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Awesome. Could you post or PM me all the part numbers to assemble and mount the 80 series clutch pedal? Only the bracket part # is visible in the photo. Thanks
Oh, sorry, I tossed the packing list. I do remember checking part numbers on partsouq and his price was basically the same. Highly recommend just getting from him.
 
Oh, sorry, I tossed the packing list. I do remember checking part numbers on partsouq and his price was basically the same. Highly recommend just getting from him.
It’s all good. Thanks.
 
And so it begins. Have started putting together a laundry list of tasks that need to happen, with the help @Dirty Koala and a couple others. Engine isn’t done yet, transmission isn’t done yet, but I can start disassembling things and work on plenty of tasks unrelated to those two elephants in the shop.

Things like:
1. hydroboost brakes (which I still need to source an appropriate Cummins PS pump for)
2. deletus ABS
3. scrapping exhaust (technically part of disassembly I guess)
4. once everything is pulled I will be opening up the t-case again to finally add spool and switch the underdrive gears to OVERdrive high range
5. kind of need to reinvestigate the front diff
6. modify Cummins alternator
7. peel apart the engine harness to strip it down to essentials
8. Rebuild steering box with 105 components that have been sitting on shelf for a while, using @Box Rocket nice write up on the process
9. Mod fuel tank for pickup
10. Replace body mounts
11. Mod steering brace on frame like @Dirty Koala did for easier access of pan removal, if needed
12. While working on 11, beef up panhard bracket and steering box area
13. Mod fuel filler neck to fit diesel nozzle
14. Measure/plan where and how to mount the t-case shifter
15. Install all the clutch components, since I can get the slave cylinder before transmission and make needed
16. Same time as 15, mod the brake pedal to fit with clutch pedal
17. Have another aluminum radiator on the way, going to modify that with Cummins sized inlet/outlet instead of necking the hoses down to Toyota sized
18. EVEN THOUGH I HATE THEM, start planning stainless snorkel/quality air filter setup
19. I’m quite sure 20 other things will present themselves during the above process

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I have never been a fan of cloth/cleanable air filters, coming from a hotrod turbo diesel background (LOTS of air flow needed), but I thought I’d give a K&N a try on this engine (especially since it came with one, figured why not). Well, NEVER AGAIN am I going to let one of those near any vehicle I own except a race vehicle that never sees debris (except it’s own parts flying off, in which case it won’t matter). The intake tube on this engine has probably 10-20k miles, and I’ve cleaned the filter twice in that time. In my mind, it should all be the same color of where it seats on the AFM, not the color of my dang valve cover. Certainly not helping this engine live any longer.
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Long day today. After finding out it was already decided that I would be getting the wife’s dual battery/solar setup finalized and running today, I was able to get busy on this project. Got the engine out successfully. Only two broken fasteners, 1 exhaust stud and one body bolt. Figure that’s not too bad. Only things I ended up tensile testing were the main power steering line hooked to pump, and the t-case shifter boot (forgot to take off the hi-lo knob). Once everything was out and I was moving the engine/trans/t-case combo out of the way, the 900 year old pallet decided it was enough. That’s an adventure for tomorrow though.

I decided to go ahead and pull the fenders off so I can replace the antenna, get a nice deep clean going, really do some digging on an air filter solution, and the core support needs off anyway so I can replace the body mounts there. More room for activities too.

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More of the bad juju from bad air filter:
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That’s the throttle body end of tube, and throttle body below:

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Can actually see built up DIRT on the inside of that thing. smdh

All the things:
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Damn dude, you're getting after it! I'm excited to see the transformation and will be following along. May this all go very well and smoothly for you.
 
I learned that lesson about K&N filters a couple decades ago when I had one on my FJ40 for a while. Good air flow but TERRIBLE filtering. Been using OEM Toyota paper filters even since.
I'm going to be going with one of those new fangled Donaldson filters designed for diesels in dirty environments, and won't be using anything else in any vehicle moving forward at this point.
 
I am another one that will be doubling down on the best filtering possible....having to rebuild a cummins after 10k miles due to bad filtration design is not something I want to make a habit of. Bring on the earth mover filtration and pre-cleaners.
 
Finished cleaning up the engine bay enough to now go hose it down. Got steering box off for 105 upgrade parts, brakes are off so I can start working on hydroboost.

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Stack ‘o parts that will hopefully never be needed again (unless getting temped in to check clearances for fitment):

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It’s so nice and uncluttered without the air filter and antenna in there. Tempted to leave new antenna off the list of stuff to put back in.

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Spent some time pondering this situation. I am not in a position to import a LHD manual rig for some of those sweet sheetmetal bits, so I have to come up with some way to hack this up as little as possible. Sheetmetal is not really my bag, so we’ll see how that goes

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I will at least clean the nearly 400k worth of gunk off the underside of this thing though.

Still have to pull exhaust (but that needs to stay on for a few days to test fit some stuff), I kind of want to drop the tank and clean it out and check for any potential rust spots/issues too. Need to remove rear heater lines but that has to wait for exhaust to come out.

Once frame is nice and clean around steering box, I can start working on beefing up the frame around it, along with the chassis side panhard mount.

Investigated clutch area and started pulling parts from that interior zone as well. Will have to reroute some wiring but shouldn’t be a big deal since I can just depin the connectors and slide through.
 
Just go rubber ducky antenna....takes up a lot less room than the yota up/down antenna.
 
Just go rubber ducky antenna....takes up a lot less room than the yota up/down antenna.
Either that or just plug it. Ain’t nobody got time for the radio anymore anyways. Got a link to a good rubber ducky version?
 
All this going on with this thread and were discussing antennas LOL. My seal just ripped off mine, someone get creative with that useless hole... I need to figure something out that does not involve replacing another powered antenna.
I found these a while ago after thinking about 3d printing something that would snap in there, then thought "hmmmmm, maybe now is the time to try injection molding for the first time", then thought "hmmmmm, I bet there is a simpler solution already out there..."
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End of the week wash today.

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Not sure I’ve ever had a personal vehicle with such a clean engine bay! Kinda odd.

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What I wish the other side looked like too. Might have to actually address the driver side. JUST SAY NO TO LEAD ACID BATTERIES.

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JUST SAY NO TO LEAD ACID BATTERIES.

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This’ll never be seen, but it’s nice to have it cleaned for the first time since the factory, I’m guessing.

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I got to check off a big step in the project yesterday, re-geared the t-case high range from underdrive to OVERdrive. Also finally added the spool.

All went well until everything was together and I looked over to see the ziploc with the oil pump shims in it. Luckily the goop wasn’t set so it was a short setback.

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Today’s task will be rebuilding the steering box with 105 parts, following @Box Rocket thread.
 

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