AutoCraft Aus
Araco Master
- Joined
- May 20, 2008
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 918
- Location
- Central Victoria, desert region.
- Website
- 4xoaus.com.au
We recommend UCAs on anything over 30mm lift to get to neg camber and max caster to go with higher roll centre.
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Is there any chance the offset could cause premature wear on connected components? Mine is about 1/2" beyond the 1/2" spec'd variance. I just replaced a leaking KDSS cylinder and can't help but wonder if the out-of-alignment rear end didn't put strain on the cylinder.
Ordered up an adjustable panhard, and now considering adjustable trailing arms too!
I concur, most people don't ever notice, or the difference is slight that they don't spend the extra money on it. With guys having rusting/seizing issues with bolts and gear, I expect more people will replace these sorts of things as time progress, like with the 80's.Assuming you start with a centered axle, any lift on a track bar equipped vehicle is going to cause some offset, a gent name Pythagoras said so. The more lift you have, the higher the offset. Now, many choose not to worry about it as the offset is small. For those that do choose to change, you have many options to choose from. Most are not only adjustable but stronger material then stock. For the standard 2-3" lift, the offset isn't enough for most owners to do anything about it and downsides outside of asthetics are minimal.
Sorry I just realized that this was in the 200 section. I had the 80 series on my mind. With the IFS on the 200 you can definitely have camber settings out of adjustment. It's more difficult to get out of spec on an 80 series with the solid axle. So camber would definitely be something to look at in addition to the other things mentioned.Do you guys think I need this for my OME lift? I found this thread because my tires of been cupping on the inside. Not sure if anyone has experienced this but having it aligned at two different places has not fixed the issue.
Sorry I just realized that this was in the 200 section. I had the 80 series on my mind. With the IFS on the 200 you can definitely have camber settings out of adjustment. It's more difficult to get out of spec on an 80 series with the solid axle. So camber would definitely be something to look at in addition to the other things mentioned.
Not subconscious at all. I'd love to have a 200 and it's on the radar.Adam, are you subconsciously headed towards the 200?![]()
You may need a longer Panhard bar.So glad I found this thread. Just installed Bp-51’s all around and Icon springs in back and car was steering to the right. Alignment shows my rear axle is crooked.
View attachment 3643424
This will set it straight.So glad I found this thread. Just installed Bp-51’s all around and Icon springs in back and car was steering to the right. Alignment shows my rear axle is crooked.
View attachment 3643424
Going to order one asap. What about adjustable trailing arms?You may need a longer Panhard bar.
Those will tilt the axle up and down or left to right too. If the stock arms are crooked, the adjustable arms can fix it.Going to order one asap. What about adjustable trailing arms?
Here is a panhard correction bracket which uses the OEM panhard bar but adjusts the geometry for the lift, instead of an adjustable panhard bar itself:No surprise the rear axle is crooked, i.e. has a thrust angle, after a lift. The panhard is at a more extreme downangle and the sagitta of the arc it draws, pulls the axle to one side.
IMO, an adjustable panhard only fixes a very limited part of the problem.
The root of the problem is the panhard geometry, and the wholistic fix is a panhard correction kit/bracket.
This will raise the panhard angle and eliminate the axle offset.
It will also greatly improve and minimize the axle shifting side to side as the suspension cycles. Or the dramatic thrust angle change when the rear end lifts on hard braking. This is arguably the more important thing to fix, which an adjustable panhard does nothing for.
Will also fix lost roll resistance against the lifted roll center.
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