FJ62 No Start Issue (1 Viewer)

[mrocks]

First post here. I picked up a 223k mile FJ62 a couple months ago. Drove home approx 20 miles just fine. I did some pressure washing under the hood and then a cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and cleaned throttle body. Ran great. There was a mangled ground wire going from the air meter through the harness into the cab so I replaced it. Removed computer to access this, and put computer back in. Now it's not starting. I've done some searching here. I'm troubleshooting with a paper called "Diagnostic Procedure for 1991/1992 3FE EFI related issues" which mentions it wont start if CEL isn't on while key is in "on" position. I'm not getting the CEL or charge light when I turn key on! Fusible links aren't pretty but they have continuity. Fuses inside are all good. Starter cranks it over but wont fire. I unplug air meter and it still doesn't light CEL (supposedly rules out air meter). One thing it says is check for 12v on pin 8 in the diagnostic port. I'm only getting .670 when key is on. Anyone have enough EFI diagnosing experience with these to point me in the right direction? Like what is the source of that pin 8? I thought I may have a bad connection at the air meter plug after changing out a wire...so I ordered a plug from VintageTEq, and it has been over 6 weeks since ordered (emailed but no response) so I'm not able to check that yet. Thanks for any insight in advance. Couple pics for reference.

 

[Bleu62]

Dumb question, have you disconnected the battery and tried again after reconnecting battery?

 

[Godwin]

No CEL is often a dead EFI main relay. These are NLA from Toyota but you can wire in a regular relay.

 

[Bleu62]

It sounds like that relay was good before you changed the ground wire. I'm having a strange not starting issue I'm tracking down at the moment that when I disconnect the battery and reconnect it will start right up. Frustrating as heck but it gets me going.

 

[toy_tek]

Is the ECU plug seated correctly? Looks like pin 8 comes direct from ECU. Attached part of the 89 WD.

 

[jebb]

I used to have an intermittent no-start issue, tried a whole mess of stuff, problem was permanently solved when i replaced the starter switch in the steering column, oem part #84450-60150. these are nla from toyota but are available from cityracer. Note: there's one marked "1990" thats from a different manufacturer on rockauto that won't work: it's for FZJ80.

This doesn't sound like a perfect fit for your issue, but I figured more hypothesis probably doesn't hurt at this point and I've been meaning to track down the threads about this, and I suppose this wouldn't be so hard to test without buying a hundred dollar part (short the output).

Although i will say with my intermittent issue, I could sort of shake the connections in the steering column in a certain way and get it to start.

 

[mrocks]

Thanks for the excellent discussion. I'm going to try/check a few of these things and report as I can.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Have you tried jumping the B+ and FP pins on the Check Connector (i.e. diag port?). That basically removes a bunch of variables from the ignition circuit and sends power to the fuel pump. Might be worth a shot. If it runs with those terminals jumped, I think you can isolate the problem to the AFM or the Circuit Opening Relay and associated circuits.

 

[mrocks]

No CEL is often a dead EFI main relay. These are NLA from Toyota but you can wire in a regular relay.

I could hear the EFI relay "clicking" so I opened it and jumped the output wires. Issue resolved!!! Now the B+ pin on the check connector has 12v, and the CEL comes on. More importantly, she starts right up! Excited to get it moving again.

 

[captain pabst]

I've also had an issue with ordering from VintageTeq aka @ToyotaMatt in the past and have heard of others having issues with unfulfilled orders. I hope you get what you paid for. It's disappointing a supporting vendor has repeated issues.

so I ordered a plug from VintageTEq, and it has been over 6 weeks since ordered (emailed but no response) so I'm not able to check that yet. Thanks for any insight in advance. Couple pics for reference.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

First post here. I picked up a 223k mile FJ62 a couple months ago. Drove home approx 20 miles just fine. I did some pressure washing under the hood and then a cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and cleaned throttle body. Ran great. There was a mangled ground wire going from the air meter through the harness into the cab so I replaced it. Removed computer to access this, and put computer back in. Now it's not starting. I've done some searching here. I'm troubleshooting with a paper called "Diagnostic Procedure for 1991/1992 3FE EFI related issues" which mentions it wont start if CEL isn't on while key is in "on" position. I'm not getting the CEL or charge light when I turn key on! Fusible links aren't pretty but they have continuity. Fuses inside are all good. Starter cranks it over but wont fire. I unplug air meter and it still doesn't light CEL (supposedly rules out air meter). One thing it says is check for 12v on pin 8 in the diagnostic port. I'm only getting .670 when key is on. Anyone have enough EFI diagnosing experience with these to point me in the right direction? Like what is the source of that pin 8? I thought I may have a bad connection at the air meter plug after changing out a wire...so I ordered a plug from VintageTEq, and it has been over 6 weeks since ordered (emailed but no response) so I'm not able to check that yet. Thanks for any insight in advance. Couple pics for reference.

View attachment 3476217

View attachment 3476218

I've also had an issue with ordering from VintageTeq aka @ToyotaMatt in the past and have heard of others having issues with unfulfilled orders. I hope you get what you paid for. It's disappointing a supporting vendor has repeated issues.

