Builds OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77 (1 Viewer)

[Jordan345]

That'd be great. I'd also love to see how you attached the net. That was the trickiest part for me.

Milwaukee packout is available at Home Depot - you got it. Specific configurations will possibly need to be ordered but plenty of sizes are available. They are quite pricey, but having them in hand, I think they're worth it? That's subjective I guess?

Cool thanks. I was kicking around the cruiser today trying to sort out the two tiny t2 like bulbs in the dash for the heater control unit and ashtray and found a dewalt tool kit that is similar and connects to others similar to itself. I suspect same concept and will look closer at it.

As for the net, i snapped a couple pics. I really like the rock bolt idea as well but find my net works to cover approx 60 percent of the roof and any more would be a hinderance.
As suggested, i also have fly rod holders that i substitue that are made of webbing to go in place of said net when appropriate.

 

[Guyute]

Oooh I wondered if there were captive nuts back there somewhere! I'll have to do some investigating! Excellent info! Thanks! Ill check out those hangers too...

Snapped a picture... The loft net is down right now but here is the general location and hangers installed.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Woohoo! Parts arrived yesterday (without duty or gst assessed!). Today was the day. Put new housing on, plus new o-ring on water drain.

Time for a test drive.

Looooong crank on startup, which I'd expect. Then ran good, minimal smoke. Went out the alley and up the hill, where I felt some hestitation at 2k rpm. Uh oh. Maybe some residual trapped air?

Another lap around the block. Better. May as well go for it. Just out of town and onto a secondary road. Up to 100kph. All good: almost no smoke except under WOT. Again, expected.

So. It appears this particular drama is solved. Air ingress, and fuel pressure loss via the filter heater and possibly the fuel plunger. Fixed both by replacing the unit with new.

Beer time!

 

[JDM Journeys]

Snapped a picture... The loft net is down right now but here is the general location and hangers installed.

View attachment 2892497

Ooooh that's extremely helpful! Look at THAT! You are in my good books! Time to go investigate!

 

[JDM Journeys]

Well, I spoke too soon, AGAIN. Today a cold start took a few extra cranks, then smoke. A drive revealed the same old thing - hesitation above about 2k rpm, and white smoke. I only took it around the block, and then brought it home. The short hose from the filter to the hard line looked a bit suspect. Perhaps its sucking air in over night?

I replaced this one with new hose and new clamps.

I guess now I wait until tomorrow and try another cold start. This really is getting old.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Something I forgot to note - from the time I got this rig, it started first crank, maybe half a crank, and ran strong. Now when I start it cold, it tends to idle low until its warmed up, prompting a few turns on the hand throttle lock... related? Maybe...?

 

[JDM Journeys]

Just a reminder to start with the simple things first. K-I-S-S. This reminder is mostly for me, since I seem to be (stupid) the one that forgets it the most.

I'm referencing my smoky start saga, that's been plaguing me for various reasons since the summer, the latest being a leaky fuel filter housing.

Before I tried my cold start today i thought I should get back to basics. Again. Starting with voltage. This truck came with two new 24F Interstate batts (L/A). I haven't bought a lead acid for 12 years or more, so perhaps I can be forgiven for overlooking basic maintenance? There was residue around the caps, and all the cells were down a bit on electrolyte. A test across the terminals showed just over 20v total. Not a great way to get glow plugs red hot, is it? I disconnected them, added some distilled water, and am now waiting for them to settle down (each is currently showing 17 to 18v individually) so I can try to bring them back one at a time with my c-tek charger.

If not, then I'll replace with a pair of AGM's.

But if it's simply my batteries failing a load test that is giving me smoky starts and not failing ACSD's, IP rebuilds, or pump timing? Well, probably high time for me to go back and re-read my own stories?
Needle Small - Pole Big: Making a Mountain Out of a Molehill

Whether you say it in Japanese, ‘shin-shou-bou-dai’, or in English, it amounts to the same thing: You imagine the worst when it comes to a mechanical problem, especially when it comes to that JDM vehicle you just took a chance on importing.

