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Pretty sure the inside of the hardtop and amby doors are a perfect match to your rig!
 
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Pretty sure the inside of the hardtop and amby doors is a perfect match to your rig!
Yeah if we weren't so far away I'd totally do a swap. Although the 2 tone sort of grows on you after a while. I actually have the hardtop off right now and just sporting a used soft top since I was thinking of having it painted but I'm too cheap to do that so far.
 
The hardtop is the nicest part of my rig and I can thank @FJ40zen for it. Someday I will get it painted, but I am in the same boat as you with actually getting it done.

I also thought about doing another ghetto paint job like I did on the front doors with tractor paint, but the match was not as good as I hoped. It's not bad, but it is not close enough to go through the hassle. On the bib I used some exterior paint that home depot mixed up for me, and shockingly it has held up for many years of outside living. It's nearly a perfect match too, but again, I am not sure if it is worth the hassle vs having it done by a pro.
 
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The hardtop is the nicest part of my rig and I can thank @FJ40zen for it. Someday I will get it painted, but I am in the same boat as you with actually getting it done.

I also thought about doing another ghetto paint job like I did on the front doors with tractor paint, but the match was not as good as I hoped. It's not bad, but it is not close enough to go through the hassle. On the bib I used some exterior paint that home depot mixed up for me, and shockingly it has held up for many years of outside living. It's nearly a perfect match too, but again, I am not sure if it is worth the hassle vs having it done by a pro.
I had sort of given up to the fact that I have to have it professionally done, but you saying that makes me want to give it a try at painting it rattle can myself and trying to match it close enough. That might get me by for the time being until maybe I actually spend the $ to have the whole thing painted. Hmm:hmm::hmm:
 
I had sort of given up to the fact that I have to have it professionally done, but you saying that makes me want to give it a try at painting it rattle can myself and trying to match it close enough. That might get me by for the time being until maybe I actually spend the $ to have the whole thing painted. Hmm:hmm::hmm:


It can be hard to find a painter that wants to mess with these or restoration work. I’ve also learned that with something you care about like your own personal cruiser you tend to care more than a professional so your research before hand can make you do a better job.

Though paint may be the type of thing where an experienced hand does get better results from years of practice but a front knuckle job could probably be done better at home by one following directions vs a guy getting paid to do as quick as can


Could always try your hand and if it isn’t great it get done again later
 
It can be hard to find a painter that wants to mess with these or restoration work. I’ve also learned that with something you care about like your own personal cruiser you tend to care more than a professional so your research before hand can make you do a better job.

Though paint may be the type of thing where an experienced hand does get better results from years of practice but a front knuckle job could probably be done better at home by one following directions vs a guy getting paid to do as quick as can


Could always try your hand and if it isn’t great it get done again later
Well said, I think that's some good words of advice.
 
Time to get some work done now that I have a garage!

The first order of business is replacing the broken door handle with an aftermarket unit from CruiserCorps. After pulling the door card I noticed that maybe I should do something about the rust on the bottom of the door before it gets out of control. Being down in the door and tough to access , any advice to stop the progression?

Also, scored another BFG A/T KO for my spare and my Historic plate came in!

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Got a little work done today! Pulled a leaf from the left side Mohave spring pack, next up is the right side. I am real curious to see how this pans out. I love the ride of these springs, but they lift the truck to the moon. Hopefully this will drop it down in the back, but not soften it up too much. At least I will only have labor into the experiment if it goes poorly. Also got the broken door handle finished up.

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Got a little work done today! Pulled a leaf from the left side Mohave spring pack, next up is the right side. I am real curious to see how this pans out. I love the ride of these springs, but they lift the truck to the moon. Hopefully this will drop it down in the back, but not soften it up too much. At least I will only have labor into the experiment if it goes poorly. Also got the broken door handle finished up.

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What is that smaller Piece? Is that a rubber pad or something between the leafs?
 
Got a little work done today! Pulled a leaf from the left side Mohave spring pack, next up is the right side. I am real curious to see how this pans out. I love the ride of these springs, but they lift the truck to the moon. Hopefully this will drop it down in the back, but not soften it up too much. At least I will only have labor into the experiment if it goes poorly. Also got the broken door handle finished up.

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interesting to me at this time, Ill be watching to see how you like it after removing leafs. Ive not been happy with whichever brand lift a previous owner did on mine, from what I can tell its a pro-comp 4 in. Way to tall and stiff with some odd axle wrap vibrations at times usually when slowing down but hard for me to recreate when I try so its made diagnosing the source harder.
And the mrs doesn't like having to climb all the way out and in for the bumpy ride.