Hello Matt & captain paBSt


- matt's Air Flow Meter input connector repair key has been shipped and delivered now for several weeks .....
.
- Hijacking @mrocks tech thread to only serve your own agenda like you have to take a swipe at me is so very Passé


- PM me and lets mutually discuss what is on your mind today ......

thanks
matt

 

[Hammer45]

I’ve had an intermittent no start and stall. I need to trace it out as well but I got lazy and just put a jumper between the 2 thicker wires and bypass the efi main relay and it runs forever and never stalls or hesitates to start. Replace the circuit opening relay and deleted all the fusible links and checked the connector in the drivers rear quarter panel and it looks great. The main relay checks out normally too. So I just put that jumper bypass every time I drive. I have to remove it when I stop because it keeps constant voltage to the ECU and the battery will die after a few hours like that. I’ll get back on it one day. Let us know what you find. Hopefully some of the old timers with the real knowledge will chime in here for you.

 

[mrocks]

Hello Matt & captain paBSt


- matt's Air Flow Meter input connector repair key has been shipped and delivered now for several weeks .....
.
- Hijacking @mrocks tech thread to only serve your own agenda like you have to take a swipe at me is so very Passé


- PM me and lets mutually discuss what is on your mind today ......

thanks
matt



View attachment 3496226

The airflow harness plug did indeed arrive and worked great. It is a great piece. Thanks again Matt, and sorry for the hijack.

 

[mrocks]

For those who've been following this... the truck starts and runs great in the driveway but I'm having new issues now. (Can I edit thread title to reflect this?)

My issues:
If I slowly give it throttle while idling, it revs up pretty nicely. However if I try to "blip" the throttle even slightly, it stumbles and dies. It also stumbles and dies if I try to put it into drive or reverse.

The other thing happening is when it gets up to temperature, when I shut it off and try to restart it, it idles for about 10 seconds and then stumbles and dies.

A couple things I've looked into: There are two resistances to measure on the VAFM. One should be between 200-400 ohms and the other between 200-600 ohms. They're 170 and 180 respectively. This VAFM has been opened at some point but what gets me is it drove ok when I brought it home. I am also getting the following codes: 24, 28, 31, and 51. Looks like a couple of these could be VAFM related and the 51 looks like it might be TPS (the throttle blip issue maybe?). Any recommended direction on these issues? I just want to drive the darn thing.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

For those who've been following this... the truck starts and runs great in the driveway but I'm having new issues now. (Can I edit thread title to reflect this?)

My issues:
If I slowly give it throttle while idling, it revs up pretty nicely. However if I try to "blip" the throttle even slightly, it stumbles and dies. It also stumbles and dies if I try to put it into drive or reverse.

The other thing happening is when it gets up to temperature, when I shut it off and try to restart it, it idles for about 10 seconds and then stumbles and dies.

A couple things I've looked into: There are two resistances to measure on the VAFM. One should be between 200-400 ohms and the other between 200-600 ohms. They're 170 and 180 respectively. This VAFM has been opened at some point but what gets me is it drove ok when I brought it home. I am also getting the following codes: 24, 28, 31, and 51. Looks like a couple of these could be VAFM related and the 51 looks like it might be TPS (the throttle blip issue maybe?). Any recommended direction on these issues? I just want to drive the darn thing.

have you given the whole air intake system , throttle body , idle air valve next to it , a good cleaning inside and out ?

this requires all parts be removed and cleaned both sides too


the whole first gen. TCCS-ECU EFI systems were simply added on to a already Carbureted engine , not the best form of engineering , sorta backwards


that black gooey carbon can be a real bear to de-crud out !

 

[ToyotaMatt]

For those who've been following this... the truck starts and runs great in the driveway but I'm having new issues now. (Can I edit thread title to reflect this?)

My issues:
If I slowly give it throttle while idling, it revs up pretty nicely. However if I try to "blip" the throttle even slightly, it stumbles and dies. It also stumbles and dies if I try to put it into drive or reverse.

The other thing happening is when it gets up to temperature, when I shut it off and try to restart it, it idles for about 10 seconds and then stumbles and dies.

A couple things I've looked into: There are two resistances to measure on the VAFM. One should be between 200-400 ohms and the other between 200-600 ohms. They're 170 and 180 respectively. This VAFM has been opened at some point but what gets me is it drove ok when I brought it home. I am also getting the following codes: 24, 28, 31, and 51. Looks like a couple of these could be VAFM related and the 51 looks like it might be TPS (the throttle blip issue maybe?). Any recommended direction on these issues? I just want to drive the darn thing.

study this tech video , its a SOLID Example of exactly what i outline above in details 3F-E


.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

if your EFI fuel filter is looking like its been there for a Decade or more like GHOST's is here at my shop ,


that can and will cause fuel delivery issues 100% !

this is a FJ80 3FE , but tech is same in kind fyi...

 

[mrocks]

Thanks Matt. One of the first things I did was clean out the TB and air intake piping, along with a new filter. I did not do the Idle speed controller so I'll knock that out too. Fuel filter doesn't look bad, but I'll swap it out anyway. I'll update as soon as I can.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Also make sure to check the coolant temp sensor and other sensors at the thermostat housing.
They can cause issues for the EFI if they’re out of spec or have damaged connectors.

 

[mrocks]

Another update. I cleaned the idle air control valve and reinstalled it with a new gasket. Replaced fuel filter. Measured resistances on TPS and seems ok with what documentation I've found in here. It still fires up fine. Seems to run pretty good except for the high idle (1100-1200). Like before, if I "blip" the throttle, it sputters and dies, but I can slowly bring RPM up with the throttle. Sounds like maybe TPS is indeed bad? Maybe there's an air-meter problem? Codes are still unchanged: 24, 28, 31, and 51.