exactly I didn't know until I put on the new Dobinsons. What a world of difference.SO true! OMEs are actually solid steel rods, hidden by what looks like a shock body!
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exactly I didn't know until I put on the new Dobinsons. What a world of difference.SO true! OMEs are actually solid steel rods, hidden by what looks like a shock body!
I know you and TW have a great relationship, but I wouldn't ever use anything but a stock Toyota joint. Will TW build you a shaft with a Japanese Joint in it?
Not that Toyota joints aren't good, but you'd put them that much further over Dana Spicer?
When Bobby Long was snapping Birfields he also did some testing on the U joints. 1310 and LC joints are almost exactly the same size, but the metallurgy is far superior over the Spicer stuff. I have a vague memory of the Toy stuff breaking at about 3700 ft lbs. Grogan is absolutely correct that the 1310 joint is suitable in most applications. There are a TON of them in 1/2 ton trucks, jeeps, etc, etc etc... I just really love the bulletproof aspect of the toy joints. I've broken both rear shafts at the same time in my 60 (on the Rubicon) and the toy joints are still in there. My 79 FJ40 on 40" reds with a D60 front uses toy joints on almost all of the driveshafts (with a 1350 on the rear axle end). I've never had an issue with the Toy joints.. I have broken the 1350 spicer joint tho (not the joints fault in both cases). Just a preference really.Not that Toyota joints aren't good, but you'd put them that much further over Dana Spicer?
The real advantage of the Toyota (OEM) is how well the seal. They can survive much more neglect than a greasable Spicer
When Bobby Long was snapping Birfields he also did some testing on the U joints. 1310 and LC joints are almost exactly the same size, but the metallurgy is far superior over the Spicer stuff.
Got the new pump installed and added a filter to the return line so I’ll be driving thing thing pretty quickly after the steering box lands
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Hi Nolan, did you have to use Toyota SST 09631–22020 or another type of flare nut torque adapter (images below) to get the FSM specification of 29-36 ft/lbs on the high pressure hose? I'm going to swap in a new PS high pressure line but don't have a flare nut torque adapter. Can the line nut be tightened sufficiently with a regular line wrench? Thanks for the guidance.
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Also, I was thinking of adding a PS fluid cooler like this on the return line. Is that overkill?
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Thank you!I just gave mine a good Ugga Bugga. 29-36 is not much for an open wrench
You can’t have too much cooling capacity. Go for it.
exactly I didn't know until I put on the new Dobinsons. What a world of difference.
The shocks are worlds better yea.
The 74 is a hard one to make ride hood because it usually has LWB spring packs
Have you removed some of the overload springs?