Official 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HD-FTE and 1HZ BEB thread

[Greg_B]

Think it would be good to have pictures, tech data and thoughts corralled into one thread so here goes.

When I get to changing the BEB's at 150,000kms I'll post as well.

Idea is:

Year of vehicle (might not be relevant if not OE install)
Model of engine (while much more rare then 1HD-T it would be good to get the data)
Block Number (1HD-T had a pump/injector washer/piston bowl/return fuel line change late 1992)
Injection Pump Number (as above)
Picture of BEB's listed #1 to #6 (1 front to 6 rear)

If you have posted up photos of bearings in the past it would be helpful if you can edit you post with block/pump number.

Thread on pump numbers and date of change 1HD-T: 1HD-T: What's the difference between these two fuel injector part numbers?

Thread on block numbers 1HD-T: HD-T Serial Number Dates (motor number)

hth's
gb

 

[Greg_B]

There's been lots of discussion on various threads in this section throughout the years. I'll attempt to reflect it in this post so reserve it to edit and add information.

Theory's and ideas have been discussed from oil cavitation to combustion dynamics to bearing composition.
- Good discussion and details on the 1HZ 1HD-T 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE family of engines.

It would be interesting to see block/injection pump numbers with the bearing pictures, as late in 1992 Toyota changed the thickness of the injector washers, injection pump number, piston combustion bowl change and installed a larger fuel return line.

I'll continue linking a bunch of threads with bearing pictures to this 2nd post to collect it all in one spot.

- Discussion on sourcing and replacement bearing brands such as ACL, OEM and Tahio bearings.

- 217500 HDJ81 BEB pitted BEB's Replaced this weekend. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bebs-replaced-this-weekend.1242706/#post-13846385

- 173000 1992 HDJ81 BEB's - all okay BEB bolts question. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/beb-bolts-question.1251749/

-195k miles 1990 HJD81 BEB - pitted Another BEB Post. Pics & Questions - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/another-beb-post-pics-questions.1224138/

- Thread with four sets of bearing pictures, 1HD-T ACL replacements at 70,000kms, 1HZ believe OEM at 135,000kms, 1HD-T OEM at 155,000kms, 1HD-T believe OEM at 210,000kms. None showed pitting. No block/pump numbers ACL BEB photo after 70,000 kms

- Thread with 1HD-T OEM at 190,000kms with pitting on a couple. No block/pump number. BEB replacement

- Thread with wide ranging good discussion on possible causes. 1HD-T replacement ACL bearings at 150,000kms minor pitting, 1HD-FTE over 200,000kms OEM look fine, 1HD-T 140,000kms ACL replacements with minor pitting. No block/pump number references: ACL rod bearings after 150k kms.

- Wide ranging thread with good discussion on oils, filters and possible causes. 1st HD-T pics are gone, but comments of pitting. 1HD-T 117,000kms OEM some wear, 1HD-T 400,000kms suspected OEM bears major craters. No block/pump numbers: BEB's JUST IN TIME?

- Thread with 1HD-T 184,000 miles, OEM bearings one showing pitting. No block/pump number: BEB just observations

- Reference to an HZ being good, an HZ in a 73 having pitting and photos of a 1HD-T with 75,000kms on OEM bearings with some pitting. No block/pump numbers: 1hdt BEBs

- Reference to 150K miles unknown motor bearings okay, pic's 1HD-T minor pits, reference to 1HD-FT 50,000kms No6 craters, pic 1HD-T 114,000kms OEM bearings pitting, pics 1HD-T 110,000kms 1994 pitting: 1HDT Big End Bearings

- 1991 HDJ81 with 132K Kms My 1HD-T Big End (Rod) Bearings pics.

- 1HD-T 170K Miles BEB pics with one showing slight delam: 1HDT BEB Photos

- 1992 1HD-T 260,000kms on replacement BEB's: 260,000kms on Replacement BEB's


From the lcool site: 1HD-T big end bearings and Photos of the actual bearings that have been removed.

gb

 

[1HaytchZed]

Great idea!

