1HDT Big End Bearings

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I replaced my Big ends last week as precaution however when I took the old ones out, they were perfect, so it doesn't seem like the big end problem happens to all the 1HDT / 1HD-FT engines. My engine has nearly 150K miles on it.

For anyone who wants to do it, it was a pretty easy job, took just over 3 hours start to finish.

I got at them by running the front of the cruiser on ramps, then up the car on the front crossmember with a jack and a piece of fence post. This got me the clearance to remove the sump - the steering armas get in the way otherwise.

Only thing I wish I had was a quick wrench to undo the sump bolts as it's a bit tiring upside down with a ratchet and long bar.

Also used the fuel pump pulley bolt to turn over the engine to get at each of the bearings in turn and drop that piston down to BDC - removed the timing belt cover to get at it. Used this because it's easier to get at than the crankshaft pulley.

Also changed all the injectors as well as the engine has a bit of life behind it, runs quite a bit smoother now - even though it wasn't rough to start with.
 

crushers

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i agree, not all the HDT will have this problem but, for me, this is preventive maintainence for the trucks i sell...
i guess i look at it, better to spend $600 now than try and find a new crank and conecting rod and bearings if a bearing should delaminate...(plus a tow bill)
 
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did you use OEM bearings or ACL?

I am considering doing my BEBs on my 1HZ before i turbo it. how much to the bearings cost??
 

crushers

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VTCruiser said:
did you use OEM bearings or ACL?

I am considering doing my BEBs on my 1HZ before i turbo it. how much to the bearings cost??
i use ACL from Dan at 4wheel they are about $65 for the set...
cheers
 
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Will do Wayne, just ordering up 4 more sets.

Sheldon also got my last 80 series knuckle rebuild kit.

These low milage rigs usually are not showing knuckle bearing wear and only need a service, from my first expierence.

Gotta crawl under my new rig and get this job done, looks pretty strait forward, just kind akward laying on your back and torqueing those bearings down.

When I do the bearings I do the torque wrench first and mark each bolt with green metal marker. Then when I do the 90degree pull I mark each bolt in red, just in case you get called away or just plain forget.

That 90 degree pull still freaks me out how easy it is to turn, feels like your stripping the bolt.


Rob
 
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VTCruiser said:
did you use OEM bearings or ACL?

I am considering doing my BEBs on my 1HZ before i turbo it. how much to the bearings cost??
Got a set for £48 from a company called Milner Off road.

Didn't take any pictures, because to be honest it's all self explanatory when doing it, when you get the car up on ramps up you can see all the sump bolts, and all you need to do is jack up the car on the front cross member whil it is on the ramps to get the extra 2 inches of clearance to remove the sump. After that it is just a case of undoing the bearing caps one at a time, removing the bearing shells - the ones on the con rod side just slide out of the cap, when refitting, the shells only fit one way and it is pretty obvious, they have a knock out to fit into a recess in the shell. Top ones just slide round the crankshaft journal and pull down the con rod.

It was also pretty difficult underneath to get a picture without it being blurred as I couldn't get far enough away to focus with my digital camera.

I agree the second stage of tightening the bolts is a bit of a hard one, need a long bar and a bit of bravery, however you want to to cylinder head bolts on the 2L, 69nm torque then 90 degrees then 90 degrees again, feels like you are going to snap the bolts or break your tools before it's done, plus all this with a star top bolt - would much prefer a proper hex bolt and hex socket to do it, would feel more secure.
 
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Radd Cruisers said:
I ususally sell them for about 40.00 a set, better do some catch up on pricing. Sheldon, are ya lurking, did you install yours yet?
Rob
Hi Rob. Yes, and that engine ended up getting sold. Just did another (The HD-T with H55F combo), with just the beginning indications of delamination on two, and as part of our process have a 1HD-T, and 1HZ-T scheduled for doing at some point soon.

All ACL's have plasti-gauged to spec so far.

VT, for the price of the bearings, I would do your 1HZ before turboing.

hth's

gb
 
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I don't wanna get you going wayne, but big end bearings are those main bearings? why doesn't 3B ever need big end bearings?
 

crushers

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the BEB are the conecting rod bearing at the crank end.
the problem seems to be the material used for the bearings in the HDT.
cheers
 
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Greg_B said:
Hi Rob. Yes, and that engine ended up getting sold. Just did another (The HD-T with H55F combo), with just the beginning indications of delamination on two, and as part of our process have a 1HD-T, and 1HZ-T scheduled for doing at some point soon.

All ACL's have plasti-gauged to spec so far.

VT, for the price of the bearings, I would do your 1HZ before turboing.

hth's

gb

OK, its just inventory right????

I never get attached to a truck anymore, its gonna get sold eventually.

Also with ya on the plasti gauge, I check each bearing. Course I just torque, need need to 90 and 90.

Also use the rubber gloves so not to contaminate the bearing shell.

Rob
 
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i have read up a little on the pasti-gauge process, but is it something that can easily done in a parking lot? or am i better off getting my bearing numbers and ordering OEM?
 
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VTCruiser said:
i have read up a little on the pasti-gauge process, but is it something that can easily done in a parking lot? or am i better off getting my bearing numbers and ordering OEM?

Easily a parking lot process, stuff looks like dental floss.

Put it in the bearing, squish it, pull it apart measure the plasti gauge with the case it comes in.

Once you see the stuff you will get it, very simple.

Remember rubber gloves when handling the bearings and your good to go.


Rob
 
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isn't that needless to say kinda hurtin? knowing the disadvantage, what are the benfits of owning an HDT over other LC diesels, that you don't have to worry about changing main bearings in? Or is this something everyone figured out after you guys bought the rigs?
 
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Eric Winkworth said:
isn't that needless to say kinda hurtin? knowing the disadvantage, what are the benfits of owning an HDT over other LC diesels, that you don't have to worry about changing main bearings in? Or is this something everyone figured out after you guys bought the rigs?
its more of a precautionary thing. There are plenty of 1HDTs (even more 1HZs) that don't have any problems, you just don't hear about them. I was aware of the issue before the swap, but its under $100 for the parts and something I can do, so why not? Plus, later model and aftermarket bearing won't have the same problems. As i understand, it was a bad bearing batch, not a design flaw.


benefits? Boost, smoothness, and future availabilty of parts. :)

EDIT: Thanks for the info Radd. Finally, where can i get the plasti-gauge and ACL bearings?
 

crushers

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Eric Winkworth said:
isn't that needless to say kinda hurtin? knowing the disadvantage, what are the benfits of owning an HDT over other LC diesels, that you don't have to worry about changing main bearings in? Or is this something everyone figured out after you guys bought the rigs?
smooth POWER. fuel efficient, QUIET... did i say POWER?
 

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