Lyle Kilson
Go fast, don’t die.
Nice rack
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swankstar
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- Thread starter
- #183
Notso successful day today. Got the box all torn down and cleaned up, but then since I didn’t get the @cruiseroutfit rebuild kit, I didn’t end up with the input shaft seal that doesn’t seem to be available unless you buy the whole servo end, for massive amounts of money. AND it’s the first piece to start the assembly process with. Got new everything except that one part.
I didn’t take any pics of the servo/pitman teeth mesh on the servo, I will have to do that tomorrow. They are pretty beat/chewed up, so I might have to go the route of replacing the whole thing anyway.
Thanks to @Box Rocket for his thread on the 105 shaft swap, read that before digging in, made it easy.
Still disassembling here:
I didn’t take any pics of the servo/pitman teeth mesh on the servo, I will have to do that tomorrow. They are pretty beat/chewed up, so I might have to go the route of replacing the whole thing anyway.
Thanks to @Box Rocket for his thread on the 105 shaft swap, read that before digging in, made it easy.
Still disassembling here:
swankstar
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- Thread starter
- #185
Back in front of steering gear parts. Sourced a potential new seal from local bearing supply house (McGuire), seen below. The NOK BP0077G (original seal) is not available stand alone from Toyota (at least that I can source). Measurements of NOK seal are 32mm OD, 19mm shaft size, and 6.1mm thickness. Measurements of DUROS seal are 32x19x5, so close enough I think, but need to do some investigating.
After doing some reading, it looks like I’ll be much better off replacing the servo though, worn teeth pictured below.
After doing some reading, it looks like I’ll be much better off replacing the servo though, worn teeth pictured below.
swankstar
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- Thread starter
- #187
Good progress today, got clutch pedal assembly and master in, as well as clearing up some floor space by putting the second Scheelmann seat in, and then getting the hydroboost adapted and brake pedal appropriately reshaped.
Measured up the clutch master, turned into a drawing I could print on sticky paper to stick to firewall, center punch the holes, then drill out and bolt up
Unfortunately it looks like a PO sent some zip screws through the firewall at some point, little bit of a bummer but I’ll fill with something
Pretty stoked how clean it’s going to be when all back together.
With all the clutch stuff installed, I found out I didn’t really need to adjust the brake pedal, I could just leave it like this and have “auto clutch” so it doesn’t stall whenever I hit the brakes
Kind of curious if this is where an OEM clutch safety switch or whatever you’d call it would go. Haven’t come across anything like that yet.
Measured up the clutch master, turned into a drawing I could print on sticky paper to stick to firewall, center punch the holes, then drill out and bolt up
Unfortunately it looks like a PO sent some zip screws through the firewall at some point, little bit of a bummer but I’ll fill with something
Pretty stoked how clean it’s going to be when all back together.
With all the clutch stuff installed, I found out I didn’t really need to adjust the brake pedal, I could just leave it like this and have “auto clutch” so it doesn’t stall whenever I hit the brakes
Kind of curious if this is where an OEM clutch safety switch or whatever you’d call it would go. Haven’t come across anything like that yet.
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Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Chugging right along!
swankstar
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- Thread starter
- #190
EDIT: DO NOT BEND THE PEDAL LIKE I DID HERE. A STRAIGHT PEDAL WILL CONTACT THE STEERING SHAFT.
Since my order of a new OEM brake pedal got cancelled, I had to make do by unbending the auto brake pedal. Pretty straightforward task.
Ended up going a little too far, don’t have pics of final straightness.
I ordered two clutch pedal covers from Japan4x4 so I could cover the trimmed down brake pedal. Before installing the clutch pedal, I traced the pad
cover the brake pedal with green tape to make it easy to see
Cut the trace out, centered it up, and went for it
Since my order of a new OEM brake pedal got cancelled, I had to make do by unbending the auto brake pedal. Pretty straightforward task.
Ended up going a little too far, don’t have pics of final straightness.
