Rear Heavy Duty Swaybar owners got links that last? (1 Viewer)

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Yes I have HD swaybar front and rear.

Yes factory rubber bushings are a little small but I upgraded to landtank swaybar links, bushing and bracket(rear only for now). I agree that the stock bushing and bracket are a little small and LT upgrades address those problems with larger everything without introduce additional/different problems. LT also has front swaybar bracket that’s very beefy.

I do like the adjustable length links though.

Rear brackets:

Front brackets:
Nothing wrong with the LT ones that I'm aware of, but I haven't used them. I like the adjustable feature to what Phil is doing too.
 
To get this thread back on track post up if you are interested in the below. To be clear Im moving forward just trying to determine do I make 10 sets or 100.

Upper bracket - One piece CNC cut, bent, zink coated, and graded hardware. Similar shape to the picture below


2000714


Links - 1/2" Chromoly, 30°, kevlar lined hiems - Steel zink coated threaded links - 3/16" U bracket with spud welded 1/2"-20 stud graded hardware and zinc coated. Similar to the picture below.


2000716



100% bolt-on with everything included, ~2" of adjustment, and stronger than anything currently available

Price point shipped $165


Interest -
 
Nothing wrong with the LT ones that I'm aware of, but I haven't used them. I like the adjustable feature to what Phil is doing too.

Yes, adjustable feature is intriguing. I’m just not a fan of the joint.
 
From the images I like the current design and personally I think double shear on both ends was the right move. Time and testing will tell I suppose. I would think that the range of motion of the ends would be pretty close to what is allowed with the factory ones, particularly the style I have that is the shorter ball joint style upper joint. The u bracket on the bottom won't be any better or worse than the factory design in terms of motion but looks to be much stronger.

I agree with @Bambusiero that the high stress point looks to be where the threaded rod meets the u bracket.

The U bracket was drilled for a tight fit of the graded 1/2" bolt and spud welded, very strong.
 
FWIW the Chromoly hiem is rated at 12000# like it or not it way stronger than any rubber.

Joints are obviously stronger than rubber but as I stated before rubber bushings have it’s own benefits and if right sized then it is stronger enough. HD sway bars are 50% stronger(something like that) so the bushing only need to be 50% stronger not 500% stronger and still retaining the benefits of rubber bushing.
 
Joints are obviously stronger than rubber but as I stated before rubber bushings have it’s own benefits and if right sized then it is stronger enough. HD sway bars are 50% stronger(something like that) so the bushing only need to be 50% stronger not 500% stronger and still retaining the benefits of rubber bushing.
Ok, so you don't want them.
 
To get this thread back on track post up if you are interested in the below. To be clear Im moving forward just trying to determine do I make 10 sets or 100.

Upper bracket - One piece CNC cut, bent, zink coated, and graded hardware. Similar shape to the picture below


View attachment 2000714

Links - 1/2" Chromoly, 30°, kevlar lined hiems - Steel zink coated threaded links - 3/16" U bracket with spud welded 1/2"-20 stud graded hardware and zinc coated. Similar to the picture below.


View attachment 2000716


100% bolt-on with everything included, ~2" of adjustment, and stronger than anything currently available

Price point shipped $165


Interest -
In for a set.
 
A couple of prototype sets are being built for guy that wheel to also test. From my testing its looking good for this being the final design pending feedback from the boys. We are also working on an option for adapting our upper mounts to the earlier design.

Pictured not 100% rear flex but enough to show how the links handle it. Link eye to eye adjustable is 8" - 9.5" The weak link appears to be the two factory M8 bolts that secure the upper bracket.

IMG_3721.JPG
IMG_3723.JPG
IMG_3727.JPG
 
Joints are obviously stronger than rubber but as I stated before rubber bushings have it’s own benefits and if right sized then it is stronger enough. HD sway bars are 50% stronger(something like that) so the bushing only need to be 50% stronger not 500% stronger and still retaining the benefits of rubber bushing.
hERES A FUN FACT MY REAR WHITELINE SWAYBAR HAS UTTERLY SNAPPED NOT ONE BUT 2 SETS OF LANDTANK/WITSEND hd SWAYBAR LINKS. SO iM GOING NON RUBBER TO SEE IF IT HELPS HURTS OR MAKES NO DIFFERENCE BECAUSE THAT GENTLEMEN IS MY JOB BUY SHIITE DRIVE FAR WHEEL HARD AND SEE WHAT LASTS. yw
 
A couple of prototype sets are being built for guy that wheel to also test. From my testing its looking good for this being the final design pending feedback from the boys. We are also working on an option for adapting our upper mounts to the earlier design.

Pictured not 100% rear flex but enough to show how the links handle it. Link eye to eye adjustable is 8" - 9.5" The weak link appears to be the two factory M8 bolts that secure the upper bracket.

View attachment 2028173View attachment 2028174View attachment 2028176
I love your truck its all I really wanted and then............................... anywho saw campteqs rig parked in colorado whilst I was rolling out of round mountain kiler cliffs hummingbirds and camp spots didnt want to wake em.
 
hERES A FUN FACT MY REAR WHITELINE SWAYBAR HAS UTTERLY SNAPPED NOT ONE BUT 2 SETS OF LANDTANK/WITSEND hd SWAYBAR LINKS. SO iM GOING NON RUBBER TO SEE IF IT HELPS HURTS OR MAKES NO DIFFERENCE BECAUSE THAT GENTLEMEN IS MY JOB BUY SHIITE DRIVE FAR WHEEL HARD AND SEE WHAT LASTS. yw
Why do you type like this
 
without a picture I'm going to assume that the link broke at the threaded section of the bolt.

my design has a 3/8-16 shouldered bolt running up through the link and the threaded section holds the bushings in place.

In one of the pictures above you can see that on suspension compression the link can become the lowest hanging fruit and in harms way.

For those who have installed my links and boxed frame bracket the threaded section of that 3/8 bolt becones the fuse in the system and will yield under extreme duress. I've personally bent them but haven't shearded any off yet.

To repair the link you would simply replace the bolt which is not to hard to find, the nylon lock nut which can be found almost anywhere and buy a HD GM link kit if you need the bushings and washers which is stocked at most any chain auto parts store.

cost for both links should be undrr $20.00

Rich never contacted me about his failures so if the failure was something more I'd like to hear about it.
 
The bolt with the rubber bushing end is what we are addressing and not calling out any individual product just the weak link in the set up that has developed with the recent use of heavy duty rear sway bar.

Our new design addresses it with a 1/2" Chromoly hiem joint double shear mounted to correct the issue myself and others have had. The other end uses a 1/4" thick U bracket with a 1/2-20 rated thread. We are offering an adjustable set up to optimize the rear swaybar set up with a variety of lifts not needing any repair no matter how hard you wheel.
 
Yeah... I think I’m in for a set of Phil’s links... IF I can ever find a HD rear sway bar....
 

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