So are there any TRD Superchargers left?

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I'm about to bolt on a SC on an unknown engine with 294k on it. I've sealed up the leaks and threw in a set of rod bearings during an oil pan reseal. We'll see how it goes.

You can do this? Any real benefit to doing so for just plain old everyday reliability? Would love to see a writeup since we have an oil pan party ahead of us too.
 
I've replaced both mains and rod bearings by just dropping the oil pans. The purist will scorn the idea but I had a friend develop a real bad knock and had material in his drain oil. Dropped the pans, cleaned up the crank with some fine grit emery and slid in some new Clevite bearings. Still running today after three or so years. Now the crank was marred some but for a days work and 100.00 worth of bearings it has been good.
 
I don't know, i would say my big cruiser is pretty darn quick with the blower on it.

I will also say that it's my personal opinion there is no way you could have a functioning turbo system that is even halfway reliable for $2500. No way! Unless you were buying a used one that someone already has all the ducting, sourced the turbo, the intercooler, the exhaust manifold, coolant lines, welded on a bung for oil return lines, ect....

If you are thinking about the supercharger and can financially pull it off, do it. I would say that it's probably one of the most usable mods i have done to the cruiser to make it very usable for LONG overlanding trips. There is no way i would want to drive the cruiser from NC to CA stock... at least not with larger tires, roof racks, RTT, extra weight ect.. If the cruiser was bone stock, then sure, but with larger tires and all the gear it's a slug. Being able to set the cruise control on the highway and cruise comfortably at 80MPH for 12-13 hours straight is nice.

I will continue out on the tight wire and say if your motor has some descent maintenance, toss on the supercharger. If you are going to have to rebuild it, might as well wait until you have to. Enjoy some power at first and if you blow the HG, well you probably were going to blow it anyways. That's is completely my opinion.


Please educate me ... You wouldn't be able to cruise 80mph 12-13 hrs with a TC?


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it's not rocket science.. yes you can cruise at those speeds with a TC... what i said was you can't put together, from scratch, a reliable and functioning TC system for $2500.

Cruising speed is more about horse power regardless of how you get the ponies. A motor swap, a TC or a SC all can accomplish that goal.
 
it's not rocket science.. yes you can cruise at those speeds with a TC... what i said was you can't put together, from scratch, a reliable and functioning TC system for $2500.

This statement is true if you're using a new brand name turbocharger (Garrett, Turbonetics, Precision, etc) and you don't have the skills to measure and weld some tubes together. If you're using a treadstone manifold, doing your own fabrication and using a $500 turbo instead of a $1500 turbo, I think you can do it for $2k even.
 
This statement is true if you're using a new brand name turbocharger (Garrett, Turbonetics, Precision, etc) and you don't have the skills to measure and weld some tubes together. If you're doing your own fabrication and using a $500 turbo instead of a $1500 turbo, I think you can do it for $2k even.


DO IT.

keep-going.webp
 
Well, I'm in the process of dropping my pulley size and going for some meth... all in the name of optimizing the truck's performance out here in NV...
 
It could be done........


I am not in a position to take this on but you can get almost everything to bolt a system together with the exception of the intake (from the stock airbox MAF to the turbo inlet), the charge pipe (from the turbo outlet to the TB) and the downpipe (from the turbo to the stock exhaust) Any decent shop or exhaust shop could do that for you.

If I was building a BUDGET system to mimic the TRD SC that is; low boost, approx 60-90hp increase, no intercooler etc this is what I would do.