I'll be sending my new BEBs for a Swain Tech Poly-Moly (PPM) coating before I replace, roughly ~170k kms.
I'm still trying to find exactly how to tackle this replacement, some members brought up the risk of damaging the crank journals if not careful.

 

[2fpower]

Well, this thread came along at an amazing time. Have a good friend that just moved from US to NZ and is looking for a 73 series. He found this one, a 1991, that is non-turbo, 4.2 L, 6 cylinder, so is this a 1HZ??

His question is should he pass and wait for a 73 with a turbo engine? Having never driven any of these, hard for me to give any advice.

Thanks,

 

[Greg_B]

Well, this thread came along at an amazing time. Have a good friend that just moved from US to NZ and is looking for a 73 series. He found this one, a 1991, that is non-turbo, 4.2 L, 6 cylinder, so is this a 1HZ??

His question is should he pass and wait for a 73 with a turbo engine? Having never driven any of these, hard for me to give any advice.

Thanks,

I’ve never had one so can’t speak from experience however the 1HZ has a great many fans. AFIAK The 73’s were all 1HZ’s so unless turbo’s or swapped to a 1HD-T they are all IDI HZ’s. The 74 will be the 13BT (DI turbo).

Really hoping to keep this thread to BEB tech and discussion.

hth’s
gb

 

[franklin40]

i have a 1991 1HDT that has roughly 500 000km on it. it was swapped into my truck (1989 fj62) for me almost three years ago so i only know if it’s history these three years. as far as i now the oil pan hadn’t been off. i figured as preventative maintenance i should change them. the job is quite easy actually. i drained my oil three days before pulling the pan. it’s still a messy job but i just had cardboard down on the floor and the truck up on axle stands

next was removing the bracing between the tranny and engine block so you can get at the pan. remove the pan bolts and use a bottle jack on the frame rail and a piece of wood on the pan. gentle increase of pressure will peel it off without damage.

the connecting rods are right there. i used a breaker bar because they are tight!! this it the kind of bolt you will encounter so have the right socket. i started with the rods that were bottom dead center.

i used this socket. it’s a 12mm socket with a star type pattern. not torx but not a normal hex either. i think it’s called a spine type socket.

with the connecting rod cap off and the crank at the bottom of the stroke the valves should be open so it’s actually quite easy to just push the piston up in the cylinder and slide the bearing out. replace the on in the cap too and pull the piston back down. you don’t need to turn the crank at all while the rod is disconnected so no fear of damaging the crank journal. just be careful pulling the piston back down. install new bolts with a little oil under the flange and as per FSM torque each to 27ft/lbs. mark the bolt head to the front of the engine with a paint pen and turn 90 degrees more. i used the breaker bar again. it does feel like you’re going to break something but trust it. it won’t break.

use a 32 mm socket on the crank nut and slowly turn the engine over until the next rod it bottom dead center and repeat. once you’ve confirmed that all are tight replace the oil pan. clean the surfaces well and use this stuff to seal it. i’ve used it on a few oil pans and it’s amazing!! expensive but worth the seal you get.

refill with oil and you’re done. i’m not planning on changing them ever 100 000km like some people say. ill do an oil analysis from now as suggested by some people here on mud.

my bearings looked like this. no.6 is top. no.1 is bottom of the photo

only a little pitting on the bottom of number two

 

[roscoFJ73]

His question is should he pass and wait for a 73 with a turbo engine?

There are no turbo models in these years 90-

 

[Greg_B]

@franklin40 thanks for posting up the detail and information. Wish I could find the photos on mine when I did them. Mine is a 2nd gen 1HD-T from the block and injection pump numbers and I don't recall any standout pitting either.

Those bearings look a lot better then a number I have seen in person (or as referenced in the link above) so that is great! What brand name bearings did you use?

