Builds The 75 Musturd Build Thread (2 Viewers)

[kbahus]

Figure I should start a build thread as this is going to be a long term project to say the least. Pulled it from a field where it had sat for the last few years. It's rough but I am going to embrace it for what it is and not worry so much about aesthetics. After selling my last 75 (that was a disaster) a few years ago I didn't think I would be able to get into another 40 anytime soon but the sun and moon must have been in alignment because here it is, the wife even encouraged me to go for it.

The day I picked it up:

Finding time to work on it has been tough and I feel that I can only spend 30 minutes at a time working on it between work, school, and family. So far I have been able to fix a wobbly crank pulley that damaged the keyway, repair the leaking radiator, install new plugs, cap, and rotor, drain the fuel, install a battery and hold down, change the oil, swap seats, and clean out the interior.

I drove it last night to the gas station and found a pretty nasty driveline vibration at 40ish mph and it was running like the fuel filter is plugged. I need to look into those things today hopefully. I have my fingers crossed that the driveshaft is out of phase.

More pics and updates to follow!

 

[Dieseler]

Luv the bumper

 

[wardriver]

I love it. All of it, the color, the bumper, the shape. The fact that you pulled it out of a field.

Good save.

 

[kbahus]

Thanks guys! Today was a pretty ground breaking day as I was able to drive it to school and back which is about a 6 mile round trip. It's running well now that I have drained the tank and replaced the fuel filter again. The tcase has a pretty steady leak from the parking brake drum and the speedo cable areas that is going to have to be addressed soon. Also the shackle angle is terrible causing a extremely rough ride and something is causing a good clunk in the driveline as well as a vibration under load. (shafts look to be in phase).

 

[kbahus]

Aside from the crank pulley problems I had earlier looks like I have found my second major hurdle. I originally drained the tank of the two year old fuel, swapped filters and thought I would be good but this is what I am getting after a few miles of driving. All I can figure is there was a ton of rust in the tank and driving around has sloshed the fuel and caused it all to come loose. I swapped some new filters in for my short drive to work today and now they pretty much look the same. I have read that it's hard to clean these tanks due to the baffling inside of them and buying a new tank is often the best option, but oem tanks are really expensive and the only other option I see is a poly tank from Cruiser Corps but have not heard anything good about poly tanks. The budget is slim and I am open to suggestions.

 

[skidplate]

I would buy one of those glass gas filters that you can remove and clean the screen. I replaced my tank several months ago with one that had been cleaned and sealed by a reputable shop, but had then sat in a garage for a few years. I'm still pulling the fuel filter every couple of weeks to clean the screen of very small "rust dust".

 

[coleman2347]

You have a great start, much better than a lot of folks here..I totally agree with skidplate to install a couple of glass gravity filters you can just clean the screen and dump the gas in them...Im thinking NAPA or tractor supply store...

 

[kbahus]

I ran over to my local farm and ranch store and found some sediment filters I could make work, the trouble is one is $29.99 plus about $10 in fittings and hose so I would have about $40 into one and was not confident it would function as well as I am hoping. Anyone run a sediment filter on their rig with success?

When I got back home I popped the fuel sender out and took a look into the tank to see exactly what I am dealing with. It's got a pretty good layer of rust that I could scrape/flake off with a screwdriver. So my next question is should I pull and have the tank cleaned or just save up my pennies and replace it? The CCOT metal tank is $240 so not too bad in the grand scheme of things.

I also started pulling the sound/heat barrier off the floor pan and wow is it a mess under there. Does anyone have any pics of basic sheet metal floor pan patches they have done? I am going to have to do something before I fall through the floor on that front left seat mount. The passenger side doesn't look too bad though!

 

[cruiserjunkie]

Id have the tank cleaned or get new ome one. You can remove it bang on with a mallet and try and knock the big stuff off and shake it out the sender hole and than coat the with the por 15 fuel tank kit reviews have been mixed though. Also will proably find rust under the tank on the floor pan

 

[kbahus]

It's been a while but ended up having to replace the tank. I found a local Rising Sun member that sold me a new poly tank for a price I couldn't pass up. It's at least going to get me back on the road which will be nice. I pulled the old tank to find more rust, dirt, and plenty of trash underneath. Cleaned up all up and was left with just enough floor pan to support the tank. Popped the tank in today and hopefully will get it plumbed over the next few days. It's tough to get anything accomplished when I only get short periods of time to work on it.

