Builds Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more (2 Viewers)

[Roonie]

I am a convert to the dobinsons shocks. Truly a night and day difference over the Old Man Emu shocks I had before. The suspensions now feels new and completely different. Before every bump I hit it the entire car shook. Now its like I seek out the bumps and they don't even register. One of the better additions I have done for ride quality for relatively cheap.

 

[dnp]

I am a convert to the dobinsons shocks. Truly a night and day difference over the Old Man Emu shocks I had before. The suspensions now feels new and completely different. Before every bump I hit it the entire car shook. Now its like I seek out the bumps and they don't even register. One of the better additions I have done for ride quality for relatively cheap.

SO true! OMEs are actually solid steel rods, hidden by what looks like a shock body!

 

[wngrog]

Neapco driveshaft?

Tom Woods 1310 with about 3000 miles on it. I can’t tell what happened actually.

I’m just amazed when it went nose first into I40 it did not shove my brand new Harrop out the back

 

[dnp]

Tom Woods 1310 with about 3000 miles on it. I can’t tell what happened actually.

I’m just amazed when it went nose first into I40 it did not shove my brand new Harrop out the back

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Wow! Not only does that look ugly, like you said, it could have BEEN ugly!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Tw is very good to talk with for damage assessment if you're interested in that. I talked with them about an odd failure I had and they were very helpful.

If the tube got smacked though, I bet it also warped/bent the ujoint cross. That would then cause the needle bearings to wear out real fast, and at high speed, blow up. Melting and/or snapping an ear off the cross is pretty uncommon, but not unheard of.

1310 is pretty small, smaller than fj60 u-joints. Why did you use those?

 

[wngrog]

Tw is very good to talk with for damage assessment if you're interested in that. I talked with them about an odd failure I had and they were very helpful.

If the tube got smacked though, I bet it also warped/bent bent the ujoint cross. That would then cause the needle bearings to wear out real fast, and at high speed, blow up. Melting and/or snapping an ear off the cross is pretty uncommon, but not unheard of.

1310 is pretty small, smaller than fj60 u-joints. Why did you use those?

The 1310 is their standard joint. I’ve used them for years on non-rock whomper trucks. It should be fine for my uses. Had to have gotten damaged like you say. It was smooth smooth before the trip.

I think I remember the hit. There was an underwater rock when the truck transitioned up in this video that started smacking s***

 

[Roonie]

SO true! OMEs are actually solid steel rods, hidden by what looks like a shock body!

exactly I didn't know until I put on the new Dobinsons. What a world of difference.

 

[wngrog]

I sent some CSI pics to Tom Woods. The guy there says it looks like a bad ujoint caused this. After we leafed through about 20 driveshaft orders I made he said he wanted to warranty it for a thanks for all the business. I certainly did not put any blame on him but he insisted. That’s solid.

I got Ole Blue all clean and pretty and tucked away until the new shaft arrives.

On to the next project…..

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Tw gave me a similar experience with a bad joint. Love that company.

 

[Mace]

I know you and TW have a great relationship, but I wouldn't ever use anything but a stock Toyota joint. Will TW build you a shaft with a Japanese Joint in it?

 

[wngrog]

I know you and TW have a great relationship, but I wouldn't ever use anything but a stock Toyota joint. Will TW build you a shaft with a Japanese Joint in it?

Dunno. Never asked. I’m sure they will build anything if asked.

They have thousands and thousands of these out there. In most cases they are just fine.

I hardly get off gravel roads and maybe put 3000 miles a year in my Cruisers. Same with my customers.

If I was loading up and hitting the rubicon 4x a year I might worry more about driveline strength.

 

[PAToyota]

Not that Toyota joints aren't good, but you'd put them that much further over Dana Spicer?

 

[wngrog]

Not that Toyota joints aren't good, but you'd put them that much further over Dana Spicer?

Back in my rock whomping days it was concluded a Land Cruiser joint was comparable to a 1330 which is one size larger than these 1310.

The real advantage of the Toyota (OEM) is how well the seal. They can survive much more neglect than a greasable Spicer

 

[Anthony Miller]

I40 pole vault would have made for a cool story but I'm glad you didn't get to try it.

 

[Mace]

Not that Toyota joints aren't good, but you'd put them that much further over Dana Spicer?

When Bobby Long was snapping Birfields he also did some testing on the U joints. 1310 and LC joints are almost exactly the same size, but the metallurgy is far superior over the Spicer stuff. I have a vague memory of the Toy stuff breaking at about 3700 ft lbs. Grogan is absolutely correct that the 1310 joint is suitable in most applications. There are a TON of them in 1/2 ton trucks, jeeps, etc, etc etc... I just really love the bulletproof aspect of the toy joints. I've broken both rear shafts at the same time in my 60 (on the Rubicon) and the toy joints are still in there. My 79 FJ40 on 40" reds with a D60 front uses toy joints on almost all of the driveshafts (with a 1350 on the rear axle end). I've never had an issue with the Toy joints.. I have broken the 1350 spicer joint tho (not the joints fault in both cases). Just a preference really.

 

[PAToyota]

The real advantage of the Toyota (OEM) is how well the seal. They can survive much more neglect than a greasable Spicer

When Bobby Long was snapping Birfields he also did some testing on the U joints. 1310 and LC joints are almost exactly the same size, but the metallurgy is far superior over the Spicer stuff.

Hmmm... Didn't know that. I'll definitely keep it in mind.

 

[garfieldthecat]

Got the new pump installed and added a filter to the return line so I’ll be driving thing thing pretty quickly after the steering box lands

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Hi Nolan, did you have to use Toyota SST 09631–22020 or another type of flare nut torque adapter (images below) to get the FSM specification of 29-36 ft/lbs on the high pressure hose? I'm going to swap in a new PS high pressure line but don't have a flare nut torque adapter. Can the line nut be tightened sufficiently with a regular line wrench? Thanks for the guidance.

 

[garfieldthecat]

Hi Nolan, did you have to use Toyota SST 09631–22020 or another type of flare nut torque adapter (images below) to get the FSM specification of 29-36 ft/lbs on the high pressure hose? I'm going to swap in a new PS high pressure line but don't have a flare nut torque adapter. Can the line nut be tightened sufficiently with a regular line wrench? Thanks for the guidance.

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Also, I was thinking of adding a PS fluid cooler like this on the return line. Is that overkill? Trying to keep the truck alive as long as possible

 

[wngrog]

I just gave mine a good Ugga Bugga. 29-36 is not much for an open wrench

You can’t have too much cooling capacity. Go for it.

 

[garfieldthecat]

Also, I was thinking of adding a PS fluid cooler like this on the return line. Is that overkill?



View attachment 3249931

I just gave mine a good Ugga Bugga. 29-36 is not much for an open wrench

You can’t have too much cooling capacity. Go for it.

Thank you!