Such is life when you are your own mechanic, or even armchair quarterback. In your mind’s eye, oil leaks morph into monsoons. Funny noises signal “For Whom the Bell Tolls”. Mystery starting problems are Orwellian in their conspiracies. We’ve all fallen into this pitfall, some of us multiple times, and yet, when the next problem crops up, we drive our significant others crazy with dour prophecies of long frustrating nights in the garage ultimately leading to financial ruin.

(Edit: voltmeter battery is also suspect. So I'll start with that one).

 

[Jordan345]

Just a reminder to start with the simple things first. K-I-S-S. This reminder is mostly for me, since I seem to be (stupid) the one that forgets it the most.

I'm referencing my smoky start saga, that's been plaguing me for various reasons since the summer, the latest being a leaky fuel filter housing.

Before I tried my cold start today i thought I should get back to basics. Again. Starting with voltage. This truck came with two new 24F Interstate batts (L/A). I haven't bought a lead acid for 12 years or more, so perhaps I can be forgiven for overlooking basic maintenance? There was residue around the caps, and all the cells were down a bit on electrolyte. A test across the terminals showed just over 20v total. Not a great way to get glow plugs red hot, is it? I disconnected them, added some distilled water, and am now waiting for them to settle down (each is currently showing 17 to 18v individually) so I can try to bring them back one at a time with my c-tek charger.

If not, then I'll replace with a pair of AGM's.

But if it's simply my batteries failing a load test that is giving me smoky starts and not failing ACSD's, IP rebuilds, or pump timing? Well, probably high time for me to go back and re-read my own stories?
Needle Small - Pole Big: Making a Mountain Out of a Molehill


(Edit: voltmeter battery is also suspect. So I'll start with that one).

Batteries can be funny things. I had seemingly new lead acids i replaced in africa as agms where nowhere to be found and it helped cranking but i didnt think they would impact after initial crank is complete and engine has fired up. I replaced them once in canada. Unfortunatly i neglected to get group 27 and have group 24 but that hasnt ever been an issue.

I cant get help to think your issue remains air leakage, but as you say so well, occams razor and simple solutions usually first.

 

[Rigster]

Just a reminder to start with the simple things first. K-I-S-S. This reminder is mostly for me, since I seem to be (stupid) the one that forgets it the most.

I'm referencing my smoky start saga, that's been plaguing me for various reasons since the summer, the latest being a leaky fuel filter housing.

Before I tried my cold start today i thought I should get back to basics. Again. Starting with voltage. This truck came with two new 24F Interstate batts (L/A). I haven't bought a lead acid for 12 years or more, so perhaps I can be forgiven for overlooking basic maintenance? There was residue around the caps, and all the cells were down a bit on electrolyte. A test across the terminals showed just over 20v total. Not a great way to get glow plugs red hot, is it? I disconnected them, added some distilled water, and am now waiting for them to settle down (each is currently showing 17 to 18v individually) so I can try to bring them back one at a time with my c-tek charger.

If not, then I'll replace with a pair of AGM's.

But if it's simply my batteries failing a load test that is giving me smoky starts and not failing ACSD's, IP rebuilds, or pump timing? Well, probably high time for me to go back and re-read my own stories?
Needle Small - Pole Big: Making a Mountain Out of a Molehill


(Edit: voltmeter battery is also suspect. So I'll start with that one).

Good on you Phil,

I know you have the voracious tenacity to hunt this one down. I can sometimes get into the habit of overthinking things, then need to force myself to go back to the simple ABC's to start again at the beginning. Test everything. Bring everything to spec, otherwise you are chasing symptoms rather than the actual problem.

Hang in there bud, you WILL be victorious!

 

[Guyute]

Just a reminder to start with the simple things first. K-I-S-S. This reminder is mostly for me, since I seem to be (stupid) the one that forgets it the most.

I'm referencing my smoky start saga, that's been plaguing me for various reasons since the summer, the latest being a leaky fuel filter housing.

Before I tried my cold start today i thought I should get back to basics. Again. Starting with voltage. This truck came with two new 24F Interstate batts (L/A). I haven't bought a lead acid for 12 years or more, so perhaps I can be forgiven for overlooking basic maintenance? There was residue around the caps, and all the cells were down a bit on electrolyte. A test across the terminals showed just over 20v total. Not a great way to get glow plugs red hot, is it? I disconnected them, added some distilled water, and am now waiting for them to settle down (each is currently showing 17 to 18v individually) so I can try to bring them back one at a time with my c-tek charger.

