Rear Heavy Duty Swaybar owners got links that last? (1 Viewer)

[LandCruiserPhil]

With the addition of a White Line heavy duty rear sway bar I cant get links to last. Im tearing up the rubber at the mounts, bushing hardware, and bending the bracket. Anyone else seeing this problem?

I wanted something more rigid(lees play) with flex providing more sensitivity from the swaybar when needed but still off-road worthy.

My first attempt looked promising with excellent articulation and it was simple bolt on.

Looks dont aways perform the best. One trip and they were toast.

On to another design using 3/8" heims capable of 23°. Removing the drop down bracket the links are ~8" long and easily sized to meet any lift.

The pictured upper bracket was quick and easy and I wanted more support. I have since redesigned the upper bracket to support the heim on both sides along with all important weight saving racing holes. Still, see the need for a little more tweaking before it hits the cutting table.

Thoughts?

 

[suttonkb]

nice i might have to do this

 

[LXDOC]

A yoke for attachment at bar would be nice. I’m concerned about the angle at bar attachment and lever effect on that fastener.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

A yoke for attachment at bar would be nice. I’m concerned about the angle at bar attachment and lever effect on that fastener.

Yes but that is part of the problem, a yoke does not pivot. There are bushings on the swaybar ends. The set up is not uncommon as White Line sells the same type of set up along with several other manufacturers.

 

[smritte]

I made a set like this for my TJ. I used some DOM I had laying around. They lasted several years and when I sold it, they were still in great shape. I tried several aftermarket designs and trashed them all. Being able to thread them up and down a bit helped reinstalling if the ground wasn't perfectly level.
This has been on my Cruiser to-do list.

 

[RFB]

Im using landtanks currently with my whiteline swaybar, and I have snapped them and trail repaired, So Id be interested in a solution, something that wont rust would be a plus.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Im using landtanks currently with my whiteline swaybar, and I have snapped them and trail repaired, So Id be interested in a solution, something that wont rust would be a plus.

Yep these HD swaybars are hard on links. For rust I'm into zinc coating these days and the heims are aluminum bodys

 

[RFB]

let me know when avail. Im in.

 

[Rwhat]

I’m wondering if being in single shear is the main issue?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

What length links are needed?
I sized mine at ~8" keeping the bottom of the swaybar at the same height as the LCA keeping the Swaybar up to avoid contact. The top mounting point is ~1" below the frame.
What are others needs?

My final design looks like -
• Upper bracket will have support on both sides but allowing the 23° of available movement.
• Heims are both 3/8 RH thread with jam nuts to add 1.5" of adjustability
• Nylon locking nuts
• DOM tubing tapped for Heims
• Will work with stock and aftermarket Swaybars
• All raw metal parts to be yellow zinc coated for durability
• Uses factory mounting points

I do plan to get more trail miles of testing before these are available to others.

 

[RFB]

What length links are needed?
I sized mine at ~8" keeping the bottom of the swaybar at the same height as the LCA keeping the Swaybar up to avoid contact. The top mounting point is ~1" below the frame.
What are others needs?

My final design looks like -
• Upper bracket will have support on both sides but allowing the 23° of available movement.
• Heims are both 3/8 RH thread with jam nuts to add 1.5" of adjustability
• Nylon locking nuts
• DOM tubing tapped for Heims
• Will work with stock and aftermarket Swaybars
• All raw metal parts to be yellow zinc coated for durability
• Uses factory mounting points

I do plan to get more trail miles of testing before these are available to others.

View attachment 1964854

Ill get out the tape for the higher lifted folk.

 

[richardlillard1]

What length links are needed?
I sized mine at ~8" keeping the bottom of the swaybar at the same height as the LCA keeping the Swaybar up to avoid contact. The top mounting point is ~1" below the frame.
What are others needs?

My final design looks like -
• Upper bracket will have support on both sides but allowing the 23° of available movement.
• Heims are both 3/8 RH thread with jam nuts to add 1.5" of adjustability
• Nylon locking nuts
• DOM tubing tapped for Heims
• Will work with stock and aftermarket Swaybars
• All raw metal parts to be yellow zinc coated for durability
• Uses factory mounting points

I do plan to get more trail miles of testing before these are available to others.

View attachment 1964854

I would put opposing threads on the heims. Likely never to have an issue if the jam nuts are tight, but it will make adjustability easier (loosen the jams, rotate the link, tighten the jams when done) and if they’re ever run loose it won’t destroy the thread on the heims. Especially if using aluminum bodies on the heims.

Given the price of a quality heim, I would also consider something in steel, probably from FK because theirs are the best quality I’ve seen. I use them on the 3 link and they work quite well.

