78 FJ 40 project Frank

[alabamatacomaguy]

The reason for this thread is to document the cruiser. Hopefully it's progress and get advice from people that have more knowledge than myself about older Toyotas and Land Cruisers.

I picked up the 78 40 wanting something I could rebuild/repair overtime but wanted it to be in sound driving condition. That way I could still drive it and take to a professional when something is out of my skill set or adapt and learn something new when the time comes to fix it. I have always dreamed of an fj project and figured it would only be in the very distance future, that is until I found a good running and sound framed 40 in my area and couldn't resist so I took the leap and became an owner.

The body is rough in some areas and will need a few parts cut out and replaced or patched. But for now I'll talk about the good. After picking up the truck I drove it about 60 miles round trip to show some friends. It drove petty well and except for losing a softop that wasn't properly secured.
I parked it for the night and then the next morning drove it 60 miles to its storage with little problems just lot's of popping in the steering but that will be fixed pretty quickly hopefully with a tre kit from cool cruisers and a top draglink kit from sor. He drank about 7 gallons of non ethanol gas which seemed about right to me.

The plan with this is to get it into safe driving shape and then repair things as I go getting the body into as good a shape as I can while driving it.


I am actually weighing the option of a new tub vs repairing the one I have with pricing right now as I can't weld. But at a very minimum the drivers floor panel will need replacing very soon before I fall through but the rest of the floor is in good shape. The front fenders will need replacing as well as the panels under the passenger doors have rust holes and a few small holes under the taillights. The hood, hard top sides, ambulance and passenger doors that came for it are basically good for the small pieces like glass and hardware; time and rust have been cruel to them.

Its a project but that's the point

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[alabamatacomaguy]

A weber carb is on and Im told it runs good. Having nothing to compare it to I will live with it for now. Most likely will be a trollhole carb within the next few years to give piece of mind.

The previous owner estimated about 140,000 miles but wasn't sure as the last few previous owners didn't know and it came with a second gauge cluster.

Most of the lights and gauges seem to work. Somewhat. The temp gauge never goes higher than it is in the picture. Is that normal? This was taken after driving about an hour doing 40mph. The oil pressure gauge seems to move around alittle bit for the first 20 minutes of driving but never goes above or below the markers so I haven't been to concerned. I'm not familiar with what's best but it's on my very long list of items to research once I get caught up with work and can have some landcruiser time.


I spent about 30 minutes at a pay pressure washer with a bottle of simple green and a pocket full of quarters trying to get as much mud and grease off the bottom as I could. I like my Toyota's looking new underneath. They have free vacs for customers which i thought about using to suck the crud and rust out of the tub but they shut off at 10 pm and I only get landcruiser time after work which unfortunately is not much lately. After washing it and degreasing it I put it in storage for a week or so until I get some time to tinker and get a tag and insurance so I can drive it without getting in trouble.


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[alabamatacomaguy]

To much to remember everything but it just occurred to me. I have been researching but pretty soon the ignition key unit is going to have to be replaced. The key will fall out during normal driving (that's why the bungee is there). I have seen a couple replacements on fj parts sites but don't want to spend that and then be told about a cheaper option I think they ran around 150 bucks.

edit just found one on sor for 131. its
144-001C
Ign Cyl Loc-
Fits 9/72-84 FJ40 NON-LOCKING

If anyone knows if that's the best option or if its something a local locksmith might be able to repair whats there let me know.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

One more question then I have to get back to work. All of my tools are 4 hours away packed in a garage for a couple of years until I can get a place big enough to bring them down.
Does anyone have recommendations on tool kits that would be good? I'm assuming METRIC but I have been out of this type of stuff for the last decade. I'm thinking something from lowes/homedepot/sears maybe a big ratchet set that they sell combo packed I'm not looking to break the bank but would spend as much as 300 on a set if its a good all around quality set with lots of pieces that will last a long time and be useful for the fj.