If not, then I'll replace with a pair of AGM's.

But if it's simply my batteries failing a load test that is giving me smoky starts and not failing ACSD's, IP rebuilds, or pump timing? Well, probably high time for me to go back and re-read my own stories?
Needle Small - Pole Big: Making a Mountain Out of a Molehill


(Edit: voltmeter battery is also suspect. So I'll start with that one).

Shin-shou-bou-dai ! Ha. Sometimes I imagine the worst for my junk even when I just read someone elses symptoms here. Remember that fuel filter/heater assembly that Coldtaco offered you that you didn't end up needing? Yeah. I bought it just in case.

Keep at it and keep us posted.

 

[JDM Journeys]

That's awesome!

My meter's 9v battery was at 4 volts. It's a wonder it worked at all. Lol. So my batt levels were likely fine. But just in case I've got them separated and giving them a C-TEK spa day, one at a time.

I think @Jordan345 is right about still being air. I'll keep at it...

 

[JDM Journeys]

Started it last night. Started fine. It needed a few turns on the hand throttle to smooth the idle. A little white smoke which cleared in about 15 seconds. But went for a little drive and had some hesitation for the first minute or two at about 2k rpm or higher, until it warmed up...

Once it started approaching operating temps, the smoke seemed to be mostly if not all gone.

Ambient temp was about 6°C.

ACSD failure maybe? Still air? Pump is knackered? Not sure at this point..

 

[Loober]

Have you tried advancing the timing?

 

[JDM Journeys]

Have you tried advancing the timing?

Bing bing!

Are you watching my shop by chance? Lol. I did just that this afternoon. ..

So I started by replacing a few more hoses. No change. Checked the timing and set it at 1.08. No change. (Temps are at about 10°C. )

Re bled at the injectors. Possibly a few bubbles? Hard to say... Very minimal. No real change. When I'd rev it, I'd get smoke and a stumble. Finally I decided to advance it from my mark, and see if there was a sweet spot. Very quickly it stopped smoking and stumbling at higher RPM. What I can't say for sure is if I fixed it... It was running while I was advancing the timing so I don't know if it finally reached a temp where it was happy, or my timing bump did it. But my test drive certainly went well. More black on WOT owing to advanced timing maybe, but reasonable egts and good get up and go.

So now I wait till tomorrow and a cold start. Sigh.

Thanks for the input @Loober . Good to know that you were thinking the same thing...

 

[Rigster]

Bing bing!

Are you watching my shop by chance? Lol. I did just that this afternoon. ..

So I started by replacing a few more hoses. No change. Checked the timing and set it at 1.08. No change. (Temps are at about 10°C. )

Re bled at the injectors. Possibly a few bubbles? Hard to say... Very minimal. No real change. When I'd rev it, I'd get smoke and a stumble. Finally I decided to advance it from my mark, and see if there was a sweet spot. Very quickly it stopped smoking and stumbling at higher RPM. What I can't say for sure is if I fixed it... It was running while I was advancing the timing so I don't know if it finally reached a temp where it was happy, or my timing bump did it. But my test drive certainly went well. More black on WOT owing to advanced timing maybe, but reasonable egts and good get up and go.

So now I wait till tomorrow and a cold start. Sigh.

Thanks for the input @Loober . Good to know that you were thinking the same thing...

I was going to say Phil, that revving the engine and getting a stumble or two when it is cold is completely normal. The only proper and good test is when the engine is warm. Advanced timing WILL help a bit when the engine is cold, and provide lower EGT once the engine is warm in my experience.

Hopefully you have found the "sweet spot" with the injection timing. From my recent work with new injectors, I needed to advance the timing as well. Let us know how the testing goes today, but I think you are on the right track. All the best my friend!

 

[JDM Journeys]

Well, we have a winner!

My stumble was after 10 mins of running, so I knew it wasn't part of the normal warm up cycle. Timing was at 1.08 but apparently at 245k kms, that's not enough advance? So as I said, yesterday I advanced it by ear from there, as it sat running.