 

[kbahus]

Got the tank installed and plumbed in yesterday and put her back together. Replaced the fuel filters and instantly I noticed it was running much better than before. Took it to work without any problem but when I tried to come home it was acting up again just like before with symptoms of a plugged fuel filter. It also backfired through the carb on me once which it has not done before. I am thinking it is still starving for fuel. It started snowing so I have not had a chance to check the filters but I am leaning towards the carb. I had previously pulled the inlet and flushed the float bowl with some carb cleaner but I think I have bigger problems. With all of the junk in my old tank I am not surprised.

I watched Pinhead's rebuild videos but am thinking maybe a Trollhole carb is the easy way out. I am tempted to pull the top cap of the carb and see if I see anything obvious. It sounds like I have to pull the needle/seat to get to the screen filter and see if that is plugged up. Are there any other problem spots that easily get plugged with debris I can check?

 

[kbahus]

Drained the float bowl and more junk came out so I decided to pull it, ended up finding some interesting things......

-The idle solenoid wire appeared to be connected but was not, you can see the bare end of the wire in one of the pics.

-The carb has clearly been apart before as most of the screws are stripped out which really stinks as I just sold my spare carb.

-Both venturi's are labeled "1" and appear to be identical which I believe to be incorrect?

-Fuel found in the intake manifold.

-Idle screw looks non-oem but I asked about this before.

So it looks like my hopes of simply pulling the top cap and cleaning the inlet screen are likely over. Any other thoughts on what you see?

 

[edwjmcgrath]

There are lots of things that can cause fuel starvation. When you say symptoms of a clogged fuel filter, that means to me that it will idle fine and run ok at low speed but bucks and hesitates at high speed or under load.
It's likely to be either in the carb or a fuel pump starting to fail. Now that you've got the carb off, give the rebuild a shot. If you are detail oriented, it'll take two hours or so to disassemble carefully, soak overnight, then a couple hours to assemble carefully. It's not that difficult if you are careful and way less expensive.

FYI, if your carb had a screen, it would have been right behind the inlet port that you've already removed.

 

[kbahus]

Yup, idles fine and bucks and hesitates under load. I was actually on board with taking it all apart but I have lost my confidence since it's been apart before and who knows what got screwed up. I suppose at this point it doesn't hurt to dive in.

 

[Pin_Head]

My local radiator guy boiled out my gas tank, cleaned it, brazed up the leaking holes, sealed it, pressure tested and painted it for $40. No more rust or sediment problems.

 

[kbahus]

I did replace the tank with a new poly tank, the filters are clean too. I actually picked up the poly tank for cheaper than what they wanted to charge me locally to boil out the stock tank.

What do you think Pin_Head? Is it worth rebuilding this carb as it sits?

 

[sggoat]

Go to Pin_Head's videos on carb rebuild--he makes it easy(follow his advice EXACTLY). You can get a new rebuild kit from RockAuto for ~$50(Std Motor products #791B). I've got some spare leftover parts if you need them(free for the ride)
I had to make my own "carb adjustment tool", since Toyota doesn't make them anymore-secondary throttle and choke kickup, primary idle adj.--made out of brass stock--can loan to you if you need
This truck looks better than a lot I've seen(don't you dare change the color!)
I absolutely luv the bumper!
Keep the build and pics coming.
Here's mine--before and after

 

[Pin_Head]

Rebuilding carbs is always rolling the dice: It doesn't usually come up snake eyes, but it can.

You can see from the F'ed up screws that someone has already been in there, so who knows what they did. It looks like the stock carb, so it is exactly like the one in the Youtube video.

I still have that carb if someone needs a spare. I sold my 40 two years ago, so I don't need it.

People have troubles with the poly tank, so don't throw your rusted one away just yet.

 

[sggoat]

So if you don't need it, could I get it?
(parts,etc.)
Gary

Rebuilding carbs is always rolling the dice: It doesn't usually come up snake eyes, but it can.

You can see from the F'ed up screws that someone has already been in there, so who knows what they did. It looks like the stock carb, so it is exactly like the one in the Youtube video.

I still have that carb if someone needs a spare. I sold my 40 two years ago, so I don't need it.

People have troubles with the poly tank, so don't throw your rusted one away just yet.

 

[sggoat]

Just read your post again and paid more attention to the details--you may indeed have gunk that made it's way into the carb-hopefully the needle valve screen caught most of it. If you rebuild the carb(recommended), remember the screen does not come with the kit, so you will need to treat this with care-don't put it in the carburetor dip, as it prob. has a plastic framework for the screen-try Purple Super Clean soap-it shouldn't hurt the plastic if you don't leave it in the solution for more than 15 minutes. Take it out and scrub with a toothbrush, rinse and blow out with air.
Also, the Berryman carb dip folks do not recommend leaving aluminum parts in the dip for more than 4 hours.
Good luck