bloc

My understanding is dealerships in an area get their stuff from one of a few regional hubs. If that hub is out parts can come up as unavailable… at least by default. Those dealers can get stuff from other areas but it’s not their usual inventory...

The cooling jackets of the left and right bank are connected pretty far down in each, so yes draining one side gets the majority of volume out of the other too. Totally normal.

I usually work in the original diagrams so if there's an updated part I wouldn't know about it. I usually don't even see supercessions until I punch the original numbers into a supplier site (to verify before posting here) where it would then be...

Pass side is visible behind the alternator, roughly lined up with the front edge of the spring/UCA bucket/mount sticking upward from the frame. As gasman said, you'll see a bronze-ish 10mm nut in the center of a larger steel hex with a spigot...

I think it's just prices going up and some terminology getting tweaked in the parts system. Per the original toyota diagrams, your first part number is labeled "pad kit" and is a set of 4 pads only. No other hardware. The anti-rattle clips...

I appreciate it.. Just trying to pay it forward.

For a 14 LX with the ivory trim it's 58574-60110-A2 BTW I believe @TeCKis300 has posted about repairing/reinforcing his when it cracked.. not sure how bad yours is. Attaching a pic just to make sure we're talking about the same part.

Correct, full system (including coolbox if equipped) would still have pressure. And yes no dog hair (or other stuff) getting pulled into the rear evap core. Just sits there being cold. If you want to have a look at the hair loading of the...

Have you pulled the door sill trim and checked for water and/or corrosion in the large connectors there?

Timing chain cover is a really common leak source as miles accrue. I had one quarter the miles but was able to keep it in check for 130k by degreasing the engine every or every other oil change. I’d imagine yours is worse.. But maybe a way to...

The passenger side upper leg of your mounting bracket is visibly more bent than the driver's side. And they both appear to be bent more upward than stock. These are from a LC and it appears my bracket isn't spaced as far from the core support...

Then the brake disks wouldn’t be interchangeable though, I think? I’m running tundra disks with 16+ calipers.. and others have used actual tundra calipers with their OE bbk setup.

Any idea why this wouldn't work then? I know the calipers have different part numbers but assumed the casting was the same, the only difference being the port for the brake line connection. Later model Tundras even upgraded from the early M12...

So I haven’t seen it stated explicitly yet.. are these 18s?

It may be a truestart thing because mine did the same. Now running an Interstate MTP without the issue.

I’m not sure whether LXs are the same but mine has a “(fan icon) Rear” button below the nav screen. When that’s off the rear AC is disabled. Not a bad idea for a Velcroed on filter. Some of that blue synthetic pre-filter material I’ve seen in...

As usual, good info. Thanks for chiming in.

Odd, as 16+ LC/LX should have the same size front brakes as a tundra.. makes me wonder if some base models of tundras came with smaller brakes? Also (this is from memory) the TPMS issue is a difference in the angle of the flange it bolts onto...

Sucks that the rear AC doesn't have any form of filtration. So the more it gets used, the more dust/dirt/crap gets stuck in the evap core fins, where it can build up then react with the condensate and potentially start corroding. This is the...

TIL a 180A alternator producing correct charge for the battery it was designed for is weak.

Could also just use the drain tool a couple times.

I'm with @studawg on this.. headliner doesn't necessarily need to come down. Just make sure everything else can air out really well.

The single time I was forced to have a dealer change the oil on my 200 (mid-roadtrip) they did the exact same thing. I strongly suspect some 3URs need ~7.5qt and some need ~8. There were different dipstick part numbers over the years... As long...

I wouldn't change it until the crack forms again and propagates past the edge of the raised boss. You probably have another 30k out of that thing. This!

There are three parts to each radiator mount bushing. From the front, two parts. A sleeve with a flange and small hook on it 16445-31570 and a rubber bushing 16548-50370 From the rear, there is another rubber bushing (that the sleeve above...