Fast forward to this morning. 5°C. Startup was normal: little white smoke for 10 seconds or so, added some throttle to smooth things out... And then the smoke cleared. Ran smooth. Revs to 2k elicited nothing but noise and a little BLACK smoke as it climbed. All good.

Test drive around the block. No smoke. No pulsing. No hesitation.

Admittedly it's a little louder, as you'd expect. But the white smoke is all but gone. I may be able to bring it back a little bit, esp when weather warms up, but for now I'm going to drive it some, and see how it goes. I noticed the copper washer on the pump under the timing bolt is looking flattened too, so I'll add that to my list of hoses etc on my next order.

Thanks all for the feedback. Sometimes talking it through is just the help one needs...

Now I can go back to the fun stuff. And a new addition arrived yesterday, so I'm anxious to start on it.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Took it to work. All good. Took it on a date-night. Still good! Yes, a little noisier with timing advanced, but EGT's are good, starts are white-smoky for 10 seconds (at 0 celsius) and then none, black smoke levels are low to none. I may bring it back a tiny bit, but for now I'm going to run it as is.

So, back to fun stuff! Moving to the front for a change. After being back ordered since boxing day, my new compressor finally arrived.

It is the CKMA24 model, which is faster due to the yellow sticker.

My headlight washers have been non-op since I got the truck, and my winter/wet drives are few and far between, so out came the jug/pump, and it looks to be a nice place to mount the compressor. Protected behind the headlight, away from the exhaust heat, and there's a wall with factory captive nuts to use where the HL-washer jug just vacated...

CAD template first (cardboard aided design)

Then it was time to precisely shape and mould some exotic materials into a custom damped compressor mounting base. But I got lazy, and put the grinder to some steel sheet... Here it is, temporarily bolted in place. More massaging needed in this pic. And of course holes to mount the compressor base to it.

Then onto the paint booth... er... table. (about time to spray the vertical pieces for my rear cargo area too, so they joined the party.)

While the paint was drying, I attempted to discern what those crazy Aussies had cooked up with that wiring harness. Man alive. Having parts of the air locker harness branching off here and there made it more complicated than my application demanded, but someday...? Anyways, once I deciphered the 24 volt hookup witchcraft, I put all the wires temporarily in their proper places, threw the switch, and managed to get the compressor to make some noise. It even hissed at me! Saucy thing!

Next step will be running fat wires through tiny orifices, and making a home for the switch, in the center console. But at least I've got a good idea how to put it all together now, and it should be pretty easy to bolt to my mounting plate. Then I just need to decide how to route the air line. I'd like to be able to access the quick connect without raising the hood, but we'll see.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Speedo is rumbling and grumbling, especially in the cold. Time to attempt a fix. But its -20C outside, so I'm starting with the cluster, and its now inside the house. Going to try some tips from @EscapeWagon62 's excellent thread from his 60 series, referenced here:

FJ62 Speedometer Noise - Disassemble, Clean , Swap WITH PHOTOS

Ive been chasing noise in my FJ62 speedometer. Replaced the cable, lubed where the cable enters the speedo but the fluttering noise still existed. I disassembled, cleaned and eventually realized that the noise was coming from the speed cup (magnet) which isn’t serviceable as far as I know. (I...

forum.ih8mud.com

Also, giant shoutout to whoever suggested two spoons to pull the speedo needle. Can't find the reference now, but it worked brilliantly! SPOON man!
(Yes, the speedo needle wrapped around and snapped off. The piece was resting in the bottom. And no, I wasn't actually going THAT fast).

EDIT: @coldtaco spoons FTW! Thanks again!

 

[AirheadNut]

My speedometer has been complaining about the cold too, but I'm pretty sure (perhaps just hopeful?) most of the noise is coming from the cable down along the transmission tunnel. I tried lubricating it with an 18-ga needle oiler but was unsuccessful; the cable really needs to be removed to properly lube it. Really hoping I don't have to tear into my cluster, but if I do I'll know where to come for info. Best of luck fixing it!

 

[FJ73Texas]

I had a jumpy needle with a lot of noise in my HZJ77. Replacing the speedometer cable that goes from the transmission to the cluster with a new OEM cable fixed the problem. Not a fun job.