Well I did the beb's this week and the results are a bit dusturbing. I have read a lot of posts and havn't really seen any this bad, let me now what you think (front on the left)
BEB's JUST IN TIME?
- Thread starter northernrighty
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didn't look like any chunks were missing- I still have mine- all were good except 1 which was worse than yours.
Glad you changed 'em?
Glad you changed 'em?
- Thread starter
- #3
pics don't dp the depth of the holes justice. I was surprised the one in the last pisture wasn't at the way through, it was deep!
I have seen worse but good you changed them.... How many K are on your rig
Btw did you ever get my PM
Btw did you ever get my PM
Are these stock Crankshaft main brgs ? or replacement aftermarket brgs your showing ?
Reason I ask is there is no copper inlay , that is normally the tell-tail on euro engines of the early years
- 1993, after that there just steel backing and brg material till now , No Longer Used = Junk Bic engines.
4.2 engine an eater of these ? seeing someone posted after 100k , its about to puke !!
VT
Reason I ask is there is no copper inlay , that is normally the tell-tail on euro engines of the early years
- 1993, after that there just steel backing and brg material till now , No Longer Used = Junk Bic engines.
4.2 engine an eater of these ? seeing someone posted after 100k , its about to puke !!
VT
- Thread starter
- #6
these are the original bearings and there is 230kkm. VT if you search you read all about the bebs on the 1HD-T.
Ya , I sorta did when I was looking for a project.
Under designed ...1HD-t Id say.
My cars , Gas turbo pot has 380K and the Non T has 450Km on the clock with the same inner fixings. Oldest thing is the driver. All of the engines that are cast bottom ends had brgs that were a seven layer build up. Copper was just before crank to brg steel kissed.
Pitted Brgs were also a tell-tail of poor grounding / electrical something. Huge gen sets , marine more prevalent .T
Under designed ...1HD-t Id say.
My cars , Gas turbo pot has 380K and the Non T has 450Km on the clock with the same inner fixings. Oldest thing is the driver. All of the engines that are cast bottom ends had brgs that were a seven layer build up. Copper was just before crank to brg steel kissed.
Pitted Brgs were also a tell-tail of poor grounding / electrical something. Huge gen sets , marine more prevalent .T
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the delamination has started, i have seen worse on vehicles with much lower mileage ...
it is a crap shoot, some don't show any wear at all and then there are those that tore out the bottom end.
i would say good thing you did them.
it is a crap shoot, some don't show any wear at all and then there are those that tore out the bottom end.
i would say good thing you did them.
It's not a design flaw, its material flaw... For some reasons not clear to me the bearing material was changed and it resulted to pitting as shown on pics, however on earlier hdj80's they still used to the old bearing material and they suffered no BEB problems... Later they however switched back to the old bearing material and *poof* BEB problems disappeared...
f'sure Wayne, definitely glad it got done!
(wonder whatever happened to that 80 in your yard that had the blown motor cuz of it...sh**ty!)..
actually, i wonder if there's anyone out there (at least jdm in canada) that actually GOT their engine rebuilt b/c of a blown bottom end?! or did these unfortunate guys just $wap motor$?
(wonder whatever happened to that 80 in your yard that had the blown motor cuz of it...sh**ty!)..
actually, i wonder if there's anyone out there (at least jdm in canada) that actually GOT their engine rebuilt b/c of a blown bottom end?! or did these unfortunate guys just $wap motor$?
OK so the replacement Brgs are a true fix from there original installed from factory assembly?
After reading and seeing Daves 2000 (thanks Sir) pix (swarf) Long shot in my eyes , but were all due to our opinions,i can't say that swarf is the killer of those brgs. I have seen swarf damage , from steel and cast , Very radial .
If the brgs that get replaced from the original straight aluminum style as they look here to a 7 style layer aftermarket style and last , then im leaning towards dry start galling of the aluminum pits.
VT.
After reading and seeing Daves 2000 (thanks Sir) pix (swarf) Long shot in my eyes , but were all due to our opinions,i can't say that swarf is the killer of those brgs. I have seen swarf damage , from steel and cast , Very radial .
If the brgs that get replaced from the original straight aluminum style as they look here to a 7 style layer aftermarket style and last , then im leaning towards dry start galling of the aluminum pits.
