You can totally run heims in single shear. Is it worse from a strength perspective? Yeah, but as long as the heim is designed with proper margin, it's fine.
Rear Heavy Duty Swaybar owners got links that last? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
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You can totally run heims in single shear. Is it worse from a strength perspective? Yeah, but as long as the heim is designed with proper margin, it's fine.
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Notice how nicely formed the OEM sway-bar eye is, compared the the aftermarket version.
A nice forged rounded shape vs a sheared / stamped / punched hole.
That may factor in to how you accommodate the Whiteline sway-bar.
Maybe an improved eye adapter for the end, so a good size rubber bushing will fit in the hole? (hard bolted to the sway bar hole)
Or -how about one of those SPC Xaxis sealed joints from the Lower Control Arm discussion? Never mind, way too big for this. 40mm wide & up.
Drawing is crude, but hopefully you see the intent.
Or inverse it, so the link contains the joint, and the end adapter is just simple welded double shear plate thing.
(back to back U shapes)
A nice forged rounded shape vs a sheared / stamped / punched hole.
That may factor in to how you accommodate the Whiteline sway-bar.
Maybe an improved eye adapter for the end, so a good size rubber bushing will fit in the hole? (hard bolted to the sway bar hole)
Or -
Drawing is crude, but hopefully you see the intent.
Or inverse it, so the link contains the joint, and the end adapter is just simple welded double shear plate thing.
(back to back U shapes)
Agreed, as far as heim joints themselves, but there are better ways, was my point.
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alia176
SILVER Star
I can't imagine it'd be too difficult to put the lower mount in a double shear arrangement, no? Sure, there'll be welding the U shape to the rod of choice.
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Yeah, simple, right? And strong, forces are direct, allowing joints and parts to be minimal.
- Thread starter
- #45
More puzzle pieces are being made and ordered as more product development is underway.
Thanks to all for the positive input.
Thanks to all for the positive input.
- Thread starter
- #46
Latest rear link - Double shear top & bottom, 1/2" chromo with kelvar race hiem #12000 rated 30°, adjustable when installed, 3/16" U bracket and all graded hardware.
Testing will tell but Im thinking the single shear is going to be better for wheeling and the double will be more effective on the road. Either way I have all the needed pieces to play with.
Good thing they are adjustable because my swaybar is no longer equal. When you measure from the ground up now there is a 1"+ difference. So going forward will my swaybar twist more, twist back, or continue to be ever changing? Is this common for anyone else?
Testing will tell but Im thinking the single shear is going to be better for wheeling and the double will be more effective on the road. Either way I have all the needed pieces to play with.
Good thing they are adjustable because my swaybar is no longer equal. When you measure from the ground up now there is a 1"+ difference. So going forward will my swaybar twist more, twist back, or continue to be ever changing? Is this common for anyone else?
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Ready to go to market with these yet? I'm ready for a set!
- Thread starter
- #48
Im happy you are supportive and glad you are ready but I want to be comfortable without dealing with a bad performing part.
Thoughts on the latest?
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Looks good Phil.
As long as it doesn't bind metal to metal, should last.
Highest stress point looks to be the stud going through the sway bar end U-bracket, twisting back and forth.
Sway bar getting twisted - seems that you are up against the limitations of material and geometry.
The sway bar is going past elastic deformation, into plastic deformation, from which it cannot return unscathed.
No good flex deed goes unpunished?
As long as it doesn't bind metal to metal, should last.
Highest stress point looks to be the stud going through the sway bar end U-bracket, twisting back and forth.
Sway bar getting twisted - seems that you are up against the limitations of material and geometry.
The sway bar is going past elastic deformation, into plastic deformation, from which it cannot return unscathed.
No good flex deed goes unpunished?
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
From the images I like the current design and personally I think double shear on both ends was the right move. Time and testing will tell I suppose. I would think that the range of motion of the ends would be pretty close to what is allowed with the factory ones, particularly the style I have that is the shorter ball joint style upper joint. The u bracket on the bottom won't be any better or worse than the factory design in terms of motion but looks to be much stronger.
I agree with @Bambusiero that the high stress point looks to be where the threaded rod meets the u bracket.
- Thread starter
- #53
Apples and oranges, Landtanks links do not address the weakness the guys with the HD swaybars are having. Also as you point out they are not adjustable.
Can you explain the weakness? It seems plenty stout.
- Thread starter
- #55
Any rear swaybar link with rubber bushings does not hold up for guys with HD swaybars that wheel.
Why does Mr. T put rubber bushings on all the links on the 80 then? Plenty of people wheel the 80s. Yes there is a little play and they need to be replaced once a while but I’m not sure about weak. In contrast I see nylon bushings and joints wear out quickly and creak like mad.
- Thread starter
- #57
I understand your questions and concerns but if you take the time to read the thread from the beginning your questions have been answered.
I understand your questions and concerns but if you take the time to read the thread from the beginning your questions have been answered.
Besides the adjustable length I see a solution to a “problem” that introduces a whole bunch of other problems. Rubber bushing is simple, effective, long lasting, quiet and maintenance free. If the rubber bushing is weak then solve the problem and get a bigger rubber bushing. If the bracket is weak then make a bigger bracket. Are joints better in the short term? Maybe. Not my preferred method but that just my personal opinion. I see a lot of rigs with joints that are nothing but trouble.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Mr. T. put rubber bushings in the factory swaybars and links. We're talking about HD swaybars that change the forces on those bushings beyond what they were designed for. Do you have a HD swaybar? The bushings are only part of the problem for me. I've broken the links so I'm looking for something stronger.
Yes I have HD swaybar front and rear.
Yes factory rubber bushings are a little small but I upgraded to landtank swaybar links, bushing and bracket(rear only for now). I agree that the stock bushing and bracket are a little small and LT upgrades address those problems with larger everything without introduce additional/different problems. LT also has front swaybar bracket that’s very beefy.
I do like the adjustable length links though.
Rear brackets:
Front brackets:
Heavy Duty Extended Length Front Sway Bar Tabs
Heavy Duty Extended Length Front Sway Bar Tabs (SBT-1)
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