 

[Enders]

I’ve long had the need to add a HD sway bar back there, and would love a “one and done” solution to do it right and keep the rig tight and reliable.

 

[Box Rocket]

I need a solution for mine. Like the Whiteline swaybars, my HD Blackhawk swaybar is hard on the stock links and I broke one on my last trip. On my '95 I have the earlier style frame brackets (strap bolted to side of the frame rather than bracket on the bottom of frame). Do you think this will work with that setup? It seems like it would since it's a horizontal attach point with the top heim.

Do you have an eta on availability? Need anyone to do more testing? Happy to help with that.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I need a solution for mine. Like the Whiteline swaybars, my HD Blackhawk swaybar is hard on the stock links and I broke one on my last trip. On my '95 I have the earlier style frame brackets (strap bolted to side of the frame rather than bracket on the bottom of frame). Do you think this will work with that setup? It seems like it would since it's a horizontal attach point with the top heim.

Do you have an eta on availability? Need anyone to do more testing? Happy to help with that.

Doubled the size of the heim now Chromoly with kevlar races netting 30° of articulation looks real beefy to match the bar. Verify but from my limited research, you have holes in place without captured nuts but a perfect candidate for a nutzert. FYI - My 91 HDJ80 has captured nuts in place, go figure. Finalizing the double shear upper bracket. Everything zinc coated with about 2" of adjustability. Plan to start off with 5 sets to get some strong testing miles from wheelers and yes I will reach out.

For help I would like you and others to measure from the bottom of the frame straight down to the bottom of the lower control arm. This is needed to produce a product that will cover most set ups.

 

[80t0ylc]

Just some thoughts....why not just disco the swaybar(s) for extreme articulation events? Even disco-ing one end should work, as long as movement of swaybar end doesn't travel into cables, lines or other obstructions. It seems to me, the on road benefits of swaybars turn into resistance of needed articulation off road. Especially HD swaybars that offer better sway performance are actually harder on the links and extensions added for supension lifts.

 

[operatorTRP]

Just some thoughts....why not just disco the swaybar(s) for extreme articulation events? Even disco-ing one end should work, as long as movement of swaybar end doesn't travel into cables, lines or other obstructions. It seems to me, the on road benefits of swaybars turn into resistance of needed articulation off road. Especially HD swaybars that offer better sway performance are actually harder on the links and extensions added for supension lifts.

There is a dude on here that sells some pretty slick Disconnect kits,,,

 

[80t0ylc]

There is a dude on here that sells some pretty slick Disconnect kits,,,

I remember seeing a disco kit thread or a post in a swaybar thread years ago. But, don't know what happened to it. After some more thought on the subject, I had an idea that it would be easy, with the proper tools and manufacturing facility to make an after market disco-able product. You don't focus on the ends, but concentrate on the middle. Splined ends with a removable coupler would work. Or spruce it up with a solenoid controlled clutch and warning light in the dash when dis-engaged. That might even get DOT approval....

 

[Box Rocket]

Doubled the size of the heim now Chromoly with kevlar races netting 30° of articulation looks real beefy to match the bar. Verify but from my limited research, you have holes in place without captured nuts but a perfect candidate for a nutzert. FYI - My 91 HDJ80 has captured nuts in place, go figure. Finalizing the double shear upper bracket. Everything zinc coated with about 2" of adjustability. Plan to start off with 5 sets to get some strong testing miles from wheelers and yes I will reach out.

For help I would like you and others to measure from the bottom of the frame straight down to the bottom of the lower control arm. This is needed to produce a product that will cover most set ups.

I'll check and see if I have frame holes (or threaded ones) when I get home, as well as get you a measurement from the frame to control arm.

It looks like from this pic (all I could find at the moment) that the frame holes are there on the bottom of the frame. Is there a reason that this extended frame bracket would not work for the upper mount? Obviously the link wouldn't need to be nearly as long as how you have it currently. Or.....the frame bracket could be cut shorter with a new hole drilled. Also it's single shear which wouldn't be as good a double shear like you're planning.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I'll check and see if I have frame holes (or threaded ones) when I get home, as well as get you a measurement from the frame to control arm.

It looks like from this pic (all I could find at the moment) that the frame holes are there on the bottom of the frame. Is there a reason that this extended frame bracket would not work for the upper mount? Obviously the link wouldn't need to be nearly as long as how you have it currently. Or.....the frame bracket could be cut shorter with a new hole drilled. Also it's single shear which wouldn't be as good a double shear like you're planning.

View attachment 1984627

The longer the links the better for less angle throughout the travel.
From the picture looks like you would get more swaybar benefit from longer links.
Any measurements to share?