VT.
A dry start could be a valid point with many mechanics fitting non OE oil filters that do not have the anti drain valve fitted so there is a period of time from starting to effective lubrication but many (I also include myself here) have a full service history from the dealer so it would be reasonable to assume the correct filters were fitted during servicing.
regards
Dave
Well after a long research read , and getting my head straight (got fogged Up) the Mains aren't being changed , and only the throws / rod big ends ? if the mains brgs looked like that on the lowers , then Dry starts for sure(much less load on lwr mains cuz of gravity and the oil grove) , As with the Mr Daves 2000 line "fitting non OE oil filters that do not have the anti drain valve fitted so there is a period of time from starting to effective lubrication but many (I also include myself here) have a full service history from the dealer so it would be reasonable to assume the correct filters were fitted during servicing."
The OEM yota factory filters might have internal check valves , but there CRAP.
A filter that is pure yota , on the 2F that i tossed away , would always be dry after its restart in 20mins plus. I know cuz i did an Oil change in San-Fran at a dealership (werk-Perks) with an OEM yota filter coming off . That filter was thread down / seal at the bottom and the can pointed UP. Me thinking that , If I make a mess with this UGLY truck in a immaculate dealership shop ,Im going to be toast and reminded !!
So i have catch and lots of wipers ready , The can / Filter was MT, All ready drained back the oil from the top to the oil stick level in the pan..
SO DRY START , even with a Yota oem filter. Proved it again here with my 3B and a real OPG (oil pressure gauge) . timing of pressure with OEM is poor.
I switch to a euro filter that i researched , timing is 3 bar + pressure in 4 seconds after crank , stock OEM yota is up to 12 seconds after a hot shut down and 3 hrs later , same scenario with my euro style filter 4 seconds.
Also another gent committed on his filter on his diesel, that the can points upwards and the thread is at the bottom for easy and clean oil changes ..I asked because my filter is thread/seal up , can hangs , less to drain and refill.
BAD , dry starts ..is the reason im seeing , and Aluminum is a very poor brg material without oil film (thats from great oil) and the brg is never really touching the crankshaft running oil is in-between, and great oil leaves a film.
alum brgs that are shell type are poor , machined in head / line-bored and polished are much more forgiving , due to thickness / size ...
I would make sure that the replacement brg is of the layer style build up.
well that was an evening
VT
The OEM yota factory filters might have internal check valves , but there CRAP.
A filter that is pure yota , on the 2F that i tossed away , would always be dry after its restart in 20mins plus. I know cuz i did an Oil change in San-Fran at a dealership (werk-Perks) with an OEM yota filter coming off . That filter was thread down / seal at the bottom and the can pointed UP. Me thinking that , If I make a mess with this UGLY truck in a immaculate dealership shop ,Im going to be toast and reminded !!
So i have catch and lots of wipers ready , The can / Filter was MT, All ready drained back the oil from the top to the oil stick level in the pan..
SO DRY START , even with a Yota oem filter. Proved it again here with my 3B and a real OPG (oil pressure gauge) . timing of pressure with OEM is poor.
I switch to a euro filter that i researched , timing is 3 bar + pressure in 4 seconds after crank , stock OEM yota is up to 12 seconds after a hot shut down and 3 hrs later , same scenario with my euro style filter 4 seconds.
Also another gent committed on his filter on his diesel, that the can points upwards and the thread is at the bottom for easy and clean oil changes ..I asked because my filter is thread/seal up , can hangs , less to drain and refill.
BAD , dry starts ..is the reason im seeing , and Aluminum is a very poor brg material without oil film (thats from great oil) and the brg is never really touching the crankshaft running oil is in-between, and great oil leaves a film.
alum brgs that are shell type are poor , machined in head / line-bored and polished are much more forgiving , due to thickness / size ...
I would make sure that the replacement brg is of the layer style build up.
well that was an evening
VT
it wsn't the alloy bearigns in general that are the problem it was a bad batch of bearings that Toyota's engine supplie used.
the oiling system itself did not change.
if it was the oiling then the replacement bearings woudl also be wearing out.
the oiling system itself did not change.
if it was the oiling then the replacement bearings woudl also be wearing out.