Lx450 bullet cars supercharger kit

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after reading the manual a million times over I figured out how to edit tables and add rpm and load points. I messed with tps and was able to get the afr to 11 at about 3 psi. My only complaint is the transmission shifts down like the pwr button is on. I’m probably getting terrible mileage I will mess with maf next. With the extra injectors it goes pig rich at wot. Like 10 and my afr doesn’t read lower so I’ll adjust those as well. It actually is not nearly as complicated as I thought.
 
has anyone ever used the narrowband simulator feature on the aem wide band? According to chat gpt you can clamp the signal to read really rich when boost starts sending it into closed loop without weird transmission behavior. Just curious if anyone has ran it this way.
 
Here’s an update. I’ve put over 1500 miles on this setup and it has been great. The stock ecu keeps fighting the xede at part throttle. I disconnected the 02 sensor and afrs are perfect. They drop to 12afr 1-3psi then 11 afr 4-7 then at wot 10psi 10 afr. Idle afr is 13.8 so I’m going to tap the map sensor and try and make it disconnect the 02 as soon as it sees boost so idle and cruise still trims fuel.
 
Here’s an update. I’ve put over 1500 miles on this setup and it has been great. The stock ecu keeps fighting the xede at part throttle. I disconnected the 02 sensor and afrs are perfect. They drop to 12afr 1-3psi then 11 afr 4-7 then at wot 10psi 10 afr. Idle afr is 13.8 so I’m going to tap the map sensor and try and make it disconnect the 02 as soon as it sees boost so idle and cruise still trims fuel.
They make boost switches that activate at certain psi i believe. You could run a o2 wire through it to disable the o2 at a certain psi.
 
They make boost switches that activate at certain psi i believe. You could run a o2 wire through it to disable the o2 at a certain psi.
I ordered a switch hopefully it works as intended I could only find one that kicks off at 4 psi that should be fine. I’m thinking I could probably make a map for e20-e30 and get some more timing out of this. Afrs are in the 9s at wot so I have plenty of fuel
 
Does anyone have any experience running an emix? I’m wanting to know if what mix I would need to run to run stock timing. I remember when I put octane booster in I was getting no knock and I know e85 is super knock resistant
 
Well I got the Hobbs switch hooked up and it works flawlessly. I set it to around 6-7 psi and the second it activates the stock computer stops trying to pull fuel when my aux injectors spray. It also doesn’t throw a code somehow. This might be an easy work around for smaller turbos that come on earlier.
 
Well I got the Hobbs switch hooked up and it works flawlessly. I set it to around 6-7 psi and the second it activates the stock computer stops trying to pull fuel when my aux injectors spray. It also doesn’t throw a code somehow. This might be an easy work around for smaller turbos that come on earlier.
Does it kick a check engine light?
 
I think I’m gonna go ahead and get a haltech 750 and wire it in parallel with the stock ecu. Does anyone have any experience with that or a similar setup? I want to retain stock everything I just want better control of fueling and timing. The piggyback is working fine but I can tell I’m missing out on some power
 
Does anyone want this xede piggy back I upgraded to a haltech, it would work pretty good for you turbo guys wanting to run more boost, I didn’t like it for my supercharger.

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Here’s a pretty much final update, switched to elite 2500 with a boomslang harness,1050cc injectors, got rid of the 2 aux injectors and using one hole for iat sensor and the other for map sensor, deleted my charcoal canister and put my water2air pump in its place, I put a cone filter on the maf and it made like 2 psi more and will hold 11-12 psi to redline. I will be building an air box. My only issue is my tuner couldn’t get my iac valve to work so it’s ran on ignition idle control, the low end torque is insane, on 91 for now but it’s tuned for flex fuel with an afr controller and up to 15 psi.

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Here’s a pretty much final update, switched to elite 2500 with a boomslang harness,1050cc injectors, got rid of the 2 aux injectors and using one hole for iat sensor and the other for map sensor, deleted my charcoal canister and put my water2air pump in its place, I put a cone filter on the maf and it made like 2 psi more and will hold 11-12 psi to redline. I will be building an air box. My only issue is my tuner couldn’t get my iac valve to work so it’s ran on ignition idle control, the low end torque is insane, on 91 for now but it’s tuned for flex fuel with an afr controller and up to 15 psi.

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I figured you would end up on a stand alone ecu. I’ve ran a couple piggy back systems on Honda motors. Never could get them right. Haltech is what I am running currently no my s2000. That’s the best way to get the control you need. Have you got it on a dyno yet?
 
No my tuner is waiting on his second dyno wheel to ship. I’m not expecting much I know they lose a ton of power if the drivetrain
 
Hey, hows it running now? Do you have the Elite 2500 wired up in parallel?
Looking at options for my TRD supercharger. Thanks
 
Hey, hows it running now? Do you have the Elite 2500 wired up in parallel?
Looking at options for my TRD supercharger. Thanks
It’s running fantastic. I ordered a custom boomslang harness to run it parallel instead of wiring it all myself. I also had bank 2 knock sensor going crazy so I just deleted it. Haltech allows to use only 1 and it’s been amazing for knock control and wideband control. You’ll want a wideband controller and an intake air temp sensor at the manifold. all the safeties you can set up in the haltech make it very reliable
 
It’s running fantastic. I ordered a custom boomslang harness to run it parallel instead of wiring it all myself. I also had bank 2 knock sensor going crazy so I just deleted it. Haltech allows to use only 1 and it’s been amazing for knock control and wideband control. You’ll want a wideband controller and an intake air temp sensor at the manifold. all the safeties you can set up in the haltech make it very reliable

That’s good to hear. It’s hard to find info on this stuff out here, I am in Alberta Canada and even when looking online you come across Xede from Bullet and I found HD automotive also in Aus for the piggy back Haltech systems. They seem to be able to do proper programming with additional sensors, flex fuel/ octane sensors etc. and Though the cost is significantly higher. What did custom wiring harness cost?
 
That’s good to hear. It’s hard to find info on this stuff out here, I am in Alberta Canada and even when looking online you come across Xede from Bullet and I found HD automotive also in Aus for the piggy back Haltech systems. They seem to be able to do proper programming with additional sensors, flex fuel/ octane sensors etc. and Though the cost is significantly higher. What did custom wiring harness cost?
It was 1000 dollars but it was absolutely plug and play I told them to add connectors for iat sensor, and flex fuel sensor I believe it would have been 800 without those.
 
That’s good to hear. It’s hard to find info on this stuff out here, I am in Alberta Canada and even when looking online you come across Xede from Bullet and I found HD automotive also in Aus for the piggy back Haltech systems. They seem to be able to do proper programming with additional sensors, flex fuel/ octane sensors etc. and Though the cost is significantly higher. What did custom wiring harness cost?
Shameless plug for our PNP harness with an EMU Black from ECU Masters. There is also an awesome tuner in Alberta that has tuned a bunch of 1FZ's on the emu black platform.

 
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