I ordered two clutch pedal covers from Japan4x4 so I could cover the trimmed down brake pedal. Before installing the clutch pedal, I traced the pad
cover the brake pedal with green tape to make it easy to see
Cut the trace out, centered it up, and went for it
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swankstar
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #192
Hydroboost from an Astrovan that’s been waiting on another project is getting repurposed, since the Cummins isn’t going to have a vacuum pump
Had to take a chisel to the locknut to get it off so I could measure up what is needed for an adapter plate to the Toyota bolt pattern in the firewall.
Pretty tight little unit without the master cylinder attached
Fairly significant size difference between the boosters.
Adapter plate finished up, with the little locking tab in there to keep it from rotating (somehow?? Don’t know how that would happen during use)
Ready for a test fit
Had to take a chisel to the locknut to get it off so I could measure up what is needed for an adapter plate to the Toyota bolt pattern in the firewall.
Pretty tight little unit without the master cylinder attached
Fairly significant size difference between the boosters.
Adapter plate finished up, with the little locking tab in there to keep it from rotating (somehow?? Don’t know how that would happen during use)
Ready for a test fit
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swankstar
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #193
Bolted right up without issue.
Firewall is going to be a WHOLE lot cleaner with this setup.
Once it was all snugged up, was able to investigate how much work adjusting the pushrod will need. About 1-1/4” of shortening, that’ll be tomorrow though.
Lining up the clutch and brake pedal, seems as though they are pretty flat with the skinny pedal closer to the floor. Pretty typical from my experience with other vehicles.
Firewall is going to be a WHOLE lot cleaner with this setup.
Once it was all snugged up, was able to investigate how much work adjusting the pushrod will need. About 1-1/4” of shortening, that’ll be tomorrow though.
Lining up the clutch and brake pedal, seems as though they are pretty flat with the skinny pedal closer to the floor. Pretty typical from my experience with other vehicles.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
I am going to n the hunt for a booster, I am going to need one of those adapters...please save the file.
swankstar
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- Thread starter
- #196
So the booster is smaller, but the reservoir/MC is a bit bigger. Called the parts store to check on part number of MC, they say it has a bore of 1.125” and the threads are “9/16-mumble”. Good enough info for now though. Asked about brake lines with different ends on them, answer was “brakes are not my area of specialty”. The PN for this one is the 180x number.
swankstar
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- Thread starter
- #197
Can’t really recommend filling up your tank 19 miles before you lose oil pressure. 24gals is a lot of fuel.
This was a super dirty job that I don’t want to do again for a very long time. Everything looked good, just dirty as hell.
With tank out, decided now would be prime time to delete LSPV. Noticed this bracket up front under the booster that would no longer be needed, and I needed a 90* to replace the LSPV so I decided to repurpose it a little.
This was a super dirty job that I don’t want to do again for a very long time. Everything looked good, just dirty as hell.
With tank out, decided now would be prime time to delete LSPV. Noticed this bracket up front under the booster that would no longer be needed, and I needed a 90* to replace the LSPV so I decided to repurpose it a little.
swankstar
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- Thread starter
- #199
Getting this out is a little more involved than expected. I had to undo the rear and second to rear (under the back door) body mounts, put a jack under the body (a nice big block to distribute the load a bit, right below the tailgate), then use a nice long bar to eek a little more room between the body and frame. Came right out after that.
I’m convinced Toyota painted these parts with depleted uranium or something. Cleaned up really nice.
“While it’s out” better make room for the diesel nozzle. Holesaw did a good job.
Finally have a chance to put this on. A bit early in the swap, but there is no going back now.
Can’t skip this one either.
I’m convinced Toyota painted these parts with depleted uranium or something. Cleaned up really nice.
“While it’s out” better make room for the diesel nozzle. Holesaw did a good job.
Finally have a chance to put this on. A bit early in the swap, but there is no going back now.
Can’t skip this one either.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Doin work! Making good progress here man. Keep it up! What is your estimated time to completion?
