supercharger install question (1 Viewer)

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I cut, soldered, shrink wrapped a good 3' extension into mine so that it could be routed without any stress to the wires or the splices.

Crimps or solder - meh - put enough extension on the harness to route it so that stress on the wires is no longer an issue.
 
Grench, what temps are you running with your supercharger?

My cooling system is brand new.
 
Right now? Something in the range of 10*F and covered in 6" of snow.

Otherwise I've only had it get warm enough to cut the AC once - that was on the pass up to the Johnson Tunnel fully loaded @~7000lbs. Slowing down to 45 fixed that. Trying to do 70 up that grade fully loaded at altitude with the AC on (90* out) was a bit much.

I changed out the entire cooling system & head gasket & piles of other stuff when I did the Supercharger.
 
Grench, what temps are you running with your supercharger?

My cooling system is brand new.
Howdy! I am running 210 or less in the 110+ summer heat here. That's with the a/c on and crawling in stop n go traffic. I have the original radiator with Toyota Red. See my sig line for my other cooling upgrades. John
 
Thanks John for that update! That's just the info we need. Might be good getting several data points of other guys who have blowers to know what's totally acceptable and what's pushing it.
 
don't have the temp gauge in yet, but I run the same cooling system mods as inkpot - truck hasn't run hot since we got it
 
I am still having one issue and it may be my battery..... Just this morning the battery barely had enough power to start the truck so i'll be getting a battery shortly.

In the morning or anytime the truck has not been started for a while and it's completely cool, i have to actually tap the gas when starting to get it to start, otherwise it will crank and then just cut off like it's not getting enough throttle. If i adjust the throttle cable to give it a little more throttle, that works for the start but then after the truck warms up it idles way too high.
 
I am still having one issue and it may be my battery..... Just this morning the battery barely had enough power to start the truck so i'll be getting a battery shortly.

In the morning or anytime the truck has not been started for a while and it's completely cool, i have to actually tap the gas when starting to get it to start, otherwise it will crank and then just cut off like it's not getting enough throttle. If i adjust the throttle cable to give it a little more throttle, that works for the start but then after the truck warms up it idles way too high.

Check the wiring extension you did carefully - since it is the TPS and also the IAC and the IAC is what controls the idle. Did you replace the damaged connectors that you mentioned were partially broken?

Make sure the throttle cable operates smoothly and doesn't catch on anything, especially on the hoseclamp on the bypass hose on the S/C (pics in my writeup).

Verify all vacuum lines are routed correctly.

Obviously if you battery is flaking out, that can cause issues. The ECU needs to re-learn the maps now that the s/c is installed.

Good luck on tracing down the starting issue. I've never had the vehicle misbehave the way you are describing, so something is definitely not right.

cheers,
george.
 
Check the wiring extension you did carefully - since it is the TPS and also the IAC and the IAC is what controls the idle. Did you replace the damaged connectors that you mentioned were partially broken?

Make sure the throttle cable operates smoothly and doesn't catch on anything, especially on the hoseclamp on the bypass hose on the S/C (pics in my writeup).

Verify all vacuum lines are routed correctly.

Obviously if you battery is flaking out, that can cause issues. The ECU needs to re-learn the maps now that the s/c is installed.

Good luck on tracing down the starting issue. I've never had the vehicle misbehave the way you are describing, so something is definitely not right.

cheers,
george.

Thanks George.

Just to clarify, the only thing actually broken on the plug is the little tab that locks the two caps together. No biggy considering it's been that way for about 10 years. The wires on one of the plugs had a few spots where the insulation had cracked and some of the bare wire was showing, so i used liquid tape to seal those up.

I may have fixed it.... i sure hope so.

After installing a new battery i decided to try to tune it a little. I don't have a timing light (queuing Rice... :D ) So i just had to go by ear. Basically i marked the location of the distributor to the block with a yellow paint pen before i ever removed the dizzy from day one. After i had tightened up the throttle cable to get it to start well and hold while cold, then i backed off the tightness of the cable just a hair but it was still idoling high, so then i looked at the mark on the dizzy and realized I wasn't there with the dizzy, so i turned the cap ever so slightly to get the RPMs back down a tad and to get the marks lined back up, tightened the bolt down and the idol was really close.

It was running great.

Then i decided to eat and shower for the evening and let it cool off. Went back out and it started up great without touching the gas.

I will let it sit overnight and try it again tomorrow. I'll report back....:cheers:
 
Truck has been running great! After getting back from a 5,500 mile road trip I noticed the nose cone of the supercharger had what appears to be oil.

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Truck has been running great! After getting back from a 5,500 mile road trip I noticed the nose cone of the supercharger had what appears to be oil.
There is an oil seal built into the bearing on the nose cone. There is gear oil? in that front section of the housing for the gear drive. John
 
Yeah that is why I was asking if he was using stock pulley size, small pulley can over spin the shaft and cause some blow by... Also if you ruin that seal the manf is no longer servicing the supercharger, but there are a few very good Magnuson shops that can rebuild and even blueprint the blower.
 
Yes stock pulley
 
Normal seepage.
 
OK, good to know. Thanks!
 
Another quick question for you guys.

One thing I noticed when putting the intake pipes on was that there was an extreme amount of pressure on the intake because the pipe is just slightly too long at this 90° bend.

Now that I have some time today I decide to fool around with it as I took it apart I was thinking I would just cut about a quarter inch off of each end of this 90° tubing. But as I look close each and has a little lip to help seal the rubber couplings. If I cut the ends off I will be right on these or even cut one of them off.

Do you think it will still seal properly? I know it will have a much better alignment and Relieve the stress that I'm seeing now.

Thoughts on cutting this tube?

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Another quick question for you guys.

One thing I noticed when putting the intake pipes on was that there was an extreme amount of pressure on the intake because the pipe is just slightly too long at this 90° bend.

Now that I have some time today I decide to fool around with it as I took it apart I was thinking I would just cut about a quarter inch off of each end of this 90° tubing. But as I look close each and has a little lip to help seal the rubber couplings. If I cut the ends off I will be right on these or even cut one of them off.

Do you think it will still seal properly? I know it will have a much better alignment and Relieve the stress that I'm seeing now.

Thoughts on cutting this tube?
You could take about 1/8" off of both ends of the hard tube and that would make it easier for the rubber tubing to make the adjustment. I am surprised that the kit doesn't just come with a nice high grade 90 degree soft elbow. There is some really nice stuff out there on the market. John
 
I thought so too. A nice silicon 90 degree would be nice. I looked at them and they are pretty spendy.
 

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