supercharger install question

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Wait a minute.... i thought you were a turbo fanboy :lol:
Ive only seen one person pull enough wires free to not add the extension.
btw they got a dyno on wendover when you are done piddling on that thing and wanna hear that hair dryer whistle
 
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inkpot said:
I thought the warranty was only offered by the offered if it was installed by a Toyota dealer.
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The install instructions are kind of vague. They mention dealer install and non dealer install.
 
concretejungle said:
Yes it is a mess and the latch is missing. I did use some electronics cleaner spray on the plug mating surfaces. It actually wasn't too bad, the weatherproofing did a good job keeping the funk out.
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you should order the housing and the pigtails and do it right. What you have there is not what I would consider meeting your "bullet Proof" goal.

I have a harness outside that I can pull the numbers from if you need them.
 
thatcabledude said:
Whoa.... I gotta disagree with that. A good soldered joint is a helluva lot stronger than a crimp!
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I must respectfully disagree.....


Solder will melt before any crimping ring I have ever seen.

Of course I have only been in the automotive business for 34 years so I have little experience to draw on.
 
I feel pretty good about my connections. Not sure why you think they are so bad Rick?? Each connection was crimped, heat shrinked and then the entire bundle was wrapped with the plastic case that came in the install kit. They really are pretty stout.
 
Nice work so far. I agree with landtank, get that connector replaced. New ones are cheap from Toyota.
 
concretejungle said:
I feel pretty good about my connections. Not sure why you think they are so bad Rick?? Each connection was crimped, heat shrinked and then the entire bundle was wrapped with the plastic case that came in the install kit. They really are pretty stout.
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there is an o-ring inside the housing that when installed makes it a water tight connection. For that to happen you need the latch to be in place. With out that latch not only is the connection no longer water tight but it could actually shake free.

The housing probably costs less than $2.00 and would take no more than a couple of minutes to change out making sure that connection stays in place and is water tight.

As it is now, to regain those benefits you need a new housing, all new pigtails and need to re-solder everything back together for the extension.
 
I didn't know you could get the connector only?! If i would have known that i would have. I will look into it.

I may do a short write-up on the install. George has a nice one already. One of the things that i noticed was the stupid hard heater line that runs under the distributor and across the front of the block.... that has to be removed. I ended up taking the distributor out to get it off and skipped a tooth putting it back in which in turn royally caused me a PITA time getting the truck fired up. In hind sight i should have just destroyed the damn thing or taken a dremmel and cut it in half to remove it. That's one pointer i would suggest.
 
concretejungle said:
I didn't know you could get the connector only?! If i would have known that i would have. I will look into it.

I may do a short write-up on the install. George has a nice one already. One of the things that i noticed was the stupid hard heater line that runs under the distributor and across the front of the block.... that has to be removed. I ended up taking the distributor out to get it off and skipped a tooth putting it back in which in turn royally caused me a PITA time getting the truck fired up. In hind sight i should have just destroyed the damn thing or taken a dremmel and cut it in half to remove it. That's one pointer i would suggest.
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But it was totally worth it. Sounds great. Glad you got it going.
 
I will say that the power is AMAZING! It pulls like a jet plane... just keeps pulling!

Thanks for your input Rice! Now we can get one hooked up on your rig.
 
Well, something isn't just right. I had a hard time getting it started the other day. I had to manually hold the throttle open to get it to stay running. If i let off the throttle it would cut off. Finally after it warmed up and i drove it around for about 30 minutes, it was fine. Today i went out to drive it and i could not keep it running. Every time i would let off the gas to idle, it would cut off.

Any suggestions?
 
I "think" i may know. There is a vacuum "thingy" on the top of the intake manifold that i snapped the nipple off of when i was leaning over. I superglued the hose back on, but that could be causing it.

I never touched the MAF wiring.
 
OK, fixed. That was simple. It was a very simple and stupid fix.... the throttle cable was really loose. So i tightened it up and she runs great now.

Also, i went my local Toyota dealer and picked up that "thingy"... it's a fuel vapor filter thingy.
 
concretejungle said:
OK, fixed. That was simple. It was a very simple and stupid fix.... the throttle cable was really loose. So i tightened it up and she runs great now.
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:doh:
 
lol i did think about it but decided that mud all over that wrap might turn into a bad thing. I still may reconsider. I will say that when i had my exhaust done and it's over the frame rail in the back, i used that wrap around it where it was close to the floor. So far i have been pretty impressed that my floor temps have not gone up at all.

Now that i've been driving it around for a few days i can say that i'm running about 5 degrees warmer on average than before the blower. Before, i would average 179-180 around town and 180 on the highway. Now i'm averaging 181 - 185 and a consistent 185 on the highway. I don't think that's anything worth worrying about.
 
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