Remove stock manifold and y-pipe and bolt on the
Treadstone cast manifold with T4 flange and wastegate flange built in - $419
Toyota Land Cruiser 1fzfe Turbo Manifold- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

Then bolt-on a
BorgWarner S300SX 8375 Turbo S360. - $848
BorgWarner S300SX 8375 Turbo S360 - Full-Race.com

Then bolt-on a
Tial 38mm Wastegate - $239 Get the 6psi spring
Tial 38mm Wastegate- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

Have an intake tube made from the turbo to the stock air box, weld on the provided flange and bolt-on a
Tial Blow Off Valve - $259
Tial Q Blow Off Valve- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

This is kind of tough but remove the lower oil pan and bolt-on the
Treadstone turbo oil supply and drain kit - $105
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=67759&cat_key=614&prodname=Turbo+Universal+Oil+Supply+and+Drain+Kit,+Pro

Bolt-on a
Downpipe V-band flange and v-band to connect to back of turbo - $63
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=69196&cat_key=662&prodname=Treadstone+S200SX/S300SX3+V-Band+Downpipe+Flange+V42350

Add the
Silicon Coupler to attach MAF to Intake tube - ~$8
Silicon Coupler to attach Intake tube to Turbo - ~$8
Silicon Coupler to attach Turbo outlet to charge pipe ~$8
Silicon Coupler to attach charge pipe to TB - ~$8

tighten the bolts on the
4 Worm drive clamps - $10 (2) for the MAF to Turbo inlet, (2) for the turbo outlet to TB
Worm drive Clamps- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

So this is $1985 and mostly "Bolt-on" ;)

All you would have to do is bolt this on, and have someone fabricate the Intake pipe, the charge pipe and downpipe. And you are done. You can swap the Wastegate spring between 6 and 7.5psi of boost to see how everything lines up, the turbo is very undertaxed so intake temps will be fairly low. Again this is not my all out performance build, but this is all very high quality, there are no Chinese crap parts like in the CXRacing kit. This is going to put you almost identical with the TRD SC'r but it will also have some of the same issues those guys can see on really hot 100+ summer days with high intake temps, because neither setup has any kind of Intercooler but the TRD guys have been handling this with meth injection, after the fact intercoolers or higher octane fuels.


it's not rocket science.. yes you can cruise at those speeds with a TC... what i said was you can't put together, from scratch, a reliable and functioning TC system for $2500.

Cruising speed is more about horse power regardless of how you get the ponies. A motor swap, a TC or a SC all can accomplish that goal.
 
Very informative thread!
 
it's not rocket science.. yes you can cruise at those speeds with a TC... what i said was you can't put together, from scratch, a reliable and functioning TC system for $2500.

Cruising speed is more about horse power regardless of how you get the ponies. A motor swap, a TC or a SC all can accomplish that goal.

Got it, thanks for the info.. I'm still considering options. I found a brand new in its box TRD SC for about $4500 and a used one for $1500. But then I see the TC options




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Grab it. Get the used one, and you can rebuild it if you need to.

Got it, thanks for the info.. I'm still considering options. I found a brand new in its box TRD SC for about $4500 and a used one for $1500. But then I see the TC options




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Used one

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Anything that catch your attention let me know so I can ask the seller??


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Well, I'm in the process of dropping my pulley size and going for some meth... all in the name of optimizing the truck's performance out here in NV...

please let me know what it takes to take off the stock pulley? is it pressed on the housing? I for the life of me cannot find a socket to fit over the nut to remove the pulley? if you can take a pic of the socket you used it would be appreciated. I think I might need to go buy a multipoint???
 
I think that used one has been floating around for a while because there are so many little parts, hoses and spacers that it's almost impossible to know what you are missing until you dive into it.
 
please let me know what it takes to take off the stock pulley? is it pressed on the housing? I for the life of me cannot find a socket to fit over the nut to remove the pulley? if you can take a pic of the socket you used it would be appreciated. I think I might need to go buy a multipoint???

19 mm wrench. Here's the procedure to getting it off (at least for me!):
  1. get a friend to help with a 15 mm wrench on the pulley tensioner
  2. keep the belt under tension while you loosen the pulley bolt
  3. take the bolt and washer off, then tell your friend to push down on the 15 mm wrench on the tensioner
  4. slide the pulley off... if it doesn't pull off by hand, use a rubber mallet and whack it once or twice
  5. putting everything back together, I mounted the pulley first and hand-tightened the bolt/washer
  6. tell your friend to push down on the 15 mm wrench on the tensioner
  7. take the belt and carefully using a flat head screwdriver, you guide the belt on while rotating the wheel CCW- it should pop right on
 

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