So to sum up this post: if you have any recommended places to get tools let me know. Also nearest harbor freight is over 1.5 hours away, but I will use them for some things like specialty tools that will only be used once or twice.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

I would do some research on which vendors are best to buy parts from. I personally use cruiser outfitters Kurt has a ton of knowledge and stocks ome replacements and high quality after market. You can get sticker shock buying some oem but it's always best in the long run. Cool cruisers has some low end junk and some decent replacements you'll know the difference by price tag. I avoid sor for anything I can find elsewhere because typically they cost more and than have crazy shipping charges. Most important enjoy it

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I would do some research on which vendors are best to buy parts from. I personally use cruiser outfitters Kurt has a ton of knowledge and stocks ome replacements and high quality after market. You can get sticker shock buying some oem but it's always best in the long run. Cool cruisers has some low end junk and some decent replacements you'll know the difference by price tag. I avoid sor for anything I can find elsewhere because typically they cost more and than have crazy shipping charges. Most important enjoy it

Yea i learned about the higher shipping costs alittle to late. But they gave me quality service and They have an amazing website that made shopping easier to find the parts I think for my 8 lb box i paid 40 in shipping and handling costs. Ill probably use them again but that shipping cost sucked.
Coolcruisers got the order I placed at midnight on Monday here this morning which is fast. I picked up a hard top bolt kit and tre kit from coolcruisers.

But now you have me worried I ordered coolcruisers tre kit as it was cheaper than the rest. hopefully it will work out and last a while. I don't have tools here yet so I found a place to quote installing the tre kit, and the top drag link kit from sor and give an alignment for 370. Which I didn't think was bad, they said they work on older model vehicles all the time, might get them to quote welding in the driver side floor pan I have.

I plan on getting opinions before ordering any more parts like the ignition above, i would like to learn from others experiences and do whats best for each job considering cost and quality and the parts intended purpose. and with all the stuff i will need i have got to stretch my dollar as far as possible.

I will try that site you linked to. It looks like he has somethings others don't like a transmission rebuild kit. My transmission feels sloppy/ loose nothing major but I would like to find something to repair/freshen up/rebuild the linkage part if i can. I was hoping it would be something small like a 12 buck bushing to make the shifts cleaner feeling. On a 35+ year old suv what should I really expect though.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I'm pricing out body panel replacements and was wondering what others have used in replacement rockers and where they got them. I am seeing a wide range of prices and things like inside and outside rockers.

I want to find a replacement to cut out the old rocker and weld the new in. Basically between the arrows. I have to do pass and driver side and I can't weld so I wanted to get everything ready to take to the welder to have them knock it out as easily as possible.

Here's what I'm trying to replace.

the area between the arrows.

Any advice or places to look for parts would help me greatly. I have looked so much my eyes are tired.


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[cruiserjunkie]

I would look to covering rust with rustbullet or por15 you'll find it at places that sell automotive paint. Sorry no advice on replacement rocker panels

 

[bikersmurf]

Regarding the key falling out, it's likely the key is worn. I had a new one cut by number and $6 later problem solved.

For rockers, EBI Cruisers, I've bought a couple things off Steve there, and he's nearish to me.

That body looks fairly decent by our standards... I'd be taking a welding course, and using the 40 as a project.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Regarding the key falling out, it's likely the key is worn. I had a new one cut by number and $6 later problem solved.

For rockers, EBI Cruisers, I've bought a couple things off Steve there, and he's nearish to me.

That body looks fairly decent by our standards... I'd be taking a welding course, and using the 40 as a project.

Thanks I needed to see something nice about the truck like that. I start to get overwhelmed but I have to remind myself I can do things over time and its been done before by others.

My ultimate goal is to have a nice size garage with a tools and a welder (i inherited my grandfathers who was a professional mechanics 3000 sqft home garage its just packed up 4 hours away until i get a house). But anyway currently the FJ lives in an storage unit in between work and a rental home with no garage. I can wrench in the one car driveway a little bit but some things like welding in the new floor pan are out of my ability currently. I am taking out everything under the seat and prepping the floor board as much as i can before next week I plan on getting a quote and want to make it look as easy as possible to fix the big hole under the drivers feet. I will check out that parts site i had not seen it yet. I am still trying to figure out if i can get by only replacing the outer rocker panel as some sites don't even list an inner. I just have alot of reading on here to do

Thanks for your reply I am going to see about getting another key cut and if that fixes it....Just started thinking, if that is something i could get done locally.haha even a replacement key is something i have to research on this truck

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I ordered a top drag link kit, a tie rod kit to try and improve steering and make sure it's up to par.

