Builds Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more (5 Viewers)

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I sent some CSI pics to Tom Woods. The guy there says it looks like a bad ujoint caused this. After we leafed through about 20 driveshaft orders I made he said he wanted to warranty it for a thanks for all the business. I certainly did not put any blame on him but he insisted. That’s solid.

I got Ole Blue all clean and pretty and tucked away until the new shaft arrives.

On to the next project…..

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Tw gave me a similar experience with a bad joint. Love that company.
 
I know you and TW have a great relationship, but I wouldn't ever use anything but a stock Toyota joint. Will TW build you a shaft with a Japanese Joint in it?
 
I know you and TW have a great relationship, but I wouldn't ever use anything but a stock Toyota joint. Will TW build you a shaft with a Japanese Joint in it?

Dunno. Never asked. I’m sure they will build anything if asked.

They have thousands and thousands of these out there. In most cases they are just fine.

I hardly get off gravel roads and maybe put 3000 miles a year in my Cruisers. Same with my customers.

If I was loading up and hitting the rubicon 4x a year I might worry more about driveline strength.
 
Not that Toyota joints aren't good, but you'd put them that much further over Dana Spicer?
 
Not that Toyota joints aren't good, but you'd put them that much further over Dana Spicer?

Back in my rock whomping days it was concluded a Land Cruiser joint was comparable to a 1330 which is one size larger than these 1310.

The real advantage of the Toyota (OEM) is how well the seal. They can survive much more neglect than a greasable Spicer
 
Not that Toyota joints aren't good, but you'd put them that much further over Dana Spicer?
When Bobby Long was snapping Birfields he also did some testing on the U joints. 1310 and LC joints are almost exactly the same size, but the metallurgy is far superior over the Spicer stuff. I have a vague memory of the Toy stuff breaking at about 3700 ft lbs. Grogan is absolutely correct that the 1310 joint is suitable in most applications. There are a TON of them in 1/2 ton trucks, jeeps, etc, etc etc... I just really love the bulletproof aspect of the toy joints. I've broken both rear shafts at the same time in my 60 (on the Rubicon) and the toy joints are still in there. My 79 FJ40 on 40" reds with a D60 front uses toy joints on almost all of the driveshafts (with a 1350 on the rear axle end). I've never had an issue with the Toy joints.. I have broken the 1350 spicer joint tho (not the joints fault in both cases). Just a preference really.
 
The real advantage of the Toyota (OEM) is how well the seal. They can survive much more neglect than a greasable Spicer

When Bobby Long was snapping Birfields he also did some testing on the U joints. 1310 and LC joints are almost exactly the same size, but the metallurgy is far superior over the Spicer stuff.

Hmmm... Didn't know that. I'll definitely keep it in mind.
 
Got the new pump installed and added a filter to the return line so I’ll be driving thing thing pretty quickly after the steering box lands

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Hi Nolan, did you have to use Toyota SST 09631–22020 or another type of flare nut torque adapter (images below) to get the FSM specification of 29-36 ft/lbs on the high pressure hose? I'm going to swap in a new PS high pressure line but don't have a flare nut torque adapter. Can the line nut be tightened sufficiently with a regular line wrench? Thanks for the guidance.

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Hi Nolan, did you have to use Toyota SST 09631–22020 or another type of flare nut torque adapter (images below) to get the FSM specification of 29-36 ft/lbs on the high pressure hose? I'm going to swap in a new PS high pressure line but don't have a flare nut torque adapter. Can the line nut be tightened sufficiently with a regular line wrench? Thanks for the guidance.

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Also, I was thinking of adding a PS fluid cooler like this on the return line. Is that overkill? Trying to keep the truck alive as long as possible :)



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exactly I didn't know until I put on the new Dobinsons. What a world of difference.

Hijack….

Are the dobinsons that much of an upgrade over say Bilstein 5100s?

I have a bj74 which weight/spring wise is very similar to the 60. Mine rides pretty good except for jarring potholes and bumps. Just wondering if anyone has used this combo before?
 
The shocks are worlds better yea.

The 74 is a hard one to make ride hood because it usually has LWB spring packs

Have you removed some of the overload springs?
 
The shocks are worlds better yea.

The 74 is a hard one to make ride hood because it usually has LWB spring packs

Have you removed some of the overload springs?

Mine actually doesn’t ride bad at all. It’s the best leaf sprung cruiser I’ve had by far. Just trying to fine tune it. It was actually better than my daughters 3rd gen lifted with a mediocre kit by a bit.

It’s the harsh potholes, tough washboard I think that can be improved. The others are fairly smooth and regular driving is pretty good.

I think a lot of it is my lift is well broke in lol. Like 20 years in Australia broke in. I could Probabaly pull the packs apart and clean/paint to help.

At 2.5 times the cost per shock, it should be a decent upgrade, not to mention it’s fully rebuildable which is a huge plus.
 
Made a road trip in Ole Blue to pick
Up an 8274 for a customer. Flat interstate and rolling hills this think purrs along at 75 effortlessly but it loves gasoline

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Try this one. Highest zinc mobil 1 street oil. Specifically calls out use in flat tappet cams.

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