then just pull a leaf from the high side.
 
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After a few years of living outside it finally has a home inside! Also got it registered in Indiana, sad to see the Colorado plates leave. Hopefully I can get some work done on it now!
 

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