I would think some rattle can rust reformer and rattle can paint on the inside of the doors to stop rust from spreading more maybe some fluid film in there and cover whats there. Ive had more than half a dozen doors over time and they all get crunchy in the same spot its very frustrating. I have also seen people on here go with dumping some por 15 and splashing it around inside to coat the metal but i would save that for after a door is repaired since por 15 is more $$

Congrats on getting a garage. Now you can start collecting more tools. One of the things my grandfather always said when he was alive was put your tools up when you are done so you will know where they are when you need them next. I hope your new garage treats you and your cruiser well
 
What is that smaller Piece? Is that a rubber pad or something between the leafs?

It is a metal shim that was between the leafs. Each leaf has one, there are also plastic pads toward the end of the springs too. These 4plus springs are well built compared to others.
 
Time to get some work done now that I have a garage!

The first order of business is replacing the broken door handle with an aftermarket unit from CruiserCorps. After pulling the door card I noticed that maybe I should do something about the rust on the bottom of the door before it gets out of control. Being down in the door and tough to access , any advice to stop the progression?

Also, scored another BFG A/T KO for my spare and my Historic plate came in!

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i feel like every other state other than my state of Kansas has cool antique tags ours looks like a dealers tag but a cool thing we can do is run an original year tag for the truck thats what im going to do
 
Today was a great day, @69LC dropped by and delivered some cruiser goodness in the form of five stock wheels (thanks again!). It was fantastic meeting a local Land Cruiser enthusiast, looking forward to summer get-togethers in the Michigan region.

Some great headway has been made as the weather to improves. A friend wanted to purchase my current wheels/tires so I ended up ordering a set of 33x10.50 Dick Cepek Extreme Country tires and will be mounting them on the stock wheels from 69LC. I am considering having the wheels blasted and powder coated, but also thinking about cleaning them up with some CLR or similar product and running them as is. My only concern is the rust coming back and in quick order. Any tips?

I also had time to pull my driveshaft and drive it around in front wheel drive to verify a driveline vibration. After measuring my pinion and tcase flange angles I ordered some 2 degree shims from Georg @ Valley Hybrids. They shipped hours after ordering and were sitting in the mail today, great service from Valley Hybrids! Hopefully Monday I can get the other leaf removed and put the shims in-place.


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I hope you give a report on how she drives after removal of a spring, considering the same mod on mine. Thanks.
 
I removed the bottom leaf of the left pack so far, it made a noticeable change in spring rate. When accelerating I notice the rear squatting a little which it has never done. Shackle angle improved as well. I am going to pull the right side bottom leaf tomorrow if the weather cooperates. The truck has always had a better shackle angle on the passenger side compared to the driver side. Even with the driver side leaf removed the shackle angle is not the same, but it is close.

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Pulled the driver side leaf and installed the 2 degree shim. Also replaced a bad bushing on that side. I still need to install the correction shim on the other side before setting it down. Ran out of time today.

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I pulled the other leaf today and got the shim install wrapped up. I was hoping for more of a drop in ride height, but it ended about the same as the last picture. The ride is pretty good and it seems like it could be nice and flexy on the trail. I think with a full size spare eventually hanging off the back it will come down just a touch more and be good. It's pretty light in the back with no tire carrier, spare, rear seats, etc.

My driveline vibration is virtually eliminated which makes me super happy. There is still just a little vibration felt only in 3rd gear, just after shifting. I did find the right rear transmission mount to be very soft, I could easily move it around with the pry bar so I am going to tackle that next.

The Dick Cepek tires have been back ordered, hopefully they show up one of these days.....
 
I pulled the other leaf today and got the shim install wrapped up. I was hoping for more of a drop in ride height, but it ended about the same as the last picture. The ride is pretty good and it seems like it could be nice and flexy on the trail. I think with a full size spare eventually hanging off the back it will come down just a touch more and be good. It's pretty light in the back with no tire carrier, spare, rear seats, etc.

My driveline vibration is virtually eliminated which makes me super happy. There is still just a little vibration felt only in 3rd gear, just after shifting. I did find the right rear transmission mount to be very soft, I could easily move it around with the pry bar so I am going to tackle that next.

The Dick Cepek tires have been back ordered, hopefully they show up one of these days.....
Rock auto has rear beck arnley motor mounts for pretty cheap. The DEA front motor mounts they list on rock auto are afaik the oem mounts b4 they are packaged by toyota if you want to do the fronts too.
 

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