I used that FIPG to ensure a durable seal (had housing corrosion on the mating surfaces) when I rebuilt my rear locker mechanism.

gb

 

[franklin40]

i used oem toyota bearings

 

[franklin40]

one question i have i haven’t been able to find a definitive answer to is how to determine what size bearings to use. i bought standard bearings and they seem to fit well. i’ve read that it’s best to remove the bearing and make a measurement and then order each bearing to match? is that a real thing? i haven’t run mine yet but want to make sure i haven’t installed the wrong part before running it. 4wheel auto said they had “standard” and oversize. not a variety of different ones. any light on the topic would be appreciated. i tried finding some plastigauge before doing the job but couldnt find any so just installed them with a bit of faith. now i’m questioning after a bit more reading

 

[sailor]

120,000 ks on these Taiho's Delo 400 15/40 and toyota oil filters. 1991 HDJ81

 

[Greg_B]

@sailor thanks for posting this info. Is this a recent BEB check and change?

@franklin40 I am remiss to suggest you will be fine as the OEM bearings come Mark 2 to Mark 6. What numbers are on your old OEM bearings? I hope some more knowledgeable folk post up to give advice. I can add that on the few 1HD-T and 1HZ engines I have done I plastigauged all and all spec'd okay with standard aftermarket replacement bearings (using ACL). Have not seen anyone post up that bearings spec'd a different size (yet) during this process.

hth's
gb

 

[sailor]

No 2 years back we had to tear into the motor for a stuck piston ring/ broken piston land. The 'while we are here itis' set in so we did the whole enchilada...

I did the BEB when I got the truck in '08. Actually did a huge preventative service - drove it from the dock in New West to John and Philip's shop...

 

[franklin40]

so i thought i had oem bearings. they apparently aren’t. they are tiaho bearings which i don’t know much about. like acl they seem to only have one standard size. i’m trying to get a hold of my toyota guys. i have size 3 bearings that came out so i thought i’d put the exact ones back in. now the question comes that if acl has one size and they seem to be the “upgrade” how important would it be to change the standard tiaho ones i have. i want to put what’s best in for longevity toyota has five standard sizes and you can fine out what ones to use by adding the umbers on the crank and conrods as per the fsm or by replacing by the exact bearing number. if i’m going to change the ones i have should i get oem or acl?

 

[Greg_B]

Taiho R707A STD? I believe those are the ones I have on the shelf for when I do the BEB's next. They would be the same Taiho's in the photos above at 120,000kms I would think. As mentioned, I have not seen a post from anyone on this site where aftermarket std size plastigauged out of spec "yet".

hth's
gb

 

[franklin40]

yes those are the ones. i might leave them in then and just do some oil analysis every 100k to see if there’s any problem. i don’t want to change them if there’s no problem with these specific bearings. i’ve tried getting a hold of the guys that sold them to me but they’re closed over the holidays so i can’t pass on their recommendations. cheers.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Do you have the FSM?

What numbers are punched on the crank, and conrods?

The OEM factory machining tolerance from #1, #2, #3 crank journal is quite small. From 1-3 is 0.012mm difference in crank journal diameter.
Conrod tolerance is similar, with 0.048mm from loosest to tightest

If you took the loosest conrod, put it with the smallest crank journal, a #3 bearing is most likely going to fall within the Goldilocks range.

Toyota's range of bearing sizes lets them assemble engines to very close tolerances. They do the same with the 1HD-T head gaskets. In the factory, they use a range of 5 different hea gasket thicknesses, but only make three sizes available as replacement parts. Aftermarket only produces three thickness too.

 

[mudgudgeon]

 

[franklin40]

yeah i have a fsm. #1 crank and #2 on the conrod. bearing was a #3 bearing which matches how the fsm says to size it if you can’t see the number on the bearing. i just have a hard time seeing how the acl bearings (or the tiaho bearings fornthst matter) that are one std size would be an upgrade from the perfectly sized toyota bearing unless it’s based purely on better metals used in the bearing

 

[mudgudgeon]

It comes down to acceptable tolerances.
Looking at the FSM, and your crank and conrod sizes, you're right in the middle of the OEM assembly tolerances.
STD aftermarket bearings, are going to be sized for a goldilocks fit.

Looking at the first snapshot from the FSM, they show a maximum oil clearance of 0.10mm, which is way above what the FSM says to shoot for with the plastigauge.

Given the size of your crank and conrod journals, and the condition of the bearings you removed, I'd throw the STD Tiaho in and forget them.