supercharger install question

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concretejungle

concretejungle

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Almost done installing a supercharger and i'm now at the point where the plugs for the IAC and TPS are too short. Now the instructions say NOT to cut the wires to extend them but just remove them from the wiring harness and pull them out which should give them enough length. That's just not happening. I have taken them out of the harness but they are a good 10 inches too short if not a little more.

I know a local Mud member who has one installed had to cut and extend his wires. I know George has done i believe 5 installs and he cuts and extends the wires.

Will i void any warranty this thing might have by cutting those wires? Is this common? I can show some photographs if anyone is curious.
 
Everyone I know has cut and extended these, including Robbie when he did one at my place a few years back. I would use the crimps which have the solder in them and then heat-shrink seal. Not cheap, but they will last forever. While you are messing with the whole harness, you may also want to re-wrap the section near the EGR with the heat proof tape.

:cheers:

Steve
 
Cut and lengthened here, over 10 years and 100,000 miles ago.
 
Yep, no issues with cutting/lengthening - it's not like we're dealing with 1GHz signals :)

Use heatshrink with the adhesive liner to prevent ANY moisture etc getting into the joints where you solder/extend the wires.

cheers,
george.
 
concretejungle said:
Will i void any warranty this thing might have by cutting those wires? Is this common? I can show some photographs if anyone is curious.
Click to expand...

From what I gather it is common, even in cases where the harness isn't cut to extend it the harness barely reaches. I've read about this several times. I haven't installed mine yet but I'm going to this spring... I just need to wrap my head around the parts I need to order before I call C-Dan.

As for warranty, I think that the supercharger is warrantied for three years if dealer installed, or one year otherwise. If the engine doesn't run right because you've cut the harness it shouldn't void the warranty on the supercharger - I doubt that a mis-wired harness would damage it, and I'm quite sure that Toyota isn't about to provide us with additional engine warranty because we've installed the supercharger. Especially when you consider that our engines are at least a decade out of manufacturer's warranty.

It is disappointing that the kit does not include an extension for harness, unless they were worried about excessive signal degradation, but the number of times they have been cut and lengthened by installers doesn't lend that concern any credibility.
 
Warranty coverage must be different in Canada. It's one year here in the US. Parts only on over-the-counter, parts and labor when dealer-installed.


I suspect that the primary reason extension wires have not been included is because changing the kit composition would require CARB recertification. Hardly worth the effort on Toyota's part.
 
Rusty said:
It is disappointing that the kit does not include an extension for harness, unless they were worried about excessive signal degradation, but the number of times they have been cut and lengthened by installers doesn't lend that concern any credibility.
Click to expand...

I agree. With all the great parts in the kit it would certainly be so much easier and cleaner if they actually had a plug type extension.
 
CycloSteve said:
I would use the crimps which have the solder in them and then heat-shrink seal. Not cheap, but they will last forever.

:cheers:

Steve
Click to expand...

Good idea... I don't know who carries them in the US, but north of the 49th Canadian Tire sells "crimpless" connectors with a solder centre. You strip each end of the wires that you want to connect, slide them into the solder centre, and hit the connector with a heat gun, it simultaneously melts the solder connecting the two wires while the case, which is transparent so you can see the join, shrinks tight to the joint and the insulation of each end of the wire. Totally weather proof.

They cost a little more than a regular connector, but are worth the money.
 
cruiserdan said:
Warranty coverage must be different in Canada. It's one year here in the US. Parts only on over-the-counter, parts and labor when dealer-installed.
Click to expand...

I stand corrected, it is 12 months. For some reason I had 3 years in my head, I haven't opened the cardboard box that my supercharger came in for quite a while. Time to get on it... anyway...

I bought my supercharger online in the US, no doubt I would likely have been met with blank stares if I had walked up to my local Toyota dealership's parts counter and asked for one. Besides, Toyota parts are way cheaper in the US and shipping to the US side of the border is cheap, and often free.
 
I got home a little late from work today to tackle this (since my truck will not fit in the garage i have to work on it outside). I may try this evening if i can get some good lighting. I have a soldering iron since i do a have some RC toys. I'm thinking to make this as bullet proof as possible, a solder might be better then a crimp. What are your thoughts?
 
Both is best actually. The crimp gives "mechanical" strength and solder is the electrical "conduit".

Crimp-only is better over solder-only.
 
Well i rigged up some lighting and extended the wires. At first i was going to solder, then i decided a good strong butt crimp should do just fine (that sounds real awkward). Extended both plugs about 14 inches just to have some slack.

I did notice that the wires at the plug were really brittle and some of the insulation had deteriorated. I had some liquid electrical tape, so i dabbed some on to make sure everything was insulated well and waterproof.

:cheers:

IMG_2461.webp


IMG_2462.webp


IMG_2464.webp
 
thatcabledude said:
Whoa.... I gotta disagree with that. A good soldered joint is a helluva lot stronger than a crimp!
Click to expand...

Well, I have to disagree with this. On a good crimp the failure mode is often the ultimate strength of the wire, that is the wire breaks before the crimp fails. While it's possible to get a good solder joint, it's very operator dependent.

Personally, I'd choosing crimping over soldering for probably anything on the Land Cruiser.
 
TomH said:
On a good crimp the failure mode is often the ultimate strength of the wire, that is the wire breaks before the crimp fails.
Click to expand...
Same for solder

TomH said:
While it's possible to get a good solder joint, it's very operator dependent.
Click to expand...
True. Also, crimp integrity depends on the tool used to do the crimping.
 
Yes it is a mess and the latch is missing. I did use some electronics cleaner spray on the plug mating surfaces. It actually wasn't too bad, the weatherproofing did a good job keeping the funk out.
 
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