I just came across a center arm overhaul kit I hadn't seen before
Pic included. Is this something that would help and be good to install at the same time or before I get an alignment. I was trying to get all the steering stuff settled next week so I won't have to get a second alignment and make sure it's safe to drive before I tackle the body. Forgot to mention it doesn't have power steering so I might not need some of this I think.

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[cruiserjunkie]

I don't have any of that steering stuff left on my cruiser but seem to remember you could add a penny or dime and shim that out. Try a search for penny trick or info on rebuilding it before ordering

 

[bikersmurf]

The center arm rebuild kit could be helpful if it hasn't been adjusted and has worn unevenly. Watch the center arm as someone rocks the steering wheel side to side until the wheels start to move, it should rotate on its center axis not flop side to side. There is a locking bolt in the center, which is loosened first and then the larger nut is tightened. More or less it's tightened all the way down and then backed off a bit (not sure the exact amount in Factory Service Manual).

A couple of pennies can be added to the end of the relay rod to tighten up excess play in the joint at the pitman arm.

Only the Toe In can be adjusted in the alignment, and it can easily be checked with a tape measure and a couple of push pins put in the tire... Measure the distance between them when they are at the back of the tire (3 o'clock) the drive forward till the are at the front (9 o'clock). They should be about 3-4 mm closer at the front (do a search to confirm as it varies a bit with tire size). There's no need to pay to have it aligned... I paid $20 to a shop once (in 22 years).

The outer rockers do rust out long before the inners... Often they are repaired with sheet metal, unless they've got to where mine are now (rusted through where door contacts).

I'm comming up on 23 years of Restomod... And only 5-10 left to go. One day it'll be truly done.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I might have found someone great for welding the body panels to my fj.

He is wanting me to tell him what I thought it should cost first just to see and go from there.

Could anyone that's had work done or welded for money help me out.

I'm looking for the labor costs to remove old and weld in new NOT including parts.

I'm trying to figure a ball park cost for welding in a new replacement piece for:

drivers floor pan
Rockers under the doors

I don't want to low ball the guy but I don't want to pay to much. I guess I want to pay him what he deserves and maybe a extra 20-40 for being helpful as a tip haha. I was hoping to see 200-300 to weld in but I don't want to say that to him and insult him. Or find out that it should cost 100-200 for his time or 600-800?. I have no clue

Any quote I've gotten around town from shops that will even tough it is sky high.... I don't want to pay 1200 for a new floor pan to be welded in

Here's some shots of his work. I'm pretty excited about the possibility of him helping me . I still have some money in my budget to buy replacement panels and have him weld them in if he's not to high a cost

Heck if he works out well enough this could mean metal tech or similar cage in a year or two


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[brian]

ccot has it together on body panels, but i don't buy any "important" things from them. taiwan stuff looks good setting on a shelf, not so much on the truck.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I got to tinker with it alittle today. Main thing was to get it ready for getting quotes on welding new floor pan in and remove rotted stripping around top of tube where the hard top sides mount so I can go and pick up the hard top from the po

Dogs even came along to supervise

Does anyone have a tip to get these old bolts that have been broken off out without damaging the threads

Most are out but 3-4 were broken off by po. I soaked in penetrant oil to hopefully make easier.


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[shipmag]

You can heat a bolt head to cherry red throw some water on it and they screw right out but will burn the paint.

Had good luck with teal steel see my thread 76 restoration for
How i cut mine off using a harbor freight i
1/4 inch saw.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Looks like one of the previous owners did some fabbing around the transmission tunnel

Gotta dig into it more when I get time and see if it'll be able to stay or needs to go.

Also digging into the wiring alittle bit but was hoping to stay away from that for now and put it on the next phase after repairing the major body issues and the driving shape

Keep forgetting I need a drivers seatbelt. I can't tell if it's green or grey but it's got to go

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[alabamatacomaguy]

You can heat a bolt head to cherry red throw some water on it and they screw right out but will burn the paint.

Had good luck with teal steel see my thread 76 restoration for
How i cut mine off using a harbor freight i
1/4 inch saw.

I might try that. I was thinking of drill bit or something to back them out but I'm not familiar with those products


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[cruiserjunkie]

if you try and drill them than use an left hand bit so it is turning in reverse and trying to turn the bolt out as it turns. I would try heat first and hope for easy