Builds Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more

wngrog

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I bought this old girl in April of 2009. She had a good life for the most part. A little rusty in the rear but overall a great running truck. For 3 years I built her up and loved on her and catting her around town. I took her to Hot Springs once but mostly she was just a toy.



I decided I wanted an 80, so she got sold locally and I never saw her again.

(For Sale thread in December 2009)

For Sale - Fully Built 1984 FJ-60 For Sale-$9000 OBO

Until she turned back up. Unused. 1800 miles in 5 years. March 2015 I was able to buy her back and therefore began to bring her back to life with 222,924 on the clock........




Cool bit of trivia....this truck shipped to Colorado in 3/84 and sold 1/85.......I remember seeing them on the lot when I was 15 and driving a 84 Xtra Cab and thinking....why would anyone want one of those turds......

She is the best Cruiser Ive ever owned but the oil consumption has become an issue. I said I would replace the motor once it became an embarrassment to drive. That happened and it is time.

Today I began the takedown for a new heart transplant

Edit: July 2019 I start the swap from AFI to a Holley Sniper so this thread will have info on both systems
 
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wngrog

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230,534 miles. 4 owners. It was a great run.

The motor runs really really good but I was up to 1 quart per tank.

So, what is the plan? V8 seems like the most reasonable option these days but I think that is based on use.

I really, really like the way a 2F, manual 60 drives. Sure, its underpowered and slow but the truck is really not designed for a whole lot more.

What I want is a reliable truck that I can take to the Ozarks (7 hours away) and cat around the backroads of Mississippi.











 

wngrog

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8000 miles in 2 1/2 years isn't much, but I used this old girl quite a bit. Other than one 800 mile trip to the Ozarks this spring, this truck has been cruising MS backroads for the res of the miles.

I looked into an H55 swap. This is an 84 so the would involve a lot of modification to make it work. Also, all that I spoke to told me I would get the same highway cruise RPM as I do now with 3.70 gears and a 4 speed as they do with an H55 and 4.11's.....All that trouble for the same highway RPM .....AND I have to swap my 3.7 for 4.10 gears? No thanks. I just redid both axles last summer and I don't want to do that again.

Off road 1st gear would be nice, but this thing is at home on the gravel and rarely sees anything it can't handle in 1st low and 3.70s.

In August, I dropped a core 2F I had purchased off at the local machine shop for a rebuild. He's on a 2 month cycle so I decided to keep my truck a runner until he was finished with the rebuild.



The plan is a fresh 2F with Affordable Fuel Injection and a DUI distributor. Keep the 4 speed and 3.70s. Basically what I had with a fresh motor and a no-hassle fuel delivery system at any altitude.

On August 18th I took advantage of the AFI 20% off sale and got a full sytem ordered for $1288......



So last night I was cruising Mud and saw a new rebuilt 2F for $3000......my 2F quote was upwards of $4000 so I looked at the savings and jumped.

Thanks @Custer for the great deal.....



Since I just jumpstared my engine swap by 4-5 weeks I decided to get busy.

First, take off the bumper......

The front was a mess. I popped the ARB off and cleaned up the frame. I first treated it with Rust treatment and then hit the frame with some fresh gloss.



I backed it into the shop and cut her throat with my sawzall (lower radiator hose) and let her bleed out.

 

wngrog

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My friend @under_psi came by today to dove hunt but there were no doves, so after we decided that we were not hunting we jumped into prepping the motor for removal.




The plan is to peel back the accessories such as AC and Power Steering and slip the old 2F out. All my accessories are good. New AC...New Alternator. Non-leaking power steering and it already has the smog pump delete. All I need is a BIG box of @beno hoses, belts and clamps and I can bolt all this stuff back on the fresh motor and then muddle my way through the AFI install.



My radiator is toast. I keep being told to re core and repair this OEM.....anyone else have any strong thoughts on this? I would so rather buy a replacement new and be done.



Power steering still hooked up, just peeled back.....



My new City Racer carb is removed and shelved for a future project.....



This is the way I left her for the night. Tomorrow I will finish up unbolting the motor and driveline. Stay tuned......

 

wngrog

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Lou was talking about that today Beno......I think the tractor may be the ticket for pulling a motor but for installing it, the engine hoist is the key as we discovered on Project Patina......





When are you ready for an all-expenses-paid trip to Tilda Bogue? I think that yankee hottie needs a Mississippi baptism....
 

Onur

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Lou was talking about that today Beno......I think the tractor may be the ticket for pulling a motor but for installing it, the engine hoist is the key as we discovered on Project Patina......





When are you ready for an all-expenses-paid trip to Tilda Bogue? I think that yankee hottie needs a Mississippi baptism....

Yup. In. Get it rolling.
 

wngrog

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I spent the morning working on everything else around the farm that I neglected the last month while I worked on getting a 1974 FJ40 rehabilitated.

After lunch I got the rest of the motor separated from the chassis.



I snipped a couple of heater hoses just to make it easy, unhooked the clutch slave, battery grounds, and the driveshafts



This side needed the exhaust flange unbolted, booster vacuum unplugged, throttle, and of course the heater hose....



Nasty as F.....

I plan on using the water pump, Tstat housing and alternator off this motor. All are good. I will pop new hoses with Toyota clamps on everything. @beno has been summoned.



Im taking it all out in one piece and I am hoping I can do it without removing the tranny hump. I just need to pull the Tcase shifter and I think I can do it.
 

wngrog

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I'm going to remove my rear heater and sell it and the pristine hoses to one of you yankees that needs heat for the kiddos.



Also, years ago when I added the header, I added a fluid heat riser kit because that is what I thought I needed. It's a lot of hoses that I want to eliminate.

I am assuming I can just remove this thing and toss it all out......I can't even remember what it does.

 

maxbob002

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Ha, I just ordered a rear heater from ebay because my blower motor didn't work and I have two little ones to keep warm back there.
 

maxbob002

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75$ and the core is questionable. It's one of the few I found for sale. They're pricey.
 

wngrog

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After reading up on it I believe I'll keep the fluid heat riser. It's a very accessible hose and seems to do more good than not with the 2F and the header.

@FJ60Cam got me sorted out on the throttle cable stuff to order.

This little $8 Plastic guide lets you run a cable off the tip of a 60 pedal where the hand throttle cable goes. The hole is even in the firewall.

IMG_1367.PNG


The throttle cable is a universal Lokar setup. The cost between the 24" and 36" is $6 so I ordered the longer one and we can cut it down.

IMG_1368.PNG


I got a new clutch kit off Amazon for a whopping $150 (Aisin stuff)


My radiator is shot. Multiple cracks and repairs. I'm going to take a shot at this one. Wish me luck. I've gotten multiple opinions but my fix quote was $40 more than the new one.

IMG_1369.PNG


I'm looking to pull the motor this Sunday. It's ready. Just have to do it so I can clean the engine Bay up for the stabbing party on the 15th.....
 
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Good stuff Nolen! Love to see old cruisers being loved, cared for, and used as Mr. T intended just as much as I love seeing them built up and wheeled.

I'm getting ready for a major refresh on my 62(suspension, exhaust, transmission, etc). Do you have a build thread on this 60 up to this point? I'm curious what suspension/tire size/etc you're running, but don't want to make you repeat yourself if it's documented somewhere already.
 
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